ESS Stopped Working. "Now fixed. Not expected cause." IBS(Intelligent Battery Sensor)

[Birdman]

Update: 1 1/2 months later. All things are going well. Once and a while, I put the trickle charger on the batteries, because I mainly do short drives. ESS seems to be working fine, annoyingly so.

How is it going now had the same issue a year ago they replaced both batteries Ess stopped working again recently and they blamed and replaced the IBS hoping that’s the fix.

Sponsored

 

[PillowFightr]

The ultimate fix for the ESS is... To buy the 392 Rubicon It simply doesn't have it! And instead of the ESS shut off button.. There is exhaust quite/loud button! Genius

Jokes aside.. Hopefully your issue is gone for good

 

[DaltonGang]

How is it going now had the same issue a year ago they replaced both batteries Ess stopped working again recently and they blamed and replaced the IBS hoping that’s the fix.

Zero issues now. So far, so good.

..

 

[TroyBoy]

What is your battery voltage on the evic while you are driving now? Mine is 14.4 to 14.5. It’s a new battery and fully charged with a trickle charger. I’m wondering if I have a bad ibs or ibs fuse. Or maybe it’s because I now only run one battery. I deleted my aux.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

What is your battery voltage on the evic while you are driving now? Mine is 14.4 to 14.5. It’s a new battery and fully charged with a trickle charger. I’m wondering if I have a bad ibs or ibs fuse. Or maybe it’s because I now only run one battery. I deleted my aux.

Apologies If posted above, but I’m lazy... what battery did you put in, and is AUX bypassed?

My new Northstar X2 with AUX disconnected and bypassed shows me just 12.7-12.9 on the EVIC when it’s fully charged. Note that right when I pull it off the tender and drive it’ll show up to 13.9, but after a few minutes the IBS figures out it doesn’t need to charge and voltage readout drops.

I would retest with AUX disconnected - just pull its negative and tape it off. Also, if you got a beefy battery like the Northstar 48 or Odyssey 94R, be sure your tender is up to the task of fully topping it off. I use a Noco Genius 5. (My Deltran works fine, but when it says done the battery has like 12.8v. When the Noco is done it has over 13v.)

 

[TroyBoy]

Apologies If posted above, but I’m lazy... what battery did you put in, and is AUX bypassed?

My new Northstar X2 with AUX disconnected and bypassed shows me just 12.7-12.9 on the EVIC when it’s fully charged. Note that right when I pull it off the tender and drive it’ll show up to 13.9, but after a few minutes the IBS figures out it doesn’t need to charge and voltage readout drops.

I would retest with AUX disconnected - just pull its negative and tape it off. Also, if you got a beefy battery like the Northstar 48 or Odyssey 94R, be sure your tender is up to the task of fully topping it off. I use a Noco Genius 5. (My Deltran works fine, but when it says done the battery has like 12.8v. When the Noco is done it has over 13v.)

Thanks @OldGuyNewJeep i have the aux negative taped off and the aux positive wire routed to the main positive terminal. The battery is an New Odyssey 94R and is fully charged with my Noco Genius 5.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Thanks @OldGuyNewJeep i have the aux negative taped off and the aux positive wire routed to the main positive terminal. The battery is an New Odyssey 94R and is fully charged with my Noco Genius 5.

Ok. Could be the IBS is figuring out what it needs to do. See if it changes after a good 20 minute drive? I also notice it won’t drop until I get to my destination, say a store, turn off and then restart. Always see it in the high 12’s on my way home.

 

[TroyBoy]

Ok. Could be the IBS is figuring out what it needs to do. See if it changes after a good 20 minute drive? I also notice it won’t drop until I get to my destination, say a store, turn off and then restart. Always see it in the high 12’s on my way home.

What a difference a day makes. Voltage while driving is now in the 12.7 to 14.4 range like I remember it used to be.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

What a difference a day makes. Voltage while driving is now in the 12.7 to 14.4 range like I remember it used to be.

