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17x9.5 vs 17x8

Rkobel

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No- Toyo 35/12.50/C 59 lbs. the lightest 3 peak, 5 lbs lighter than 315/70/C KO2’s. The same as the 34’s (285/75/C). Heck 34/10.50 pizza cutter 55 lbs. 35/11.50/C 63 lbs . Are you looking at the 67 lb 315/70 that comes in D load ? C & E called 35/12.50, D called 315/70, essentially the same specs otherwise.
You’re right, I was looking at the load e which is 65lbs, load c is 59lb 👍🏻 much better. How light or heavy of a wheel would be desired as to not compromise the joints/axles?
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Rkobel

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To this, I’d say if you consider 35s, don’t do it halfway and regear to 4.56 or 4.88. For the carrier, the Teraflex hd combined with the mopar bracket worked good for me
Steph1 I appreciate the honest advice. Would you regear even with the torque of the 4xe the Willy’s offers? Without wanting to regear, would going with a 33”34” set up like the 285/75 and running the 17x8 or 17.8.5’s be the safer way to go?
 

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You’re right, I was looking at the load e which is 65lbs, load c is 59lb 👍🏻 much better. How light or heavy of a wheel would be desired as to not compromise the joints/axles?
Beyond my knowledge, but I keep it light, as evidenced by the $500 forged wheels to lose 10 lbs a corner. Unsprung weight is not your friend.
 
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2nd 392

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Steph1 I appreciate the honest advice. Would you regear even with the torque of the 4xe the Willy’s offers? Without wanting to regear, would going with a 33”34” set up like the 285/75 and running the 17x8 or 17.8.5’s be the safer way to go?
Get the tires and drive it for a while. I have never driven or rode in a 4xe. Does it not have 3.73’s ? The V8 with the same torque, 3.73’s pulled the 35’s effortlessly. I don’t know but suspect you will be well beyond “getting by” (like the higher geared 4 bangers do without regear), as also do the high torque diesels. With your lift you will likely be disappointed with less than 35’s, as you also will without 12.50’s on -12mm wheels, IMHO.
 
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Rkobel

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Get the tires and drive it for a while. I have never driven or rode in a 4xe. Does it not have 3.73’s ? The V8 with the same torque, 3.73’s pulled the 35’s effortlessly. I don’t know but suspect you will be well beyond “getting by” (like the higher geared 4 bangers do without regear), as also do the high torque diesels. With your lift you will likely be disappointed with less than 35’s, as you also will without 12.50’s on -12mm wheels, IMHO.
The Willy’s 4xe does have 3.73’s. It has a 2.0-liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine and is paired with 2 electric motors and a 400-volt 17-kWh battery pack to supposedly put out 375 hp and 470 lb-ft of torque. According to reviewers It can accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in about 6.0 seconds. This I have yet to try but I’d say pretty accurate 🛻 💨
One thing I do not want to be is disappointed with a smaller set-up and broke bs the larger set up I want, and still maybe broke 🤣 buy once cry once is some of the best advice I’ve learned. Ideally a 17x8.5 (or 17x9 IF NEEDED) with a 35/12.50 set up would be what I’d be happy with. I say 17x8.5 so I can keep the offset closer to -6 or -12.
 

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Rkobel

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People put way too much emphasis on weight. It doesn't have as much effect on the vehicle as one might think. Especially when you're only talking about a dozen pounds or less.

Get the tires that have the tread you want in the size you want. Let someone else worry about weight.
I’d definitely prefer the 35/12.50’s on a 17x8.5, ideally. I feel like there are more options with offset and BS I need at a more affordable price with 17x8.5 than with the 17x9. Plus the 17x8.5 give me an extra .5 inches of clearance (correct me if I’m wrong about that) and would mean I need less of a negative offset.
Don’t want to go with 33”or 34” and regret 😭 i think the weight per wheel and tire would only increase by 10-20lbs max, if that.
 

