First JL OIL CHANGE.... , COMPLETED W/ DIY INSTRUCTIONS AND PICS

[Sean L]

Where the hell you driving to? :cwl:

Just a simple Drive to Buenos Aires and back.

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[Sean L]

So the 3.6 liter engine taking 5 quarts of oil seems like a lot compared to my older vehicles. The 3.9 liter V6 in my old Dakota took 4 quarts and the 5.7 Liter V8 in my old Ram took 7 quarts. Does the DOHC setup require more oil than a pushrod engine of a similar size?

 

[Dynomite1371]

Where the hell you driving to? :cwl:

Mars!

 

[DanW]

So the 3.6 liter engine taking 5 quarts of oil seems like a lot compared to my older vehicles. The 3.9 liter V6 in my old Dakota took 4 quarts and the 5.7 Liter V8 in my old Ram took 7 quarts. Does the DOHC setup require more oil than a pushrod engine of a similar size?

My JK's old 3.8 holds 6, so I don't think it is unusual.

 

[JeepDrvr2018]

I hear ya, don't shoot the messenger. I just repeated what many say, but I have my own ideas on same. I try to avoid "oil" thread crapola.

I am with you, but the Chrysler MS spec got me intrigued, so I did some research, clicking on the link below will take you to the spec page where it specifically states it meets the specification.

https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=493118&docFormat=PDF - When I worked for a major Electrical Utility in the Pacific NW, we only used Delo 400 Diesel and Chevron oils for our big rigs and service trucks. I have continued to use it in my diesel motorhome, tractor and all our passenger vehicles. I would offer it's great stuff. FWIW-Years ago, Texaco and Shell or Chevron, got into a legal battle, and Texaco lost, Chevron took them over, not they are marketing their oil with the old Texaco Havoline badge. I am not sure if this will be true for the Diesel rated oils or not.

 

[JeepDrvr2018]

I tried to find any manufacturer that was making conventional 0W20, but couldn't find any. There were some making a blend 0W20. But most were only making synthetic.

Chevron makes 0-20w oil as my GF's Acura has required it since it was new in 2011. She now has 26K miles on it, you can tell who does all the driving, since my 2013 JK Sahara has 62,800 today.

 

[cedxc2005]

Great write up! Mopar filter looked like it should! I doubt there is a vehicle made with a petrol engine that has easier oil change access than the JL.

I'll be running the same oil on my next go around. First change will be on or about the 24th of February.

I don't know about easiest...my old WJ with the 4.0L is a cakewalk. Lots of room to work under that hood.

Gonna miss her when I swap her for the JL.

Great write-up otherwise though! And you're right, the JL does look easy. I was worried it was going to be some convoluted mess that you'd need a double jointed wrist for.

 

[Blu bi Kong]

What kind of water should we be using?
Sorry, had to ask

 

[WXman]

My plan is to change the oil filter at 2,000 miles, and let the oil itself go until my free oil change (via the included Jeep Wave Program membership) when the oil life monitor tells me to.

As soon as the powertrain warranty is finished, the 0W20 junk is going out the window. Switching to an oil that actually has the ability to protect the engine in hot summer weather. ALL these auto makers care about is 1) meeting CAFE standards 2) getting the vehicle through warranty period. And if you've noticed, Jeep has gone back to a 60k powertrain warranty.

 

[mgroeger]

My plan is to change the oil filter at 2,000 miles, and let the oil itself go until my free oil change (via the included Jeep Wave Program membership) when the oil life monitor tells me to.

As soon as the powertrain warranty is finished, the 0W20 junk is going out the window. Switching to an oil that actually has the ability to protect the engine in hot summer weather. ALL these auto makers care about is 1) meeting CAFE standards 2) getting the vehicle through warranty period. And if you've noticed, Jeep has gone back to a 60k powertrain warranty.

So what are you thinking of going to for your oil?

On a side note I changed the oil yesterday with Pennzoil Full synthetic and after dumping it all in I looked in the bottom of the bottle and noticed a silt like substance! I should have taken pics but instead shot some carb cleaner in there to wash it away and it did. Not feeling too good about this.

 

[FatBoy01]

@mgroeger and others...

Don't forget to go here and get your $10 rebate (yes, $10) on your $27.50+- 5 qt. container of Pennzoil. Pennzoil is quick to send the check... http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promo...6b2lsLzIwMTZuZXdzbGV0dGVyLz9sb2NhbGU9ZW5fdXM=

 

[mgroeger]

Thanks for the info but I'm a little skittish on using Pennzoil now. It's the only brand I have used that has no foil seal under the lid and the silt I saw. Makes me a bit paranoid at what that silt is. I plan on contacting them as well as posting on Bob Is The Oil Guy to see if others see it.

 

[Dynomite1371]

As the OP, I figured I would give a small update. My plan was always to do the first one early and the subsequent changes @ 5/6k. I did the second one Sunday at just over 5k. This time I found and used the higher rated filter, XG11665 (Fram Synthetic, I think). It went smooth, and I'm sticking with Mobile 1 full synthetic.

 

[FatBoy01]

Thanks for the info but I'm a little skittish on using Pennzoil now. It's the only brand I have used that has no foil seal under the lid and the silt I saw. Makes me a bit paranoid at what that silt is. I plan on contacting them as well as posting on Bob Is The Oil Guy to see if others see it.

Well, I think the no foil seal concern you have is unwarranted. Many/most no longer use a foil seal.

This is the year 2018. There is really no need for the foil seal.

I do suggest that when you go to buy the 5qt. container at your local store to be sure the top of the plastic bottle is sealed. You will feel the seal let loose/"crack" when you open the jug. IF you do not feel the seal break/let loose, return the bottle to the store and get another..

Why.... There are worthless assholes out there.... that will buy premium oil and dump it out of the container into their own container...... then they put cheaper, crapola oil in the newly purchased container and return that container for a refund. Last year, I actually checked a new 5 qt. jug in the store parking lot to see if it was sealed and it had friggin used oil in it.

.

 

[WXman]

So what are you thinking of going to for your oil?

On a side note I changed the oil yesterday with Pennzoil Full synthetic and after dumping it all in I looked in the bottom of the bottle and noticed a silt like substance! I should have taken pics but instead shot some carb cleaner in there to wash it away and it did. Not feeling too good about this.

Well on my Fords I use only Motorcraft syn-blend factory oil.

Now that the wife and I both have '18 model Jeeps I'll probably go back to a full synthetic off the shelf at Walmart. I grew up using Pennzoil because that's what my mechanic father swears by, but Valvoline has ties to my home state so I don't mind using it either, and lots of guys say that Mobil 1 has the best base stock of any oil in it's price range. So one of those three will get the nod.

My Fords spec a 5W20 oil but I saw an article that claimed that 5W30 can lead to as much as 30% longer engine life on those engines so I've always used a 5W30. My Mach 1 now has 131,000 miles on it and the oil analysis comes back clean as a whistle.

I will likely run a 5W30 in the Pentastar also, IF and only if I find evidence that it won't interfere with the ESS system or the new oiling system that is designed for the ESS capability. Today's engines are a little more finicky.

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