Sweet. Yeah, when you take your foot off the gas at speed it will climb up over 14. I remember reading in a very old thread that it was normal.

When I was running the stock two battery setup I never saw the alternator put out less than 14v from day one. I’ve even spouted off in some old threads that it was normal. (I belong on http://reddit.com/r/confidentlyincorrect ? Live and learn!)

Glad you’re now dialed in. You probably have the best battery available, save a crazy $$$ Genesis setup. I swear that failing batteries account for a lot of the UConnect issues people report, too... just a theory.

 

[WranglerMan]

There are all sorts of ways to address correcting ESS issues along with battery issues and they range all the way from an inexpensive fused jumper ( less than $10 ) to what I call the golden goose ( Genesis ) one just has to decide what works for them.

In the end it all comes down to FCA along with lots of makers who use CRAP batteries and the whole design is substandard at best.

I for one rarely look at my voltage anymore, once a week I hook up my NOCO 10 for 24-36 hrs and once a month I use my Odyssey 20 to do a reconditioned deep cycle charge and I have zero issues and all the power I need with my two full size batteries.

 

[sleeper_s]

The 'you don't drive enough' is probably wishful thinking. That's what a dealer told me the problem was at first. So they charged the battery & sent me on my way. Error light comes on on the trip home so I go back & they look at it some more, & come to the conclusion I need a new aux battery. They give me a new battery & that didn't work either. Take it back again, they give me a loaner and ultimately find out I had a faulty clutch interlock switch. They repaired that & its been fine ever since. And with the pandemic, I've been driving less than ever with no charging problems. That stupid ESS is tied in to so many systems I'll bet you'll have to take it in to get it figured out.

I'm having the same issue and I don't go anywhere... Since COVID I'm home every day and the grocery store is about a mile away. I have the occasional off-road trip but mileage wise it's low.

 

[TommyD]

I have noticed, over the past week, that when I am stopped at a light, the engine will not shut off. Personally, I dont like it shutting off, so I usually am in the habit of turning it off, as soon as I get the engine started.
A few weeks ago I had the A/C instrument cluster replaced, under warranty. The ESS button is in the cluster, so it was replaced too. Since the replacement, I have notice the ESS hasnt been shutting the engine off. I also will saw the temperature outside is around 96-99 degrees.
I'm wondering what could cause this issue, temp, replaced cluster, bad ESS battery, or just my good luck??


..

To disable ESS. Some recommend disconnecting the IBS (the little wire plugged into neg battery terminal). This seems to make your alternator overcharge as seen on your voltage. Better to disconnect hood sensor. Both lights will come on, hood open and ess, but if you don't want to press the button each time to avoid wear and tear on the battery(s) starter and engine I think this is the best way.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

To disable ESS. Some recommend disconnecting the IBS (the little wire plugged into neg battery terminal). This seems to make your alternator overcharge as seen on your voltage. Better to disconnect hood sensor. Both lights will come on, hood open and ess, but if you don't want to press the button each time to avoid wear and tear on the battery(s) starter and engine I think this is the best way.

@TommyD

Actually it very unwise to do either way you mention to disable ESS.

Do forum research and you will understand why..

.

 

[DaltonGang]

Well, a few weeks ago, the ESS issue started up, again. I hate this ESS system.
So, after a week in the dealership, for a number of issues, they found the Mini Battery was bad, and replaced it. It is now working again.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Well, good news. It seems the dealership might know what they are doing.
The ESS stopped working completely, even after lengthy trickle charging. I had been told by many it was probably the smaller battery going bad.
After being in the dealershil, having a few things done, I got it back, they said it was fixed.
They replaced the "Intelligent Battery Sensor(IBS)" # Sensor BA 0 8037155.
It still didnt work, after a couple of long drives. SO, I trickle charged the batteries overnight. . For 5 days, the system has now been working perfectly.
So far, so good. I hope this might help a few.

The IBS has to relearn.. from my understanding it takes 5 start cycles, atleast 8 hours apart..

Sponsored