G2 Core Dual Rate Sway Bar

[GrayWolf.Overland]

I came across this product when researching on Antirock and SwayLoc. This seems to be the closest replication of the Rubicon sway bar without the electronics and Canbus to deal with. Their website shows the product as a JK only application but Core G2 has since launched a JL specific version of this system (I called G2 today and confirmed it with correct part number)

I did a search on the forum and looks like there is no reference to this. I haven't seen a single YT/IG post about a JL/JT using this system. Wondering if this had some bad reputation in the JK world and hence folks didn't opt to install this? or is it just that its prohibitively expensive that no one wanted to install this ? ?

From the info on their website [Product Page] and the JK videos I have seen for this product, seems to be a perfect drop in for Sport/Sahara/Willys to get the same single switch sway bar disconnect as in Rubicon. Please comment if you have considered this system, or have experience with this on the JK platform

JL Drs Swaybar 72-2150DRS G2 Axle and Gear
Model #: 72-2150DRS
https://www.vividracing.com/-p-152689954.html

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[GrayWolf.Overland]

Bump

 

[Headbarcode]

For less money, one could end up with a very well balanced front AND rear Antirock arrangement. And thats before adding the extra cost of a pair of double heim joint links to that g2 setup.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

For less money, one could end up with a very well balanced front AND rear Antirock arrangement. And thats before adding the extra cost of a pair of double heim joint links to that g2 setup.

I keep getting discouraged from the antirock citing the worst case in both cases - less stability on-road and reduced flex off-road.

I am not too concerned about the less flex part - my current setup with Apex Autolynx is not a full flex setup anyways. If I am too worried about on road stability, should I opt for the 0.8" bar?

 

[Headbarcode]

I keep getting discouraged from the antirock citing the worst case in both cases - less stability on-road and reduced flex off-road.

I am not too concerned about the less flex part - my current setup with Apex Autolynx is not a full flex setup anyways. If I am too worried about on road stability, should I opt for the 0.8" bar?

Most of the on road body roll complaints that I came across during my research into the Antirocks, were from owners of JK's.

The root cause of the JK being more prone to excessive body roll on road compared to our JL's is two-fold:

First, was simply weight. The JK's were 200-300lbs heavier. Half of that added weight was in the frame, because it was constructed of a lower grade steel that required more crossmembers to reach the same strength and rigidity specs. The other half was in the body because all panels were steel, whereas the JL's have aluminum doors, hood, and windshield frame and an aluminum clad magnesium tailgate. Not only was that adding to the sprung weight, it was also up higher on the vehicle and had a negative affect on center of gravity.

Second, was rear shock location. The JK rear upper shocks were mounted on the inboard side of the frame rails vs the JL's outboard mounting. Since shock dampening plays a part in body roll control, the narrower mounts result in less leverage. That's why stock JK's had thicker rear bars than JL's, to help pick up that slack.

Didn't mean for this post to get so long, but just wanting to share my findings.

I've built my JLUR for rock crawling day trips, so no extra camping or roof rack weight, just basic armor weight here. It also spends most of its time as my daily driver. It's currently lifted 5.5" over stock height up front and 6" out back and has 40x13.5's with 4.5" of backspace, so it's hardtop is over 10" taller and track width is over 7" wider than a stock Rubicon. I have the Antirock .770" bars both front and rear. It does have more body roll than with the stock sway bars, but nowhere near enough to cause me to alter anything about my driving. I can still toss it into curves and corners if I want, and it still feels confident and predictable when I've had to make evasive maneuvers.

I checked out your vehicle showcase, so first off, nice looking Jeep you've got there. I see that you're into overlanding with the family, so the Jeep and that roof rack will be loaded up with some decent weight. RockJock does recommend the .850" bars for overlanding or heavier built JL's and JT's. Those will definitely give you more body control for your intended uses and wants in daily drive ability.

One last thing that I've liked about the balanced front and rear sway bars on road, is less side to side head toss when just one side of the Jeep hits a bump or dip in the road.

Ok, I'll stop now. ?

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

Most of the on road body roll complaints that I came across during my research into the Antirocks, were from owners of JK's.

The root cause of the JK being more prone to excessive body roll on road compared to our JL's is two-fold:

First, was simply weight. The JK's were 200-300lbs heavier. Half of that added weight was in the frame, because it was constructed of a lower grade steel that required more crossmembers to reach the same strength and rigidity specs. The other half was in the body because all panels were steel, whereas the JL's have aluminum doors, hood, and windshield frame and an aluminum clad magnesium tailgate. Not only was that adding to the sprung weight, it was also up higher on the vehicle and had a negative affect on center of gravity.