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The Willy’s 4xe does have 3.73’s. It has a 2.0-liter turbocharged 4 cylinder engine and is paired with 2 electric motors and a 400-volt 17-kWh battery pack to supposedly put out 375 hp and 470 lb-ft of torque. According to reviewers It can accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in about 6.0 seconds. This I have yet to try but I’d say pretty accurate 🛻 💨
One thing I do not want to be is disappointed with a smaller set-up and broke bs the larger set up I want, and still maybe broke 🤣 buy once cry once is some of the best advice I’ve learned. Ideally a 17x8.5 (or 17x9 IF NEEDED) with a 35/12.50 set up would be what I’d be happy with. I say 17x8.5 so I can keep the offset closer to -6 or -12.
Then you have homework to do finding light 8.5’s you like that come in -6 to 12. Now get to work, the wheel options to search are vast.

hey, have you not paid attention to weights, 35/12.50 AT3’s are only 8 lbs heavier than 285/70 KO2’s. ~the same as 285/75’s. Now get off the net and search . 😁
 

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I’d definitely prefer the 35/12.50’s on a 17x8.5, ideally. I feel like there are more options with offset and BS I need at a more affordable price with 17x8.5 than with the 17x9. Plus the 17x8.5 give me an extra .5 inches of clearance (correct me if I’m wrong about that) and would mean I need less of a negative offset.
Don’t want to go with 33”or 34” and regret 😭 i think the weight per wheel and tire would only increase by 10-20lbs max, if that.
As an engineer with a fair bit of OCD, I'm going to give you some advice that really comes from experience.

Don't overthink it.

Find the tires you like. Find some wheels you like. Being off a few millimeters in offset or heavier by a few pounds just doesn't matter that much. Not in the real world.

If the tires rub, adjust the bumpstops and/or steering stops. A few more pounds of unsprung weight isn't optimal but it's really hard to notice the difference in real world driving. Don't sweat the minutiae.
 

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Then you have homework to do finding light 8.5’s you like that come in -6 to 12. Now get to work, the wheel options to search are vast.

hey, have you not paid attention to weights, 35/12.50 AT3’s are only 8 lbs heavier than 285/70 KO2’s. ~the same as 285/75’s. Now get off the net and search . 😁
2nd 392 your knowledge and advice is greatly appreciated! You have steered me in the right direction and have given me great info to think about for the upcoming decisions 👍🏻 research will commence immediately. Fortunately I have some time to research deep as it’ll take me a few months to save up the 💰 but at least now my mind is made up and knows what it’s looking for! Cheers! 👍🏻
 

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As an engineer with a fair bit of OCD, I'm going to give you some advice that really comes from experience.

Don't overthink it.

Find the tires you like. Find some wheels you like. Being off a few millimeters in offset or heavier by a few pounds just doesn't matter that much. Not in the real world.

If the tires rub, adjust the bumpstops and/or steering stops. A few more pounds of unsprung weight isn't optimal but it's really hard to notice the difference in real world driving. Don't sweat the minutiae.
Grimmjeeper, I can always appreciate OCD type advice especially coming from an engineer, what more can I ask for 😁 I do feel more at ease going with the set up I actually want vs settling because of weights and millimeters. Thank you for your time and knowledge, it will be put to good use!
 

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2nd 392

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2nd 392 your knowledge and advice is greatly appreciated! You have steered me in the right direction and have given me great info to think about for the upcoming decisions 👍🏻 research will commence immediately. Fortunately I have some time to research deep as it’ll take me a few months to save up the 💰 but at least now my mind is made up and knows what it’s looking for! Cheers! 👍🏻
It will take you a few months to search all the wheel options out there :facepalm: Try to keep tires and wheels on the lighter end and as minimal negative offset that will work with your lift. The wheels I wanted were only in -1, I would have gotten up to +12 if available. The other top 2 tire choice was 9 lbs heavier, too much for my weight OCD. Don’t sweat the small sh!t, as long as it is small sh!t. 🍻

