2018 JLU difficult to get into first gear.

[huskay]

W

Your clutch could have dropped a spring and it's lodging itself somewhere it shouldn't. I've had it happen on a couple vehicles.

what is really weird that it drives really good onroad, no issues at all. Its o ly this dead stop, could it still be a spring issue?

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[OrneryBear]

W


what is really weird that it drives really good onroad, no issues at all. Its o ly this dead stop, could it still be a spring issue?

well in that case, my experience says that if it shifts fine after that, it's less likely to be a dislodged spring.

 

[fdFifty]

Hello,
I am facing similar issue if someone can help me. When I am in dead stop, depress clutch, 1st, 3rd, 5th and R cant go in directly, 2nd 4th and 6th would go but not soo smooth. Never the less, if I try two times putting it into 1st, it would go into 1st gear the 2nd time.

Also what I noticed, the clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quickly once I depress clutch, I noticed wheels spin for a sec. Also what is weird, If I depress the clutch wait for like 3 seconds, I can go into first gear smoothly.

Any idea where to look at??

To me, most of that sounds like sounds like a hydraulic issue. Something like air in the system or perhaps a failing component causing the clutch to drag or not disengage correctly. I’d get it to a dealership if you can and have them look into it. The fact that it shifts ok in motion makes me think the cable adjustments are alright . Generally gear synchros will work better when you are in motion and can sort of cover up symptoms of a clutch that isn’t functioning properly.

 

[Canjeeper]

They do not have springs in the clutch plates anymore ,they use a spring in the flywheel to help dampen the shock . It is a problem with slave or master cylinder , or air in system . as stated .

 

[huskay]

They do not have springs in the clutch plates anymore ,they use a spring in the flywheel to help dampen the shock . It is a problem with slave or master cylinder , or air in system . as stated .

Im not sure but I think in my case I do? I have the centerforce dual friction on my car here is a photo. You can see disc at the back.

 

[Canjeeper]

ok i assumed you were stock . seem to be seeing alot of this problem lately with CF , if you have stock hydraulics might want to upgrade . if you have their newest edition , then you will need to bleed the air out, better . I hear it is a pain ? edit Did CF 's idea off breaking it in more ,not work out?

 

[Swisskidd]

Hello,
I am facing similar issue if someone can help me. When I am in dead stop, depress clutch, 1st, 3rd, 5th and R cant go in directly, 2nd 4th and 6th would go but not soo smooth. Never the less, if I try two times putting it into 1st, it would go into 1st gear the 2nd time.

Also what I noticed, the clutch doesnt seem to be disengaging quickly once I depress clutch, I noticed wheels spin for a sec. Also what is weird, If I depress the clutch wait for like 3 seconds, I can go into first gear smoothly.

Any idea where to look at??

Im not sure but I think in my case I do? I have the centerforce dual friction on my car here is a photo. You can see disc at the back.

As others have stated, the hydraulic system needs to be completely free of air. An insufficiently bled system will dis-engage the clutch with the pedal at the floor; causing potential drag by not fully disengaging the clutch. Shifts are hard / impossible to execute.

The synchros have the purpose to rev-match the gears the driver wants to mesh when shifting. With the clutch engaged in neutral (engine running), the input and cluster gear shaft in the transmission are rotating (not connected to output shaft). When depressing the clutch, the shafts and gears in the transmission start to slow down - the longer you wait between depressing the clutch and engaging first gear, the less force to the synchro is needed, to match the (still) reving first gear to the output shaft.

Assuming your actuating system is operating as intended, I would first start with a transmission fluid change, and see if that improves operations. (How many miles on the Wrangler?)

 

[Rogue321]

I'm still having issues with mine. Shop replaced slave cylinder and bleed the system. Didn't help.

Once in gear, if I don't release the clutch pedal, it will go in and out of 1st with ease. If I release the clutch pedal, and engage again, it is difficult to get in first.

I've found little nudge or even fully going into 2nd before going into first helps.

 

[grimmjeeper]

I'm still having issues with mine. Shop replaced slave cylinder and bleed the system. Didn't help.

Once in gear, if I don't release the clutch pedal, it will go in and out of 1st with ease. If I release the clutch pedal, and engage again, it is difficult to get in first.

I've found little nudge or even fully going into 2nd before going into first helps.

That could be the first sign of synchros going out.

 

[huskay]

As others have stated, the hydraulic system needs to be completely free of air. An insufficiently bled system will dis-engage the clutch with the pedal at the floor; causing potential drag by not fully disengaging the clutch. Shifts are hard / impossible to execute.

The synchros have the purpose to rev-match the gears the driver wants to mesh when shifting. With the clutch engaged in neutral (engine running), the input and cluster gear shaft in the transmission are rotating (not connected to output shaft). When depressing the clutch, the shafts and gears in the transmission start to slow down - the longer you wait between depressing the clutch and engaging first gear, the less force to the synchro is needed, to match the (still) reving first gear to the output shaft.

Assuming your actuating system is operating as intended, I would first start with a transmission fluid change, and see if that improves operations. (How many miles on the Wrangler?)

It has 40K miles

 

[Swisskidd]

It has 40K miles

I’d replace the trans fluid at this point.

 

[huskay]

I'm still having issues with mine. Shop replaced slave cylinder and bleed the system. Didn't help.

Once in gear, if I don't release the clutch pedal, it will go in and out of 1st with ease. If I release the clutch pedal, and engage again, it is difficult to get in first.

I've found little nudge or even fully going into 2nd before going into first helps.

You are having exactly what I am still facing. And is it OK while in motion to shift between all gears?

one point want to understand from you, when you depress clutch and put it directly 3rd or 5th do you face the same?

if you put can in 4Lo and depress clutch and quicky put into first, will car move a bit?

finally if you do a 2nd try to out it into first but clutch still depressed will it go in? Ot in your case never goes into 1st?

just trying to see what could be the issue and if we are facing exactly same symptoms

 

[Rogue321]

You are having exactly what I am still facing. And is it OK while in motion to shift between all gears?

one point want to understand from you, when you depress clutch and put it directly 3rd or 5th do you face the same?

if you put can in 4Lo and depress clutch and quicky put into first, will car move a bit?

finally if you do a 2nd try to out it into first but clutch still depressed will it go in? Ot in your case never goes into 1st?

just trying to see what could be the issue and if we are facing exactly same symptoms

No problems in motion

None of gears are easy to get into, but first is the worst. Sometimes it won't go unless I put it in another gear first. Once in first, if I keep the clutch pedal engaged, it goes in and out of all with ease.

I haven't experienced the vehicle moving a bit.


Once in gear and keeping the clutch pedal depressed, it will go in and out of all gears with ease.

 

[five9dak]

Your clutch is not disengaging all the way. Your synchros have also probably suffered damage since you kept using it in this state.

When you slow down and quickly go in and out of gear, the input shaft is going relatively slowly or doesnt have much time to accelerate to engine speed from the clutch drag.

When you have the clutch engaged longer while stopped, the input shaft is running at the engine speed, and the clutch drag is enough to keep it there, or significantly high. Too high and or too much torque transmitted for the synchro to slow back down.

The behavior you describe which makes you think it is not the clutch, indicates it is the clutch.

There may be a hydrualic and or mechanical wear reason for the lack of full disengagement. Either way, to take it down and inspect, you might as well replace as its high mileage, given you trouble, and you're paying labor for it to come apart either way. Hopefully the box doesnt need to rebuilt now too, for synchro damage.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

40k within the 60k powertrain warranty? Or does the the PW warranty not cover the trans/clutch?

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