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Lift with 37s

dayusmc

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To me 35" on a 2 door JL looks the same as 37" on the 4 Door JL. So also depends if you are a 2 door or 4 door as far as that badass look goes.
And as was already mentioned above, not all 2.5" lifts are 2.5". Fox example Clayton's 2.5" lift is more like a 3.5" lift. On my JT Mojave Clayton's 2.5" front springs were 3.5" and I had to put their 1.5" springs on the rear to keep it level, their 2.5" rear springs raised it too much and had too much rake.
So one thing you have to decide is how high you want too go front and back, then find the springs that will achieve that.
Clayton says that their advertised lift rates are based off of a Rubicon and that their lifts will be at least .5" higher than advertised. So thst means a bare minimum of 3" over a Rubicon. Every company is different, so be mindful of that...
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GMONEY

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Probably not excessive in my case since that's what I just spent. It also included front and back Adam's driveshafts, 8 adjustable control arms and my Tazer. Probably also something I can't remember right now.
Gotcha

I know everywhere is different sounds like a nice lil set up you got going on there.
 
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Jeepmama71

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My last setup was a jk on nitto 35s, 410s with 2.5 rock krawler and it was a great setup and would totally recommend.

My current jl project has nitto 37s, 345 with a 3.5 teraflex. I have never seen 8th gear and I fight to keep it in seventh at 70mph. I hate you windy days! Re-gearing to 4.88s is #1 on my list and expensive. A big plus with the 37s is I can leaf blow under the jeep with no effort. Oh and it's badass to drive around on 37s in the city and the trails.

Overall I would have to concur with the majority, anything over 35s gets expensive.

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Probably not excessive in my case since that's what I just spent. It also included front and back Adam's driveshafts, 8 adjustable control arms and my Tazer. Probably also something I can't remember right now.
Nice ride. I have decided after all the input 35s for sure.
 

FreedomFur

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Ok Jeepers I am new to Jeep. I want to do a 4 inch lift with teraflex 2 arm kit and 37 tires Toyos. On a new 2024 Sahara 2.0 with 3.45 top gear 8 speed Transmission. I am not concerned about gas mileage. How will this drive and has anyone had problems with driveshaft, transmission axles. Is this setup too much? I will not be rock climbing mainly highway driving and beach rides.
I have a 37" KO2s and even the HD Dynatrac ball joints in my ProRock44 wore out in 20K miles. You will likely also wear out tie rod ends or the tie rod itself, so budget for that. Speaking of after market stuff.
 

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I have a 37" KO2s and even the HD Dynatrac ball joints in my ProRock44 wore out in 20K miles. You will likely also wear out tie rod ends or the tie rod itself, so budget for that. Speaking of after market stuff.
That's surprising! I've seen most running the Dynatrac ball joints get much higher mileage out of them and still don't need to rebuild them yet.

Do you have a low backspaced / high offset wheel? I've heard pushing the wheels/tires farther away from vehicle center can put extra stress on the joints and cause them to wear faster.

Also, have you swapped your steering knuckles from aluminum to iron? I know a lot of members have seen wallowing where the ball joints are pressed in, and this might be lead to premature balljoint wear.
 

FreedomFur

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That's surprising! I've seen most running the Dynatrac ball joints get much higher mileage out of them and still don't need to rebuild them yet.

Do you have a low backspaced / high offset wheel? I've heard pushing the wheels/tires farther away from vehicle center can put extra stress on the joints and cause them to wear faster.

Also, have you swapped your steering knuckles from aluminum to iron? I know a lot of members have seen wallowing where the ball joints are pressed in, and this might be lead to premature balljoint wear.
I’m running the standard factory Rubicon width axle and the factory Mopar the black tires with the actual beadlock ring. No rubbing issues so I haven’t pushed them out farther. The knuckles are from the XR model which has the iron knuckle instead of aluminum.

Disappointing for sure. Add it to the list of things that Dunattached has disappointed me on recently.

Having a jeep as a daily driver, just beat the crap out of Components, probably more so than off-roading in a lot of ways.
 

tomk62

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dayusmc

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I’m running the standard factory Rubicon width axle and the factory Mopar the black tires with the actual beadlock ring. No rubbing issues so I haven’t pushed them out farther. The knuckles are from the XR model which has the iron knuckle instead of aluminum.

Disappointing for sure. Add it to the list of things that Dunattached has disappointed me on recently.

