Which engine is easiest to work on?

[JT1]

Agreed, the 3.6 intake is very easy to remove, but not quite as easy as not having to remove it at all
Turbo is 100% a wear item, but they last a long time. It's not like brakes or belts.
I don't buy into the hype about DI gas washing the oil. DI engines are generally more efficient. Non-DI motors get gas in the oil too. I change my oil regularly and I'm not worried about it. I do run an oil catch can because there is no fuel spray on the back of the intake valve with a DI engine. I'd probably run one on a 3.6 too, just to help keep the intake cleaner.
All that being said non-DI motors are 1000% easier to change injectors. Changing injectors on a non-DI motor is easier than changing spark plugs lol.

@OrneryBear Both motors are great. I think it comes down to where you live (elevation favors turbos), how you drive and what you like. I even like the etorque on both engines. I don't find it complicated at all and the etorque battery is warrantied for 8 years. I wouldn't walk away from a good find because it had etorque. I also wouldn't walk away from one that had etorque.

Good points all around. I haven't spent a ton of time with a jeep 2.0 but DI'd engines in general need extra stuff. The catch can probably goes a long way to prevent intake valve buildup..

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[cripton805]

The manual is a POS. The 3.6 is "ok' but is a gas guzzler. I've owned two JLs and one JT Gladiator.

The day I drove an auto 3.6l. I traded the manual. It is like it's not even the same car. Do yourself a favor and avoid the manual.

Once they got rid of the eTorque on the 2.0. I traded the Gladiator for my 2.0 Willys XR.

The 2.0 w/ XR takes my vote. Feels like it has way more power where you need it. Don't have exp. with the diesel but it has a bad rep and complicated.

Here's my 2.0 XR.

 

[cripton805]

?

 

[OrneryBear]

Agreed, the 3.6 intake is very easy to remove, but not quite as easy as not having to remove it at all
Turbo is 100% a wear item, but they last a long time. It's not like brakes or belts.
I don't buy into the hype about DI gas washing the oil. DI engines are generally more efficient. Non-DI motors get gas in the oil too. I change my oil regularly and I'm not worried about it. I do run an oil catch can because there is no fuel spray on the back of the intake valve with a DI engine. I'd probably run one on a 3.6 too, just to help keep the intake cleaner.
All that being said non-DI motors are 1000% easier to change injectors. Changing injectors on a non-DI motor is easier than changing spark plugs lol.

@OrneryBear Both motors are great. I think it comes down to where you live (elevation favors turbos), how you drive and what you like. I even like the etorque on both engines. I don't find it complicated at all and the etorque battery is warrantied for 8 years. I wouldn't walk away from a good find because it had etorque. I also wouldn't walk away from one that had etorque.

Ya we don't live at elevation currently, but we might after in a few years. We also tend to end up at elevation for vacations whether that's snowboarding or summer natty park visits, so it's a major plus of the turbo. My brother in law moved out to colorado 6 years ago. I kept telling him to get something with a turbo like since he'd be in the mountains 100% of the time, and he wouldn't listen and bought an NA subaru. Boy did he regret that.

I'm hoping to drive the diesel and 6spd this weekend at a local dealer since i've driven the 2.0. I'm hoping after that it at least narrows down the options to one or two just based on driving dynamics.

I'm definitely confused why DI would wash the cylinders any worse than an old honda engine, which was great. Those, while not considered direct injection, had the injectors entering the combustion chamber almost directly, so I don't see much of a difference.

 

[OrneryBear]

The manual is a POS. The 3.6 is "ok' but is a gas guzzler. I've owned two JLs and one JT Gladiator.

The day I drove an auto 3.6l. I traded the manual. It is like it's not even the same car. Do yourself a favor and avoid the manual.

Once they got rid of the eTorque on the 2.0. I traded the Gladiator for my 2.0 Willys XR.

The 2.0 w/ XR takes my vote. Feels like it has way more power where you need it. Don't have exp. with the diesel but it has a bad rep and complicated.

Here's my 2.0 XR.

I'm pretty read up on the pros and cons of the motors, I'm just wondering about working on them. Did you ever work on your 3.6 or 2.0?

That said, did you just not like the clutch feel of the manual, or the gearing? If I go with the manual I'm swapping the clutch out for a CF2 and fixing all that.

 

[Cutterone]

I'm just thinking if it's just the clutch I can fix that. It seems like the newest CF2 clutch is pretty good, but again, since there is no REAL data on the issue, who knows. I'm in agreement with you and the 2.0t is looking great to me right now.

I've had the newest version of the CF2 in my 2021 Sahara for a few days now and it really transform the Jeep and driving experience. It is rated to handle almost 200 ft/lbs more torque than the 3.6 puts down so I'm expecting it to last the life of the Jeep, but only death and taxes are guaranteed so...

