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wheel frustrations

Tank the Jeep

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what backspace on those wheels?
Not sure. I ordered AEV Borah wheels for the JL. I went to Rubitrux in Boone NC to see different wheels and how they fit. Like you, I didn’t want my wheels sticking out. Is “poke” the official term for that? It should be. Anyway, I narrowed down between the AEV Borah and the Jeep beadlocks. The Jeep beadlocks would have been a similar fit. I went with the Borah because they were cheaper and I can get the beadlock rings later. I love the fit and trust AEV engineering.

Jeep Wrangler JL wheel frustrations 6F009CBE-5FF0-4C05-AB3B-F5591DB4E36A
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Samister

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Not sure. I ordered AEV Borah wheels for the JL. I went to Rubitrux in Boone NC to see different wheels and how they fit. Like you, I didn’t want my wheels sticking out. Is “poke” the official term for that? It should be. Anyway, I narrowed down between the AEV Borah and the Jeep beadlocks. The Jeep beadlocks would have been a similar fit. I went with the Borah because they were cheaper and I can get the beadlock rings later. I love the fit and trust AEV engineering.

6F009CBE-5FF0-4C05-AB3B-F5591DB4E36A.jpeg
That looks like a perfect factory setup! what tire size did you end up going with? Do you have more pictures...
 

Tank the Jeep

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That looks like a perfect factory setup! what tire size did you end up going with? Do you have more pictures...
I run KO2s 37 x 12.50 x 17. The bead is on the inside. I’ll eventually get the beadlocks, which are $140 per wheel. The Borah is offered in machined as wel as two shades of black. Maybe bronze too. AEV uses the stock lug nuts rather than the typical aftermarket taper.


Jeep Wrangler JL wheel frustrations 73698E07-98EF-4528-BD72-D531A1B8F6B7
Jeep Wrangler JL wheel frustrations 12F3EC74-25DD-48B4-B565-33DC273CBB7F
 

Anthony120

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I was in a similar situation when ordering wheels and tires but ultimately went with Method 313's in a +25 offset because I was looking for wheels and tires that didn't stick out an inch or two past the fenders (and they look great but I am biased). I was stuck between these and Mopar slotted wheels (77072494AB), but after about a week I'm glad I went Methods. Theres not much options the the + offset range but there are a few options from Mopar that would meet your needs. The pics below are with 315 K02's but I almost went with Toyo open country AT3's in the 35x11.50 size as it would pull the tread in about 1/2 inch. Another option would be Rubicon takeoffs with Toyo open country at3 35x11.50. The narrower tire can be mounted on rubicon takoffs and should not "poke" past the fenders. There are a few threads for the Toyo's on here, some searching should get you pics.
Jeep Wrangler JL wheel frustrations IMG_3337
Jeep Wrangler JL wheel frustrations IMG_3336
 

Tank the Jeep

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I was in a similar situation when ordering wheels and tires but ultimately went with Method 313's in a +25 offset because I was looking for wheels and tires that didn't stick out an inch or two past the fenders (and they look great but I am biased). I was stuck between these and Mopar slotted wheels (77072494AB), but after about a week I'm glad I went Methods. Theres not much options the the + offset range but there are a few options from Mopar that would meet your needs. The pics below are with 315 K02's but I almost went with Toyo open country AT3's in the 35x11.50 size as it would pull the tread in about 1/2 inch. Another option would be Rubicon takeoffs with Toyo open country at3 35x11.50. The narrower tire can be mounted on rubicon takoffs and should not "poke" past the fenders. There are a few threads for the Toyo's on here, some searching should get you pics.
IMG_3337.jpg
IMG_3336.jpg
Looks great. During the long wait for the diesel, I almost went with a two door just so I could get a manual transmission. The KO2s are great. I went to Uwharrie a couple times. No issues with traction, even on the badge of honor trial, Dickey Bell. Plus they are quiet. Great tire.
 

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jeepoch

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@jeepoch , I considered +25's too. Primary reason is that I hate salt spray all over the side of the Jeep. I grew up in MN, and back then salt disintegrated everything if you didn't wash it off right away. I ended up with a 0 offset. More choices, and a wider stance is safer off road for sure.

Ross,

I totally see your point, but also with a caveat. With your wheels closer to the inside of your Jeep (with the more positive offset), doesn't that channel even more salt to your undercarriage and axle shafts? In addition, the further towards the outside of the Jeep (more negative offset), the more clearance to steer and flex away from the inner well walls.

Channelling water, mud, salt or whatever underneath, seems (to me) to be the worse situation of two evils, I can easily spray off the exterior, but much harder to crawl underneath to spray the under-sides, especially the brake assembly, axle ends, steering linkage and suspension components. Doesn't mean I don't try, but pick your disintegration poison.

