Which diff skid plate are you getting?Thanks all. I was asking because I wasn't sure if it was meant to carry long-term static weight (versus transient sliding weight that a slid plate typically sees.) I was seeing the skid plate's purpose as more to prevent chunks of iron from being chunked off the lip, rather than more of a weight bearing article. But, all your answrrs make sense. People are going to get hung up longer term, so the skid would need to carry the weight, too.
Thanks everyone.
All of that said they arent really necessary the diff housing itself is very unlikely to break and you lose clearance with them. To me youre better off with a beefier diff cover and keep the clearance.Thanks all. I was asking because I wasn't sure if it was meant to carry long-term static weight (versus transient sliding weight that a slid plate typically sees.) I was seeing the skid plate's purpose as more to prevent chunks of iron from being chunked off the lip, rather than more of a weight bearing article. But, all your answrrs make sense. People are going to get hung up longer term, so the skid would need to carry the weight, too.
Thanks everyone.
with the AEV type skid you loose less than a RCH of clearance and the ribs of the diff pumpkin don't get hung up...different strokes no doubt so one has to do what makes them feel warm and fuzzy.All of that said they arent really necessary the diff housing itself is very unlikely to break and you lose clearance with them. To me youre better off with a beefier diff cover and keep the clearance.
I dont know that spending AEV money on stamped steel is ever worth it.with the AEV type skid you loose less than a RCH of clearance and the ribs of the diff pumpkin don't get hung up...different strokes no doubt so one has to do what makes them feel warm and fuzzy.
A beefier cover will still have that lip that tends to catch on rocks. Yes, NVM's diff skids are overkill, but they provide some warm fuzzies after having so many damn issues with diff gears going out.All of that said they arent really necessary the diff housing itself is very unlikely to break and you lose clearance with them. To me youre better off with a beefier diff cover and keep the clearance.
It was 100% worth it for me. But no doubt not for you.I dont know that spending AEV money on stamped steel is ever worth it.
I wheel with a guy with a JL 2 door, factory skids, 2.5 inch lift, 35s, with 30 plus years of wheeling and his undercarriage looks pretty pristine. I go on the same trails with him and try to follow his lines but for some reason hear a lot of banging and screeching coming from the underside of my Jeep.A beefier cover will still have that lip that tends to catch on rocks. Yes, NVM's diff skids are overkill, but they provide some warm fuzzies after having so many damn issues with diff gears going out.
Not sure if that’s a rhetorical question if not my non-expert opinion follows.Why is this that my owner's manual specifically indicates axles as the jacking points, and not the rear differential?
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No, the question is not rhetorical: My BMW owner's manual specifies four corner jacking points and two central jacking points. The rear differential is not one of them, even though it is rather prominent, convenient and hard to miss.Not sure if that’s a rhetorical question if not my non-expert opinion follows.
This is the factory recommendation for lifting one corner of the vehicle with a cheap factory scissor jack in order to change a tire and possibly with the assumption it is a road side repair. If you were to lift from the rear differential with the OEM jack it would not be optimal and may not lift only one corner of the vehicle.
With caution, common sense, a good floor jack, and jack stands in a garage setting you can lift from the differential or the frame. If you remove a tire and wheel for some repairs in the garage, I would also lay the wheel under the frame as an additional safety measure. If the job allows it I leave the floor jack, jack stands, and wheel under the frame all in place.
Ok I took it as the owners manual say this, why would you do otherwise? The Jeep with solid front and rear axles and its frame allow for more potential jacking points.No, the question is not rhetorical: My BMW owner's manual specifies four corner jacking points and two central jacking points. The rear differential is not one of them, even though it is rather prominent, convenient and hard to miss.