 

[Maverick909]

Id go the willy's with the 4.88 gear option. 3.6L 6 speed

 

[OrneryBear]

I've had the newest version of the CF2 in my 2021 Sahara for a few days now and it really transform the Jeep and driving experience. It is rated to handle almost 200 ft/lbs more torque than the 3.6 puts down so I'm expecting it to last the life of the Jeep, but only death and taxes are guaranteed so...

That's awesome to hear. I've had some cars with really high clamping pressure plates with solid disks for high hp/tq applications. They take some getting used to drive, but if you don't abuse/slip them they can last a very long time. The CF2 is not that aggressive so it should be great for you long term. Here's hoping.

 

[OrneryBear]

Id go the willy's with the 4.88 gear option. 3.6L 6 speed

sadly I'm almost positive you can't order a willys with the 4.88 gears. That's ok because if I go manual willys, i'll throw a d44 in the front with a locker, and i'll regear to 4.56 or 4.88 depending on tire size down the road.

 

[bondijoe]

I like the 2.0 in my 4xe, but more importantly another vote for Sarge with tan leather. If I got a Sarge Rubicon I would also remove the red stickers or swap for black as others have done.

 

[Cutterone]

That's awesome to hear. I've had some cars with really high clamping pressure plates with solid disks for high hp/tq applications. They take some getting used to drive, but if you don't abuse/slip them they can last a very long time. The CF2 is not that aggressive so it should be great for you long term. Here's hoping.

Yeah the uptake is quick but super smooth power transition compared to the jerky vague OEM clutch. Pedal is significantly harder but in a good way if that makes sense, will lighten up a bit as she breaks in. It really makes the Jeep feel more powerful, feels like it pulls harder and smoother from under 2k RPMS...

 

[OhioJeeper]

Get the 8/85 extended warranty for about $1200, get the auto. Having the 2.0, 3.6, and 3.6 eTorque, I'd get the 2.0 if I bought another. Good power and range, more room.

 

[OrneryBear]

Get the 8/85 extended warranty for about $1200, get the auto. Having the 2.0, 3.6, and 3.6 eTorque, I'd get the 2.0 if I bought another. Good power and range, more room.

thanks neighbor!

 

[OhioJeeper]

thanks neighbor!

You're welcome, you're 30 minutes away.

 

[Tncdrew]

Agreed, the 3.6 intake is very easy to remove, but not quite as easy as not having to remove it at all
Turbo is 100% a wear item, but they last a long time. It's not like brakes or belts.
I don't buy into the hype about DI gas washing the oil. DI engines are generally more efficient. Non-DI motors get gas in the oil too. I change my oil regularly and I'm not worried about it. I do run an oil catch can because there is no fuel spray on the back of the intake valve with a DI engine. I'd probably run one on a 3.6 too, just to help keep the intake cleaner.
All that being said non-DI motors are 1000% easier to change injectors. Changing injectors on a non-DI motor is easier than changing spark plugs lol.

@OrneryBear Both motors are great. I think it comes down to where you live (elevation favors turbos), how you drive and what you like. I even like the etorque on both engines. I don't find it complicated at all and the etorque battery is warrantied for 8 years. I wouldn't walk away from a good find because it had etorque. I also wouldn't walk away from one that had etorque.

Agreed, the 3.6 intake is very easy to remove, but not quite as easy as not having to remove it at all
Turbo is 100% a wear item, but they last a long time. It's not like brakes or belts.
I don't buy into the hype about DI gas washing the oil. DI engines are generally more efficient. Non-DI motors get gas in the oil too. I change my oil regularly and I'm not worried about it. I do run an oil catch can because there is no fuel spray on the back of the intake valve with a DI engine. I'd probably run one on a 3.6 too, just to help keep the intake cleaner.
All that being said non-DI motors are 1000% easier to change injectors. Changing injectors on a non-DI motor is easier than changing spark plugs lol.

@OrneryBear Both motors are great. I think it comes down to where you live (elevation favors turbos), how you drive and what you like. I even like the etorque on both engines. I don't find it complicated at all and the etorque battery is warrantied for 8 years. I wouldn't walk away from a good find because it had etorque. I also wouldn't walk away from one that had etorque.

Great points oldcjguy...
An interesting thing I noticed about catch cans (which I agree is a great addition the 2.0)...
5 years ago I installed one on my '09 MX-5 Miata when I supercharged it. It's a port injected engine that I thought might benefit from the can due to the increased supercharger induced cylinder pressures.
Just sold the car, and in 5 years, not a drop of oil in that can...
In contrast, I had (sold earlier this year) a 2016 Ram 1500 hemi, also port injected, that I installed a can on very early in its life.
The hemi deposited nearly a 1/4 cup of oil in that can every 1500 miles! And it was a perfectly running engine.
Just some observations....
But I digress, back to the topic ?

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