Best aftermarket axles - price matters

[Joaquim]

I keep hearing about so many different axle upgrades to replace my m186/m200. I’m aware pretty much either way I need a new tie rod + probably 8 lug wheels + some other minor stuff. Is the dynatrac d60/d80 combo worth it?? why would I pay the extra 3k (17k vs 20k) for a d80 in the back??? Or are the d60s from spicer a better deal?? I want to be able to beat on my vehicle with 37/38 inch tires. Or should I go for prorock D44 in front and mopar crate D44 in rear… not really sure what the best price for performance choice is?? Please advise - thanks

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[JEEP4U]

Full Float D60 F/R would work fine in your application. You can option the rear axle with larger 40 spline axles; if you want added insurance.

I purchased Fusion4x4 axles for my JLUS.

 

[Remorseless]

IMO, depends on how aggressive you are when wheeling. If you're hitting stuff hard and bouncing up things, a full float D60 F/R setup would probably be good for you, IMO. An 80 would probably be overkill in a Wrangler. If you're more likely to hit things slowly and avoid bouncing and all that, a stout D44 will probably be all you need. Anything bigger than 37s/38s you'll probably want the D60s, but 37s+D44s isn't the ticking time bomb so many make it out to be - you just have to remember you're not in a buggy, and Jeeps prefer to crawl instead of bounce. Ran 37s for years on the older gen JK D44s, wheeled often, and all was fine. Even jumped it once in Moab on accident (on 35s at the time) and the older, weaker 44s didn't crumple. YMMV with driving/wheeling style, but that's been my experience.

 

[GATORB8]

I keep hearing about so many different axle upgrades to replace my m186/m200. I’m aware pretty much either way I need a new tie rod + probably 8 lug wheels + some other minor stuff. Is the dynatrac d60/d80 combo worth it?? why would I pay the extra 3k (17k vs 20k) for a d80 in the back??? Or are the d60s from spicer a better deal?? I want to be able to beat on my vehicle with 37/38 inch tires. Or should I go for prorock D44 in front and mopar crate D44 in rear… not really sure what the best price for performance choice is?? Please advise - thanks

There are far more knowledgeable people than me regarding axles, but just a couple notes for your pricing list.

In addition to the tie rod, you'll most likely need the front drag link. Probably new front and rear driveshafts, likely 1350s. If you go air lockers, you'll want to account for your air system. You'll need to be able to program out the FAD, you'll probably want a Tazer anyway at this point, but you'll need something to do reprograming. Rear 8-lug capable tire carrier.

If you're spending that coin on axles, may be worth considering a swap to the Rubi Tcase or aftermarket T case to get your crawl ratio down while you're at it.

 

[Joaquim]

There are far more knowledgeable people than me regarding axles, but just a couple notes for your pricing list.

In addition to the tie rod, you'll most likely need the front drag link. Probably new front and rear driveshafts, likely 1350s. If you go air lockers, you'll want to account for your air system. You'll need to be able to program out the FAD, you'll probably want a Tazer anyway at this point, but you'll need something to do reprograming. Rear 8-lug capable tire carrier.

If you're spending that coin on axles, may be worth considering a swap to the Rubi Tcase or aftermarket T case to get your crawl ratio down while you're at it.

Hmmm okay I was aware of all of these upgrades except the necessity of a transfer case upgrade. I have contacted several shops last week and they said the Sport TC could work… but would I necessarily need the rubicons lower transfer case if I was going for a V8 swap? (maybe 5.7/6.2 I’m trying to keep the horsepower moderate to reduce possible strain). Also would switching the transfer case to the rubicon one give it full time 4WD instead of the 2H/4H/4L I have on the sport? Or is there a center differential swap needed? Not too familiar with how it works exactly

 

[Joaquim]

Full Float D60 F/R would work fine in your application. You can option the rear axle with larger 40 spline axles; if you want added insurance.

I purchased Fusion4x4 axles for my JLUS.

How’re you liking the fusion ones? What sets them apart from dynatrac or others?

 

[Some Random Guy]

Hmmm okay I was aware of all of these upgrades except the necessity of a transfer case upgrade. I have contacted several shops last week and they said the Sport TC could work… but would I necessarily need the rubicons lower transfer case if I was going for a V8 swap? (maybe 5.7/6.2 I’m trying to keep the horsepower moderate to reduce possible strain). Also would switching the transfer case to the rubicon one give it full time 4WD instead of the 2H/4H/4L I have on the sport? Or is there a center differential swap needed? Not too familiar with how it works exactly

The upgraded T-case is not a necessity, but seems weird to not get an additional 50% increase in crawl ratio when throwing full float money around.
Atlas has an option I plan to pursue instead of the Rubi. It gets you independent control of the front and rear so you can dig steer or go rear only if you need to maneuver your rear end while your front is wedged.