Having a jeep as a daily driver, just beat the crap out of Components, probably more so than off-roading in a lot of ways.
Oh I believe it. I have hit potholes going 70+ mph on the highway in mine and the impact felt in cab is a heck of a lot more jarring than almost anything I've done rock crawling.

I have just over 20k on my odometer with only ~6k with the lift and 35's and I am pretty sure my steering is toast. Not undrivable by any means, but things don't feel quite right, and there's a lot more flop/play in my tie rod and drag link than there should be. Still have to check ball joints and the axle side UCA bushings to see if they might be contributing to the overall issue.

To keep it relevant to @Jeepmama71, once you start modifying it can turn into a bottomless pit pretty quick. If your heart is set on 37's, it might make sense to pick up some Rubicon take-off axles and beef them up a bit to handle the larger tires. They almost all come with 4.10 gears, which won't be perfect for 37's but a lot better than 3.45, and you can swap knuckles and ball joints before they go in.

You could also go for a fairly basic kit like the Metalcloak True Dual 2.5" that will include everything you need to be a beach cruiser, and if you ever get more extreme, add components later on. You don't even have to swap shocks, and you should not need a new front driveshaft unless you go with their Rocksport shocks.
 

FreedomFur

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Oh I believe it. I have hit potholes going 70+ mph on the highway in mine and the impact felt in cab is a heck of a lot more jarring than almost anything I've done rock crawling.

I have just over 20k on my odometer with only ~6k with the lift and 35's and I am pretty sure my steering is toast. Not undrivable by any means, but things don't feel quite right, and there's a lot more flop/play in my tie rod and drag link than there should be. Still have to check ball joints and the axle side UCA bushings to see if they might be contributing to the overall issue.

To keep it relevant to @Jeepmama71, once you start modifying it can turn into a bottomless pit pretty quick. If your heart is set on 37's, it might make sense to pick up some Rubicon take-off axles and beef them up a bit to handle the larger tires. They almost all come with 4.10 gears, which won't be perfect for 37's but a lot better than 3.45, and you can swap knuckles and ball joints before they go in.

You could also go for a fairly basic kit like the Metalcloak True Dual 2.5" that will include everything you need to be a beach cruiser, and if you ever get more extreme, add components later on. You don't even have to swap shocks, and you should not need a new front driveshaft unless you go with their Rocksport shocks.
Totally agreed! In all honesty, I wish I had stuck with 35s. Yes, it looks awesome, yes it basically ground clearances anything in NH that I can crawl on (and there is some stuff my old ‘21 Willys with a 2” lift and 35’s wouldn’t).

I am half tempted to swap the springs and shocks to drop the lift down and then run 35s going forward. I’d lose 2” of belly clearance and 1” of clearance on the diffs.

I will likely swap the unused spare 37” K02 onto the Jeep this summer and buy 3 new K02 tires, then run them into the ground and seriously consider dropping the Jeep down to 35s.

I also chopped the fenders, so going to 35s now will make it look like a Mario Kart car.
 
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Jeepmama71

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Oh I believe it. I have hit potholes going 70+ mph on the highway in mine and the impact felt in cab is a heck of a lot more jarring than almost anything I've done rock crawling.

I have just over 20k on my odometer with only ~6k with the lift and 35's and I am pretty sure my steering is toast. Not undrivable by any means, but things don't feel quite right, and there's a lot more flop/play in my tie rod and drag link than there should be. Still have to check ball joints and the axle side UCA bushings to see if they might be contributing to the overall issue.

To keep it relevant to @Jeepmama71, once you start modifying it can turn into a bottomless pit pretty quick. If your heart is set on 37's, it might make sense to pick up some Rubicon take-off axles and beef them up a bit to handle the larger tires. They almost all come with 4.10 gears, which won't be perfect for 37's but a lot better than 3.45, and you can swap knuckles and ball joints before they go in.

You could also go for a fairly basic kit like the Metalcloak True Dual 2.5" that will include everything you need to be a beach cruiser, and if you ever get more extreme, add components later on. You don't even have to swap shocks, and you should not need a new front driveshaft unless you go with their Rocksport shocks.
Kinda sounds like Jeeps are like side by sides a money pit. But damn there fun. ?
 

dayusmc

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I will likely swap the unused spare 37” K02 onto the Jeep this summer and buy 3 new K02 tires, then run them into the ground and seriously consider dropping the Jeep down to 35s.
I think they stopped making the KO2 and now they are KO3 and the tread is a little different. You might want to see if someone still has the KO2 in stock and pick up 3 now before they are all gone...
 
 







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