Second, was rear shock location. The JK rear upper shocks were mounted on the inboard side of the frame rails vs the JL's outboard mounting. Since shock dampening plays a part in body roll control, the narrower mounts result in less leverage. That's why stock JK's had thicker rear bars than JL's, to help pick up that slack.

Didn't mean for this post to get so long, but just wanting to share my findings.

I've built my JLUR for rock crawling day trips, so no extra camping or roof rack weight, just basic armor weight here. It also spends most of its time as my daily driver. It's currently lifted 5.5" over stock height up front and 6" out back and has 40x13.5's with 4.5" of backspace, so it's hardtop is over 10" taller and track width is over 7" wider than a stock Rubicon. I have the Antirock .770" bars both front and rear. It does have more body roll than with the stock sway bars, but nowhere near enough to cause me to alter anything about my driving. I can still toss it into curves and corners if I want, and it still feels confident and predictable when I've had to make evasive maneuvers.

I checked out your vehicle showcase, so first off, nice looking Jeep you've got there. I see that you're into overlanding with the family, so the Jeep and that roof rack will be loaded up with some decent weight. RockJock does recommend the .850" bars for overlanding or heavier built JL's and JT's. Those will definitely give you more body control for your intended uses and wants in daily drive ability.

One last thing that I've liked about the balanced front and rear sway bars on road, is less side to side head toss when just one side of the Jeep hits a bump or dip in the road.

Ok, I'll stop now. ?

Thank you for the detailed reasoning. Much appreciate it. I think your details sort of explained why i thought i need the more firm bars.

If one installed 0.8 on the front, the rear should be the same too to match?

 

[Headbarcode]

Thank you for the detailed reasoning. Much appreciate it. I think your details sort of explained why i thought i need the more firm bars.

If one installed 0.8 on the front, the rear should be the same too to match?

Yes. You'll want the matching .850" bar in the rear, as that will be helping control the brunt of your rear passenger, cargo area, and roof rack weights.

If you don't mind taking a step back for a moment, I'm curious about your thoughts on the autolinks. What have they not provided, causing you to think about replacing them?

 

[Tncdrew]

Evo manual conversion to an OEM Rubi swaybar! ?

 

[Old Jeeper]

The G2 is a Rubicon by a different name, no more, no less.

Currie Anti Rock. I bought one of there very first ones at the Off Road show in Pomoma Ca from One of the Currie Brothers (AZZHOLES). I looked at told him it will FAIL. He swore it would not and was impossible. He was a Currie.

OK go with it and you back it 100%. YES we back all of our stuff.

I buy it, take it home and install it. FIRST day out wheeling and it broke.

I called them up, sent pics and said I told it was going to break.

ALL of a sudden Currie stopped selling the Alum ones and converted to steel.

NOTE them being jerks and not backing up their product I will buy it again because its the best solution on the market.

Most if not all folks do not know what a Sway bar actually does. Its JOB is to PLANT and Keep Planted the tire/wheel to the terra-firma.

Now that you know that you GOTS to ask, why do a full disconnect of the sway bar?

Starting to SMELL the Coffee?

Even the Curries knew that which is why they developed it.

Since its adjustable, you run loose or looser.

But WAIT there is more: Anyone ever TUNED an Anti Rock, Does anyone know how? I do and its for that reason I ran them and never had any issues on the highway or driving around town. It can go from a daily driver to Moab and never need adjusting. THe KEY is in dialing it in and its one and done!

Top pic is the New and Improved STEEL version, note Currie would not even sell sell me a new set of arms so I ended buying the Anti Rock twice.

This is the original Alum WINDOW unit, I told him the windows were rectangles and would fail, and they should have used round holes to keep the integrity of the arm.

Here is the failure and sent it to them and never eve got a reply...

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

The G2 is a Rubicon by a different name, no more, no less.

Currie Anti Rock. I bought one of there very first ones at the Off Road show in Pomoma Ca from One of the Currie Brothers (AZZHOLES). I looked at told him it will FAIL. He swore it would not and was impossible. He was a Currie.

OK go with it and you back it 100%. YES we back all of our stuff.

I buy it, take it home and install it. FIRST day out wheeling and it broke.

I called them up, sent pics and said I told it was going to break.

ALL of a sudden Currie stopped selling the Alum ones and converted to steel.

NOTE them being jerks and not backing up their product I will buy it again because its the best solution on the market.

Most if not all folks do not know what a Sway bar actually does. Its JOB is to PLANT and Keep Planted the tire/wheel to the terra-firma.

Now that you know that you GOTS to ask, why do a full disconnect of the sway bar?

Starting to SMELL the Coffee?