The little bit of extra 'schmutz' (as my wife calls it), gives the Jeep a little more trail appeal. I seem to get even more waves before I hose anything down.

For me getting Snoopy dirty is what it's all about. The benefits of the wider stance and extra clearance when off-road absolutely far outweighs any on-road 'factory' look.

Besides any and all of that reasoning, my preference is the extra capability and bad-ass look it gives my Sport.

Jay

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MEHillwalker80

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To the OP. I feel your frustration. I live in a state where poke will technically prevent you vehicle passing the annual State Safety Inspection.. You do quite often see Jeeps and other vehicles running around with wheel poke. I have talked to a few of the owners who either use a sketchy inspection station, or put normal wheels back on once a year in order to be able to pass the state inspection. Legally, a state lawman can stop you and have you towed if your vehicle is found to be in violation. I doubt that this occurs, but it could. But get this, registered street rods can operate without fenders here.
 
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MyDaughters20JL

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AEV Borah with 37 x 12.50 x 17.
Jeep Wrangler JL wheel frustrations IMG_20200801_200022
Interesting: looks like 37x12.5 work perfect (at least for you) with a +25 offset (according to mfgs web site)

im thinking that anything in the neighborhood of that offset will be good with 35x12.5 as well
 

Anthony120

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Two more things to consider when choosing offset is the scrub radius and the clearance when flexing. Scrub radius is a bit of a rabbit hole but there are many calculators available. If possible, I try to stay as close to factory as possible. I think engineering explained has a great YouTube video that talks about the pros and cons. As for clearance when flexed, I have seen quite a few Jeep’s with aev wheels on 37s and the tires tuck under the fender and do not contact the fenders outer lip. Seeing a 37 fit on +25 wheels was a deciding factor as that’s natural progression from someone who just put 35s on last week lol. Not completely, but slightly, ruining the factory scrub radius was more icing on the cake for me.
 
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MyDaughters20JL

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And....You know the day is screwed up when you actually respond to your own post. I just thought of the fact that I’ve got a Rubicon and not a standard sport so even with a +25 I’d still be looking at an inch and a half to 2 inches beyond want my current stock Rubicon tires are, correct?
 

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Anthony120

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And....You know the day is screwed up when you actually respond to your own post. I just thought of the fact that I’ve got a Rubicon and not a standard sport so even with a +25 I’d still be looking at an inch and a half to 2 inches beyond want my current stock Rubicon tires are, correct?
My understanding is three things are going to increase "poke" or how far the tire's sidewall extends past the fender.

1) By going from 44mm to 25mm offset you will move the tire out 19mm (3/4").

2) The tire will also move out half of the increased tire width. So by going from your stock 285 (11.25") to a 12.5" tire you will move the tire out 5/8".

3) The sidewall will move out about 1/4" for every inch increase in wheel width. So if you go from the stock 7.5" to a 8.5" wheel you gain about 1/4"

So yes, you are going to be about 1-5/8" beyond where you are now.
 
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MyDaughters20JL

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My understanding is three things are going to increase "poke" or how far the tire's sidewall extends past the fender.

1) By going from 44mm to 25mm offset you will move the tire out 19mm (3/4").

2) The tire will also move out half of the increased tire width. So by going from your stock 285 (11.25") to a 12.5" tire you will move the tire out 5/8".

3) The sidewall will move out about 1/4" for every inch increase in wheel width. So if you go from the stock 7.5" to a 8.5" wheel you gain about 1/4"

So yes, you are going to be about 1-5/8" beyond where you are now.
Definitely a lot to think about: I am me end up looking for something in the range of 35 to 44 just to keep it back inside the fender a little bit
 

Lapis

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When considering poke, you have to also consider wheel width, not just offset. The stock 7.5" wide wheels @ +44mm would have the same backspacing as 8.5" +30mm (~6" backspace) but the new wheels are ~1"wider, so they'd stick out ~1" further.

Stock wheels 17x7.5+44 are about 8.5" wide overall with ~6" backspace, so 6" on the inside of the hub, 2.5" outside.

A 17x8.5+25 is ~5.75" backspace. ~9.5" wide overall, so 5.75" inside, 3.75" outside (1.25" further outside the vehicle)

A 17x9+18 is ~5.75" backspace ~10" overall, 5.75" inside, 4.25" outside (1.75" further outside the vehicle)

The rubicon axles are 1.5" wider than the sport, so that's only .75" on either side of the vehicle
 

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Definitely a lot to think about: I am me end up looking for something in the range of 35 to 44 just to keep it back inside the fender a little bit
Unless you plan to stay w/ the narrower 7.5" wheel I doubt you'd find offsets at +35 or higher. Your Rubicon will have a nice fit at the fender w/ those 8.5" +25s, that seems to be the best setup for Rubicons that want minimal fender poke but still decent suspension travel.
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