I didn’t spend *$2500 on wheels to lose *40 lbs, to get *36 back with tires. But without the new wheels and adding the heavier tires would be a *76 lb difference, no longer qualifying as small sh!t.
*including spare (this old guy has to lift) - 50 lbs less - 45 lbs back - 95 lb difference
 
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Steph1 I appreciate the honest advice. Would you regear even with the torque of the 4xe the Willy’s offers? Without wanting to regear, would going with a 33”34” set up like the 285/75 and running the 17x8 or 17.8.5’s be the safer way to go?
Not ideal, but the 4xe’s torque can get away with 285/75 no problem. But don’t be surprised that your electric range will be shorter due to the added stress of the bigger tires.
 

Rkobel

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Then you have homework to do finding light 8.5’s you like that come in -6 to 12. Now get to work, the wheel options to search are vast.

hey, have you not paid attention to weights, 35/12.50 AT3’s are only 8 lbs heavier than 285/70 KO2’s. ~the same as 285/75’s. Now get off the net and search . 😁
2nd 392 - so I got a little intense with the searching and thought I’d ask for your thoughts.

Factory Set-up:

Firestone Destination XT 255/70R17: ~50lb
Factory Jeep wheel 17x7.5: 21lb
Full set up with sensor is about 73lbs total.

Possible new set-up:

Toyo Open Country AT III 35/12.50R17LT: 59lbs
*I have found various 17x8 and 17x8.5 with average weight of ~26lbs.
Full new set up with sensors: ~ 87lbs

So I’m looking at a gain of about 12lbs per wheel/tire, and an overall net gain of 48lb (60lbs if including spare mounted on back)

Thoughts?
Appreciate the help sir 🫡
 

Rkobel

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As an engineer with a fair bit of OCD, I'm going to give you some advice that really comes from experience.

Don't overthink it.

Find the tires you like. Find some wheels you like. Being off a few millimeters in offset or heavier by a few pounds just doesn't matter that much. Not in the real world.

If the tires rub, adjust the bumpstops and/or steering stops. A few more pounds of unsprung weight isn't optimal but it's really hard to notice the difference in real world driving. Don't sweat the minutiae.
Grimmjeeper 👋🏻
Some of that engineer OCD would be much appreciated on the below:

Factory Set-up:

Firestone Destination XT 255/70R17: ~50lb
Factory Jeep wheel 17x7.5: 21lb
Full set up with sensor is about 73lbs total.

Possible new set-up:

Toyo Open Country AT III 35/12.50R17LT: 59lbs
*I have found various 17x8 and 17x8.5 with average weight of ~26lbs.
Full new set up with sensors: ~ 87lbs

So I’m looking at a gain of about 12lbs per wheel/tire, and an overall net gain of 48lb (60lbs if including spare mounted on back)

Thoughts?
 

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2nd 392 - so I got a little intense with the searching and thought I’d ask for your thoughts.

Factory Set-up:

Firestone Destination XT 255/70R17: ~50lb
Factory Jeep wheel 17x7.5: 21lb
Full set up with sensor is about 73lbs total.

Possible new set-up:

Toyo Open Country AT III 35/12.50R17LT: 59lbs
*I have found various 17x8 and 17x8.5 with average weight of ~26lbs.
Full new set up with sensors: ~ 87lbs

So I’m looking at a gain of about 12lbs per wheel/tire, and an overall net gain of 48lb (60lbs if including spare mounted on back)

Thoughts?
Appreciate the help sir 🫡
That’s light for 35’s, and no gate reinforcement needed. I wish the AT3’s were a couple pounds heavier with the rubber on the sidewall, oh well, they are a terrific tire. Do you have a Tazer or other to Lower the TPMS warning ? 30-32 psi is good but in the warm day,cold night time of year frequent 28 lb morning low tire warnings, not when set down to 25 lbs. I would try 28 psi if not for the TPMS, but I don’t want to shut it off.
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