 

[Joaquim]

The upgraded T-case is not a necessity, but seems weird to not get an additional 50% increase in crawl ratio when throwing full float money around.
Atlas has an option I plan to pursue instead of the Rubi. It gets you independent control of the front and rear so you can dig steer or go rear only if you need to maneuver your rear end while your front is wedged.

Does it increase durability over the sport or rubicon TC? I see it’s around 3k from their website

 

[GATORB8]

Hmmm okay I was aware of all of these upgrades except the necessity of a transfer case upgrade. I have contacted several shops last week and they said the Sport TC could work… but would I necessarily need the rubicons lower transfer case if I was going for a V8 swap? (maybe 5.7/6.2 I’m trying to keep the horsepower moderate to reduce possible strain). Also would switching the transfer case to the rubicon one give it full time 4WD instead of the 2H/4H/4L I have on the sport? Or is there a center differential swap needed? Not too familiar with how it works exactly

Not a requirement, just one of those while you’re in there things.

The “full time” case with 4 auto would definitely take some more work than just the Rubi part time case, which is a one for one swap since the only difference is the low range gearing.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Does it increase durability over the sport or rubicon TC? I see it’s around 3k from their website

I’m nowhere near qualified to comment on that, lol. Here’s my stab at it: It has more moving parts, so more things to go wrong. However, it’s purpose built and the company has a long track record. So probably won’t go wrong. I’d trust any T-case, they’re pretty simple mechanically when you get down to it.

 

[JEEP4U]

How’re you liking the fusion ones? What sets them apart from dynatrac or others?

Liking the 72" width axles with 5.38 ARB lockers on 40's.......Customer Service is great and replacement parts are readily available.

 

[falcon241073]

IMO, depends on how aggressive you are when wheeling. If you're hitting stuff hard and bouncing up things, a full float D60 F/R setup would probably be good for you, IMO. An 80 would probably be overkill in a Wrangler. If you're more likely to hit things slowly and avoid bouncing and all that, a stout D44 will probably be all you need. Anything bigger than 37s/38s you'll probably want the D60s, but 37s+D44s isn't the ticking time bomb so many make it out to be - you just have to remember you're not in a buggy, and Jeeps prefer to crawl instead of bounce. Ran 37s for years on the older gen JK D44s, wheeled often, and all was fine. Even jumped it once in Moab on accident (on 35s at the time) and the older, weaker 44s didn't crumple. YMMV with driving/wheeling style, but that's been my experience.

I still don’t understand where the “D44 is weak for 37” tires” came from. I did put a truss on the front axle because of the FAD. Plus a FAD aftermarket skid for protection and some minor added strength. Other than that the “C”s are thicker than the JK D44 so I didn’t bother with “C” gussets.
I ran 37” tires and beadlocks on my JK with only “C” gussets and never had an issue. And I don’t expect any issues with my JL.

 

[c20040215]

I still don’t understand where the “D44 is weak for 37” tires” came from. I did put a truss on the front axle because of the FAD. Plus a FAD aftermarket skid for protection and some minor added strength. Other than that the “C”s are thicker than the JK D44 so I didn’t bother with “C” gussets.
I ran 37” tires and beadlocks on my JK with only “C” gussets and never had an issue. And I don’t expect any issues with my JL.

Probably came from the guy who tries to sell you axles lol

 

[kah.mun.rah]

I keep hearing about so many different axle upgrades to replace my m186/m200. I’m aware pretty much either way I need a new tie rod + probably 8 lug wheels + some other minor stuff. Is the dynatrac d60/d80 combo worth it?? why would I pay the extra 3k (17k vs 20k) for a d80 in the back??? Or are the d60s from spicer a better deal?? I want to be able to beat on my vehicle with 37/38 inch tires. Or should I go for prorock D44 in front and mopar crate D44 in rear… not really sure what the best price for performance choice is?? Please advise - thanks

If you get the 60/80 combo you will then soon want 40s or 42s and a Hemi swap. Not becasue you will need them but since the 60/80 can handle it, you won't be able to stop thinking about it. ?

 

[moodywizard]

Dstrac is the new kid on the block. Seems a little more affordability and best bang for the buck.

https://www.dstracaxles.com/collections/jeep-jl

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