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Upgrading Non-Alpine Audio

Drumpkins

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See post above...any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
I am far from an expert but I would say yes. That way you can control the bass from your sub separately from the the rest of your speakers. I think it'd be best to turn bass down in your EQ settings and adjust it with the sub knob. That way you can take bass out of your other speakers which should improve clarity.

But honestly, this is pure speculation. I know about stage sound but almost nothing about car audio.
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Drumpkins

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Just was quoted $275+tax to install this 8" jl audio sub to tailgate like yours. They highly recommended a separate bass knob be added to control the sub volume seperate. This price includes 8 gauge wire and bass knob drilled on front dash. Is the bass knob needed?
Hmm. I would want to place it in an easy to replace spot like where your aux switches normally go or where the automatic windows switches go since I have neither in mine. You'd have to build a little box or something but I'd hate to drill into the dash for a knob.
 

cmb396

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Just was quoted $275+tax to install this 8" jl audio sub to tailgate like yours. They highly recommended a separate bass knob be added to control the sub volume seperate. This price includes 8 gauge wire and bass knob drilled on front dash. Is the bass knob needed?
I had my bass knob mounted underneath the light switch to the left of the steering wheel. It's not needed per say, but I like having them.
 

cmb396

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Nice...Why is it not needed?
You have your bass adjustments with your head unit. This just provides a further adjustability of your sub. You can turn it all the way up, or off. I personally wouldn't go with out one, but that's me.
 

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ChattVol

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You have your bass adjustments with your head unit. This just provides a further adjustability of your sub. You can turn it all the way up, or off. I personally wouldn't go with out one, but that's me.
I'd like to be able to turn the bass down on the other speakers and let the sub handle the lows. Can you do this without a separate bass knob?
 

cmb396

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I'd like to be able to turn the bass down on the other speakers and let the sub handle the lows. Can you do this without a separate bass knob?
No
 

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Sorry for a very late reply. Work has been ridiculous. I pulled the signal for the powered bass tube from the rear speaker locations. The powered Fusion sub I have does have a remote for the volume.

Since then, I have installed an old Alpine deck in the glove box and used the front dash speakers as inputs. This old Alpine deck has time delay, crossovers, parametric EQ, sub output and 4x25 watt amp built in. I tinker with the settings all the time to get the sound the way I want it. The Alpine is only powering the front dash top and knee speakers. I have not changed the 4" speakers at all.

I have changed the rears to the same JL Audio speakers as the front. The rears are still being powered off of the stock amp.

The JL speakers are more efficient than the stock speakers, so now the midbass doesn't quite match up with the JL's. Adjusting the level of the front does help but with a clearer sounding system, you notice some songs sound better than others.

On top of the continuing madness of finding a great balance of sound, my right rear decided to stop working on me. :surprised:

As an former audio guy, I will probably continue to change settings, maybe even speakers until the day I no longer drive this. :cwl:
I've changed out the 2.5's in daah and soundbar to 3.5's kicker plug and play speakers and just ordered the 8" jl audio sub for rear tailgate + bass knob. I plan to turn my bass down to -6 or -7 on head unit and use sub for low's. My front and soundbar speaker still distort when volume is turned above 20 ish(very noticable in soundbar). Would it make a big difference if I amplified those? If so, what is an economical option that I can conceal? Thanks!
 

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Like yourself, I too decided to not go with the Alpine upgrade. I said to myself, "How bad could the stereo with the 7" display be?" Well... Bad. It was really bad. Especially with the doors and roof off. Couldn't hardly hear anything and if you turn it up too loud it just sounds awful.

So I decided to do something about it. I didn't want to change the head unit because I like the stock look and honestly didn't want to travel down that road.

I had the following installed.

4 of these https://www.kicker.com/44KSC404
2 in knee panels and 2 in the roll bar.
This amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC7005/Kenwood-KAC-7005PS.html
And this sub.
https://www.kicker.com/comp-c-12-svc-subwoofer

And holy shit it sounds good! Total for the hardware and installation was $700.00.

Couldn't be happier with this upgrade.

I'm debating on ordering the 3.5 kickers for the dash and roll bar. Just to finish it off.
 

Drumpkins

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This box has an amp in it. The cost was $399 at my local audio shop. I will say, I had my doubts, but it really thumps for an 8" sub! As mentioned, a 10" box will fit as well, but it's about 3" deeper into the cargo area. This one doesn't really protrude out further than the door lock/handle interior offset.
The base is amazing out of this little thing!
The Jeep is in the shop now having a JL amp wired to the factory speakers, I knew nothing about the speakers changing!!
I've always been an after market JL or Wetsounds guy so didn't order my JLUR with the alpine and am now seeing the issues with upgrading speakers.

As for mounting this box, if you pull plastic interior cover off the inside of the tailgate, there are 6 mounting holes, just pre drill your box to match those mounting holes and bolt it in. Solid as a rock on the tailgate.
There is zero vibration with the tailgate latched, but some slight vibration with the tailgate open.

Let me know if y'all need any more info.
Do you know what size/thread the mounting holes on tailgate are?
 

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cmb396

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Do you know what size/thread the mounting holes on tailgate are?
No. Just pop the plastic cover off and you will see them. I'd guess theyre 3/8-16 going by memory, I didn't do the install tho.
 

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Like yourself, I too decided to not go with the Alpine upgrade. I said to myself, "How bad could the stereo with the 7" display be?" Well... Bad. It was really bad. Especially with the doors and roof off. Couldn't hardly hear anything and if you turn it up too loud it just sounds awful.

So I decided to do something about it. I didn't want to change the head unit because I like the stock look and honestly didn't want to travel down that road.

I had the following installed.

4 of these https://www.kicker.com/44KSC404
2 in knee panels and 2 in the roll bar.
This amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC7005/Kenwood-KAC-7005PS.html
And this sub.
https://www.kicker.com/comp-c-12-svc-subwoofer

And holy shit it sounds good! Total for the hardware and installation was $700.00.

Couldn't be happier with this upgrade.

I'm debating on ordering the 3.5 kickers for the dash and roll bar. Just to finish it off.
I thought you had to install the JL Audio FiX™ 86. to get an amplifier to work.?
 

NavyVet1959

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I have the JL (2-door) "Sport" model and as such, the most base audio package available and I'm actually surprised how good it sounds. But then again, I'm an old fart and my hearing is crap anyways.
 

Sbnewsom

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I thought you had to install the JL Audio FiX™ 86. to get an amplifier to work.?
Honestly I’m not the best when it comes to writing this stuff up. That’s why I took it somewhere. Based on the components and what I paid, they didn’t use that JL audio fix.
 

Jordon_Taylor

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Like yourself, I too decided to not go with the Alpine upgrade. I said to myself, "How bad could the stereo with the 7" display be?" Well... Bad. It was really bad. Especially with the doors and roof off. Couldn't hardly hear anything and if you turn it up too loud it just sounds awful.

So I decided to do something about it. I didn't want to change the head unit because I like the stock look and honestly didn't want to travel down that road.

I had the following installed.

4 of these https://www.kicker.com/44KSC404
2 in knee panels and 2 in the roll bar.
This amp.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC7005/Kenwood-KAC-7005PS.html
And this sub.
https://www.kicker.com/comp-c-12-svc-subwoofer

And holy shit it sounds good! Total for the hardware and installation was $700.00.

Couldn't be happier with this upgrade.

I'm debating on ordering the 3.5 kickers for the dash and roll bar. Just to finish it off.
Do you have picture of the 4" Kicker speakers installed? Did the stock 4" speakers still have the 3 screw patern like the 3.5" do?
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