Even the Curries knew that which is why they developed it.

Since its adjustable, you run loose or looser.

But WAIT there is more: Anyone ever TUNED an Anti Rock, Does anyone know how? I do and its for that reason I ran them and never had any issues on the highway or driving around town. It can go from a daily driver to Moab and never need adjusting. THe KEY is in dialing it in and its one and done!

Top pic is the New and Improved STEEL version, note Currie would not even sell sell me a new set of arms so I ended buying the Anti Rock twice.

This is the original Alum WINDOW unit, I told him the windows were rectangles and would fail, and they should have used round holes to keep the integrity of the arm.

Here is the failure and sent it to them and never eve got a reply...

Thank you for the reply. Interestingly you talked out keeping it planted.. Which when off-road one might assume needs disconnecting. For a torsion rate based system that is supposedly more strong than a stock bar, wouldn't it twist less under pressure? What is the science behind antirock that makes it different from stock sway bar so that it helps pushing the tires down when needed?

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

Yes. You'll want the matching .850" bar in the rear, as that will be helping control the brunt of your rear passenger, cargo area, and roof rack weights.

If you don't mind taking a step back for a moment, I'm curious about your thoughts on the autolinks. What have they not provided, causing you to think about replacing them?

I got the 8" shorter bar which is fine for my lift height (Clayton 1.5")

1. The first issue is that it doesn't damp well when running corrugated forest roads. There's a lot of clank presumably when it's fully compressed and pushed up at medium trail speeds (40km/hr ish)
2. Secondly, the locking mechanism they use is not holding up. The ring gets unseated.. Right now my passenger side sway bar cylinder rotates freely on it's axis even when the lock nut is torqued. (I have to hold the cylinder and turn the knob to disconnect.. Which defeats the purpose of not getting muddy)
3. Third and last grievance is their procedure for relocking it is not easy unless you have -18 wheels and a chasm between tires and sway bar. I end up just locking the knob, not pushing the bar back and drive over bumps then come out check to ensure it's locked before heading to the highway

 

[CopperMtnGuy]

Evo manual conversion to an OEM Rubi swaybar! ?

x2. Love the setup on my Sahara. So easy to do, reliable and just works perfect. Less than a third of the price of this setup.

 

[GrayWolf.Overland]

x2. Love the setup on my Sahara. So easy to do, reliable and just works perfect. Less than a third of the price of this setup.

Where do you find take-off rubicon sway bars? they are hard to come by here in canada. Wondering if ordering one directly from mopar parts will still turn out cheaper?

 

[Old Jeeper]

Thank you for the reply. Interestingly you talked out keeping it planted.. Which when off-road one might assume needs disconnecting. For a torsion rate based system that is supposedly more strong than a stock bar, wouldn't it twist less under pressure? What is the science behind antirock that makes it different from stock sway bar so that it helps pushing the tires down when needed?

You said it, its a torsion bar. Its attached to the frame. In rock crawling which is the extreme you have one wheel in stuff and one wheel in droop now the weight of the Jeep and the opposition of the opposite sides of the sway bar is what keeps those tires planted as it goes thru its forward motion along with a solid axle the torsion bar has a lot of work to do and does it well.

No swaybar as many advocate and all you have is the weight of the axle on droop and the weight of axle and Jeep on stuff.

I learned this back in my racing days in the 60s. An old guy walked over to my pit at the track and said: Been watching you and you got ALL the HP you need, you are just not getting it to the track...He told me to get a HD rear sway bar and it will plant those rear tires.

I did and found myself more in the winner's circle than before and it was correct. I could come off the line at higher rpms, it handled better down the 1320. You stand behind the cars on the track and when the green light lit and they launched you could see the car dance, Left and Right, not rear sway bar or one not strong enough to handle the car/HP/Torque. Bigger diameter swaybar will plant those tires. To big and it will work as well.

What is comes down to is this: Newton's 3rd law. For every action, there is an equal and OPPOSITE reaction.


Here I have a OEM sway bar from my F 350 truck but I carried a LOT of weight in the bed of the truck so much that I needed to got BIG and what you there is the Hellwig BIG WIG sway bar vs OEM. What a difference it made because it keeps you vehicle from swaying back and forth, PLANTED TIRES!

 

[CopperMtnGuy]

Where do you find take-off rubicon sway bars? they are hard to come by here in canada. Wondering if ordering one directly from mopar parts will still turn out cheaper?

I got mine off FB marketplace for $400 or $500, that seems to be the going rate. Anything less than that is a great deal. eBay pretty much just had new ones for like $800-900, I think Mopar sells them new for like $1200. The Evo disconnect is like $120 I think.

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