17x9.5 vs 17x8

[Rkobel]

I just took a close look, you could likely go 8.5” -12mm, 4.25” BS without going (or slightly) past the extensions with 12.50’s. 285’s are just ~11.50’s tread, but fit for 12.50’s, you will probably want to upgrade in the (near) future.

psssst- with the lift 285/70 or even 285/75 will look too small . The factory 33’s looked small on mine with the factory 1.5” lift. Save money in the long run and get light 35/12.50’s. I got 59 lb Toyo AT3, the lightest 35/12.50 - 315/70
3 peak. They have proven to be a terrific tire. … do also consider wheel weight when choosing. My 8.5” wheel 35/12.50 combo is 2 lbs lighter than the factory 7.5” 285/70 combo
Edit- brain fart, if your Willys doesn’t have the wide axles no sweat with the -12-19 mm. Sorry, I don’t know the axle width difference.

Correct - the Willy’s does NOT have the wide axles like the Rubi. Therefore the -12 to -19 was what I was looking into with the 17x9 wheels.
If you don’t mind me asking, what 17x8.5 wheel did you go with? And which particular 35” tired did you end up going with that ended up being lighter than the factory set up? If I can keep the new set up around the same weight or lighter than the factory wheel and tire set up that would be fantastic

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[2nd 392]

Thanks for the info. I’d love to run 35” right out of gate. So if I were to run the 35/12.50/17, would a 17x9 be the way to go over a 17x8 or 17.8.5? And would the 4.5” BS still be enough to clear all components of Metalcloak 2.5” lift with that tire size? The metalcloak rep said that the 2.5 lift was designed to accommodate 35” tires - but obviously finding the right wheel size/backspace and offset with the right tire/size is key. My thought would be the 17x9 wheel with -12 offset/~4.5 BS, with a 35/12.50/17 or 315/70r17. (But would going with a lightly more negative offset and lower BS be safer with the larger/wider tires?) thanks again all, I truly appreciate your input!

I’m not knowledgeable on Willys axles, but I think they went to the wide axles in 24. They say 4.5” BS is sufficient, but if you have the narrow axles maybe go -19mm for 4.25” on 9” wheels. But options vary, -1mm was the only offset on my 8.5’s. Also does your 23 have the high clearance fenders for the XR extensions ? You could use input from Willys owners to verify.
I thought I was being helpful until I realized you have a 23 Willys that leaves these questions to be answered.

 

[2nd 392]

Correct - the Willy’s does NOT have the wide axles like the Rubi. Therefore the -12 to -19 was what I was looking into with the 17x9 wheels.
If you don’t mind me asking, what 17x8.5 wheel did you go with? And which particular 35” tired did you end up going with that ended up being lighter than the factory set up? If I can keep the new set up around the same weight or lighter than the factory wheel and tire set up that would be fantastic

Titan 7 T-AK2, true forged- 21 lbs. But I can’t recommend them yet, ordered January of 24, back order, received July, still waiting for the center caps. Mfg changes moving production back here blamed, US made great, if I ever get the caps. Combo weight with the 59 lb Toyo AT3 80 lbs. stock wheels and 285/70 KO2’s 82 lbs. Weight weenie that hates unsprung weight approved, also no gate reinforcement needed.

 

[Rkobel]

I just took a close look, you could likely go 8.5” -12mm, 4.25” BS without going (or slightly) past the extensions with 12.50’s. 285’s are just ~11.50’s tread, but fit for 12.50’s, you will probably want to upgrade in the (near) future.

psssst- with the lift 285/70 or even 285/75 will look too small . The factory 33’s looked small on mine with the factory 1.5” lift. Save money in the long run and get light 35/12.50’s. I got 59 lb Toyo AT3, the lightest 35/12.50 - 315/70
3 peak. They have proven to be a terrific tire. … do also consider wheel weight when choosing. My 8.5” wheel 35/12.50 combo is 2 lbs lighter than the factory 7.5” 285/70 combo
Edit- brain fart, if your Willys doesn’t have the wide axles no sweat with the -12-19 mm. Sorry, I don’t know the axle width difference.

