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20x engine wear when cold - Do we all need block heaters?

gek

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Jeep Wrangler JL 20x engine wear when cold - Do we all need block heaters? {filename}
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Ramboy

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Did you neglect the truck and only change the oil every 40k miles?
Once a year regardless of mileage (1 year or 25k miles recommended). The latest change has been the same for 3 years now since I don’t use the truck as much as I used to. It’s still as clean as a whistle. Many people feel more comfortable changing out oil more often and I get that, but for me, my experience has been if you use a good quality synthetic like amsoil, protection is there. Changing out regular oil at regular intervals gives you fresh oil but the protection properties built into the product doesn’t change. I prefer robust protection over the “feel good” change every 5k. Just my $.02 worth.
 

yokramer

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Once a year regardless of mileage (1 year or 25k miles recommended). The latest change has been the same for 3 years now since I don’t use the truck as much as I used to. It’s still as clean as a whistle. Many people feel more comfortable changing out oil more often and I get that, but for me, my experience has been if you use a good quality synthetic like amsoil, protection is there. Changing out regular oil at regular intervals gives you fresh oil but the protection properties built into the product doesn’t change. I prefer robust protection over the “feel good” change every 5k. Just my $.02 worth.
Ahh you did regular maintenance so it wasnt some magic oil.
 

Ramboy

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This.

The problem with cold starts is that all of the oil has draned away from the wear surfaces. Temperature is only a very minor influence.
Yup. That’s where Amsoil excels, regardless of downtime or temp. Amsoil coats all internal parts and protects during the most important wear and tear situations; during startup before the oil pressure can built up to the normal pressure and flow.
 

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Reducing cold start engine wear would mean that the rings, bearings, camshaft journals would last longer.

But that would make no difference to the life of the engine because other components fail first [elephant in the room shuffles slightly].
 

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Ramboy

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Ahh you did regular maintenance so it wasnt some magic oil.
Who said it was magic? In my humble opinion, it’s simply the best the industry has to offer; you can have your own opinion. My point is, few people would allow their vehicle to “endure” extended drain intervals. All I’m saying is in my experience the vehicle excels during the extended drain periods. FYI, one change of Amsoil ATF in the tranny and transfer case 30 years ago; no change since and yes I can pull out my tranny dipstick today and it will be cherry red; same as the day I put it in; same with the diffs. All I’m saying is I’m convinced and I’m just relaying my experience; people can do what they feel comfortable with.
 

grimmjeeper

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Who said it was magic? In my humble opinion, it’s simply the best the industry has to offer; you can have your own opinion. My point is, few people would allow their vehicle to “endure” extended drain intervals. All I’m saying is in my experience the vehicle excels during the extended drain periods. FYI, one change of Amsoil ATF in the tranny and transfer case 30 years ago; no change since and yes I can pull out my tranny dipstick today and it will be cherry red; same as the day I put it in; same with the diffs. All I’m saying is I’m convinced and I’m just relaying my experience; people can do what they feel comfortable with.
Jeep Wrangler JL 20x engine wear when cold - Do we all need block heaters? {filename}
 

alphawolff

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This.

The problem with cold starts is that all of the oil has draned away from the wear surfaces. Temperature is only a very minor influence.
it takes an incredibly long time in storage before the oil dries off the internal lubricating surfaces. depending on climate it could take up to a year before they "dry out"

back in the cash for clunkers day i'd hear of the old timers draining all the oil out of 4.0s and filling it with engine lock, and the fuckers would run for an hour at redline before they finally seized
 

grimmjeeper

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it takes an incredibly long time in storage before the oil dries off the internal lubricating surfaces. depending on climate it could take up to a year before they "dry out"

back in the cash for clunkers day i'd hear of the old timers draining all the oil out of 4.0s and filling it with engine lock, and the fuckers would run for an hour at redline before they finally seized
What that really means is that, while true that you get 20x the wear at startup, it's 20x such a small number that it isn't worth worrying about.

If the fees on my brokerage trades went up 20x, that would be significant. But if the fees were $0.01 on a $100,000 transaction, going to $0.20 is just noise.


Also, keep in mind that the real reason you get more wear at startup is that you haven't fully established the hydrostatic layer between the two pieces. Oil just sitting on the surface doesn't fully prevent contact for long. It takes a continuous flow of oil at pressure to keep that going. And it takes a second for the oil to start flowing when you first start the engine.

Some oils have additives (like zinc) that leave a sacrificial layer of deposits on the surface to wear away until the oil can get in and do its job.
 
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scorpionsix

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What that really means is that, while true that you get 20x the wear at startup, it's 20x such a small number that it isn't worth worrying about.

If the fees on my brokerage trades went up 20x, that would be significant. But if the fees were $0.01 on a $100,000 transaction, going to $0.20 is just noise.


Also, keep in mind that the real reason you get more wear at startup is that you haven't fully established the hydrostatic layer between the two pieces. Oil just sitting on the surface doesn't fully prevent contact for long. It takes a continuous flow of oil at pressure to keep that going. And it takes a second for the oil to start flowing when you first start the engine.

Some oils have additives (like zinc) that leave a sacrificial layer of deposits on the surface to wear away until the oil can get in and do its job.
"If the fees on my brokerage trades went up 20x, that would be significant. But if the fees were $0.01 on a $100,000 transaction, going to $0.20 is just noise."

Yeah well Fidelity and Schwab both recommend full synthetic oils and high octane fuel. They charge a lower fee to customers who follow this program.
 

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scorpionsix

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And what exactly ever happened with the E-Trade toddler, his phone and his app? All he wanted to do was trade
 

Dyolfknip74

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Who said it was magic? In my humble opinion, it’s simply the best the industry has to offer; you can have your own opinion. My point is, few people would allow their vehicle to “endure” extended drain intervals. All I’m saying is in my experience the vehicle excels during the extended drain periods. FYI, one change of Amsoil ATF in the tranny and transfer case 30 years ago; no change since and yes I can pull out my tranny dipstick today and it will be cherry red; same as the day I put it in; same with the diffs. All I’m saying is I’m convinced and I’m just relaying my experience; people can do what they feel comfortable with.
You have 30 year old fluids in there and its still bright red? I feel like if you drove it any more than 100kms that statement wouldn't be true. Oil breaks down with age.

I use Amsoil for my diffs but only because it gets delivered to my door and its easy filling with the bags. I am not too convinced they have created that superior of a lubricant, moreso when its marketed like an MLM.
 

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You have 30 year old fluids in there and its still bright red? I feel like if you drove it any more than 100kms that statement wouldn't be true. Oil breaks down with age.

I use Amsoil for my diffs but only because it gets delivered to my door and its easy filling with the bags. I am not too convinced they have created that superior of a lubricant, moreso when its marketed like an MLM.
https://wboil.com/comparison-testing.html
 

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