Correct - the Willy’s does NOT have the wide axles like the Rubi. Therefore the -12 to -19 was what I was looking into with the 17x9 wheels.
If you don’t mind me asking, what 17x8.5 wheel did you go with? And which particular 35” tired did you end up going with that ended up being lighter than the factory set up? If I can keep the new set up around the same weight or lighter than the factory wheel and tire set up that would be fantastic

 

[Steph1]

285/75 are too narrow for a 9.5 inch wheel. Go with the 17x8. 9.5 would work with 315/70, 35x12.50 and preferably 35x13.5, but way too wide for 285/75

 

[Rkobel]

I’m not knowledgeable on Willys axles, but I think they went to the wide axles in 24. They say 4.5” BS is sufficient, but if you have the narrow axles maybe go -19mm for 4.25” on 9” wheels. But options vary, -1mm was the only offset on my 8.5’s. Also does your 23 have the high clearance fenders for the XR extensions ? You could use input from Willys owners to verify.
I thought I was being helpful until I realized you have a 23 Willys that leaves these questions to be answered.

Yes, the 2023 Willy’s 4xe has narrower axles than the 2024 model. The 2023 has Dana 30 front axles and Dana 44 rear axles - whereas the 2024 model and Rubicon models have the front and rear set up with Dana 44’s. This is one of the main reasons why I think the 4xe needs a larger offset/backspacing when running the metalcloak 2.5 True DR lift - especially if larger tires are desired.
Would it be safer just to go with a 17x8 or 17x8.5 and a 285/75r17 (or smaller 285/70r17) set up for now to avoid any fitment or tuning issues from 35”s?

 

[Rkobel]

285/75 are too narrow for a 9.5 inch wheel. Go with the 17x8. 9.5 would work with 315/70, 35x12.50 and preferably 35x13.5, but way too wide for 285/75

Thanks for the info! So 285/75r17 on a 17x8 would be sufficient? There are a lot more options with the correct offset/BS I am needing in that wheel size, and definitely more in my price range.

 

[grimmjeeper]

I see, I'm mostly just a geeky theory guy without much off-road experience, thought I'd chip in on what I know mathematically-wise , but yea, cheers!

I'm an engineer so I like the theory as well.

But theory has to give way to empirical observation. I've been Jeeping for a quarter century and I've seen way more lost beads with wider wheels than narrow.

I always go on the narrow side when it comes to wheels. And I've never lost a bead, even running 12-15 PSI doing some pretty serious trails in CO and UT.

 

[2nd 392]

Yes, the 2023 Willy’s 4xe has narrower axles than the 2024 model. The 2023 has Dana 30 front axles and Dana 44 rear axles - whereas the 2024 model and Rubicon models have the front and rear set up with Dana 44’s. This is one of the main reasons why I think the 4xe needs a larger offset/backspacing when running the metalcloak 2.5 True DR lift - especially if larger tires are desired.
Would it be safer just to go with a 17x8 or 17x8.5 and a 285/75r17 (or smaller 285/70r17) set up for now to avoid any fitment or tuning issues from 35”s?

It’s up to you, but you have the lift, your 4xe has the torque of my V8 that pulled the 35’s with the 3.73’s just fine. 4.56’s wanted not needed.
I would likely get light 8.5” -12 (preferred) or -19, wheel choice availability dependent and light 35/12.50’s like the Toyo’s (recommend) to keep unsprung weight and (front) axle stress down. Not an expert, just common sense speaking.

33’s will look stupid small with the lift, 34’s better, but still too small….. But, that’s just, like, my opinion man

edit- 285/75/C Toyo AT3 the same 59 lbs as the 35/12.50’s

 

[Steph1]

Thanks for the info! So 285/75r17 on a 17x8 would be sufficient? There are a lot more options with the correct offset/BS I am needing in that wheel size, and definitely more in my price range.

For you tire size, go with 8 inch wide or 8.5 at the very most. Offset should be 0 or +6 to +12. If you go negative, your Jeep will look like an old school rollerskate. Unless you’re into that look.

 

[Rkobel]

It’s up to you, but you have the lift, your 4xe has the torque of my V8 that pulled the 35’s with the 3.73’s just fine. 4.56’s wanted not needed.
I would likely get light 8.5” -12 (preferred) or -19, wheel choice availability dependent and light 35/12.50’s like the Toyo’s (recommend) to keep unsprung weight and (front) axle stress down. Not an expert, just common sense speaking.

33’s will look stupid small with the lift, 34’s better, but still too small….. But, that’s just, like, my opinion man

edit- 285/75/C Toyo AT3 the same 59 lbs as the 35/12.50’s

I greatly appreciate the opinions and need all the common sense I can get 🫠
It looks like the Toyo AT3 at 35/12.50 weigh in at 65lbs - not too much more than the 34”s.
I suppose i just need to find a 17x8.5 (or 17x9) with a low(er) weight, if possible. The stock Willys 4xe wheel and tire set up including sensor components weighs about 73 lbs in total. Is there a max weight I should be keeping in mind NOT to supersede with the new set up?
The stock Willy’s wheel weighed around 20lbs, so I’m assuming I wouldn’t want to go too far past that. I want to avail having the front axles upgraded to the 44’s IF possible.

 

[grimmjeeper]

I greatly appreciate the opinions and need all the common sense I can get 🫠
It looks like the Toyo AT3 at 35/12.50 weigh in at 65lbs - not too much more than the 34”s.
I suppose i just need to find a 17x8.5 (or 17x9) with a low(er) weight, if possible. The stock Willys 4xe wheel and tire set up including sensor components weighs about 73 lbs in total. Is there a max weight I should be keeping in mind NOT to supersede with the new set up?
The stock Willy’s wheel weighed around 20lbs, so I’m assuming I wouldn’t want to go too far past that. I want to avail having the front axles upgraded to the 44’s IF possible.

People put way too much emphasis on weight. It doesn't have as much effect on the vehicle as one might think. Especially when you're only talking about a dozen pounds or less.

Get the tires that have the tread you want in the size you want. Let someone else worry about weight.

 

[Rkobel]

For you tire size, go with 8 inch wide or 8.5 at the very most. Offset should be 0 or +6 to +12. If you go negative, your Jeep will look like an old school rollerskate. Unless you’re into that look.

Steph1 thanks for the input - not really into the old school rollerskate look, but can afford a little poke where I live. Just trying to decide whether to be conservative with the 17x8 (or 8.5) with the 285/75 set-up, or go ahead with a finding a 17x8.5 (or 9) with a 35/12.50 set-up.
I was also considering that I’d probably need a new heavier duty spare tire carrier with the larger set up.

 

[Steph1]

Steph1 thanks for the input - not really into the old school rollerskate look, but can afford a little poke where I live. Just trying to decide whether to be conservative with the 17x8 (or 8.5) with the 285/75 set-up, or go ahead with a finding a 17x8.5 (or 9) with a 35/12.50 set-up.
I was also considering that I’d probably need a new heavier duty spare tire carrier with the larger set up.

To this, I’d say if you consider 35s, don’t do it halfway and regear to 4.56 or 4.88. For the carrier, the Teraflex hd combined with the mopar bracket worked good for me

 

[2nd 392]

I greatly appreciate the opinions and need all the common sense I can get 🫠
It looks like the Toyo AT3 at 35/12.50 weigh in at 65lbs - not too much more than the 34”s.
I suppose i just need to find a 17x8.5 (or 17x9) with a low(er) weight, if possible. The stock Willys 4xe wheel and tire set up including sensor components weighs about 73 lbs in total. Is there a max weight I should be keeping in mind NOT to supersede with the new set up?
The stock Willy’s wheel weighed around 20lbs, so I’m assuming I wouldn’t want to go too far past that. I want to avail having the front axles upgraded to the 44’s IF possible.

No- Toyo 35/12.50/C 59 lbs. the lightest 3 peak, 5 lbs lighter than 315/70/C KO2’s. The same as their 34’s (285/75/C). Heck 34/10.50 pizza cutter 55 lbs. 35/11.50/C 63 lbs . Are you looking at the 67 lb 315/70 that comes in D load ? C & E called 35/12.50, D called 315/70, essentially the same specs otherwise.

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