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Trade-In Question

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ToPar9

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Yep

Absolutely correct! If I end up selling/trading my Recon for a 392 I will remove as much after market add ons except for the lift and tires. I would keep my winch, off-roading lights, and even the extra skids... Dealer’s or even private buyers would not give me much if anything for these adds.
It was more sarcasm, based on the lifted Sport with 80k+ miles for 30k.
I mean, I get it. With the dealer cash they are offering right now, I’m sure margins are a little tight. Inflated trade-in values when closer to MSRP, play the number game.
5198 dealer discount
3750 manufacturer rebate
Combined that equals true trade value.
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Oh, I was also told Wranglers aren’t sought after.
It also bothered me that they had Doc fees listed twice. The sales dude, who looked like he was from Miami Vice circa 1985, tried to explain to me that’s how they break it down. I did the math on paper in front of him, he says, oh, I don’t get into the details. I leave that to them.
<points towards the guys behind the glass>
 
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I always work the numbers on the new vehicle and the trade separately. I go in already knowing where I need to be based on realistic numbers I've run via research. Yes, get Carmax or whoever to give you a quote before you go the dealership. This can help with negotiations. Based on what you wrote, 34 sounds like it might be reasonable. I always try to make it work at the dealership so I can get the new car tax break. Remember if you buy a vehicle for 50k and they give you tradein credit of 35K, you only pay Texas car sales tax (6.25%) on the difference or 15k. If you sell your vehicle to Carmax and then walk into the dealer to buy, you have to pay the sales tax on all 50k. Depending on your numbers this can effect the total cost of this transaction by multiple thousands of dollars.
My bad, I missed your response somehow. Up a few spots, I mentioned the Tax break.
To me, it makes it so much easier to sell/buy at the same time/place.
I literally just received an email telling me the same thing. The dealership will match an offer from Carvana, if have it evaluated.
 

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FYI - Employee Pricing is back on Gladiators. Every Sport, Sport S, Overland and North Edition shows 10% off MSRP, before any dealer discounts. Rubicon and Mojave are excluded.

FCA must be trying to hit certain production and sales targets. They did the same in the 2nd half of August.
 
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FYI - Employee Pricing is back on Gladiators. Every Sport, Sport S, Overland and North Edition shows 10% off MSRP, before any dealer discounts. Rubicon and Mojave are excluded.

FCA must be trying to hit certain production and sales quotas. They did the same in the 2nd half of August.
They should add rebates. Last I checked, nada, other than military discount for 750. (I think it’s 750)
Vehicles I’ve looked at have at least 1k with 500 bonus cash. (Most have 2-4K, with 500-1500 bonus cash and dealer discounts up to 6k)
Looked at an Audi A5 Sportback with 10,995 in rebates, discounts, etc.
 

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aldo98229

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The rebates in the luxury market are totally out of control. They have been for years.

It is pointless to buy a luxury vehicle any more; most people lease them. The vehicles are so complex that the repair bills become astronomical once the warranty ends.

Wranglers are getting to that point, unfortunately.
 
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The rebates in the luxury market are totally out of control. They have been for years.

It is pointless to buy a luxury vehicle any more; most people lease them. The vehicles are too complex and the repair bills once the warranty ends are astronomical.

Wranglers are getting to that point, unfortunately.
I looked because of the crazy rebate/incentive. Repair bills are a bit worrisome with the luxuries.
Unfortunately, leasing makes zero sense to me.
5k down 6-700+ a month. Mileage restrictions, 7/8k+ a year, 5 down, 36 months you’ve chalked up 25-30k. And don’t go over 36k in mileage. .25, or more a mile over.
At times, I drive quite a bit for work. I don’t want to park it in the garage for a month to compensate for mileage.
 

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Taxes. Biggest reason I don’t want to sell to Carvana or locally. I’m not sure it’s the same way everywhere.
35,000 - new car price
34,500 - trade value
You pay taxes on the difference. (500 - $31)
Out the door at 35,031
Tax on 35,000, (2,200 approx)
37,200 - out the door.
34,500 + 2,700
Now I’d need to find a buyer who’d pay 37,200, just to cover the taxes.
At the dealership, I’d be more likely to squeeze another 500 out of them to break even. (No tax)
Lots of what if’s.
Maybe I should spend 2k - spacer lift and tires, then get rid of it.
29k for a Lifted JKU Sport with 83k miles.
1600534433061.png
Never been a factor for me as CA doesn't have the trade-in tax exemption. Certainly something to factor into the equation. At the end of the day though, how much time and energy do you spend saving a few hundred or even a few thousand dollars? That time spent is an opportunity cost that you'll never get back - I can always make more money, I can't make more time. One reason I don't do the grind thing, I just determine if I'm ok with the deal or not then try to move onto the next thing. Then I spend my time figuring out what mods I want to do :LOL:
 

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I hardly ever sell my cars privately, but this time I did - it's a huge seller's market. I took my dealer's trade-in offer, grossed it up for the tax shield I would be forgoing, and than added $2K to that number. I took some time composing a compelling ad and listed it on Craigslist. I had over a dozen responses in the first 24 hours and sold it easily. [I think that I underpriced it]. Three weeks later, I'm still getting inquiries. I got 79% of my original purchase price. If I took the mods that I made into account, I still got 60% back. This was after five years of ownership from new.

For the record, Carvana offered me a full $8K less than I ultimately got selling it myself.

Bottom line: try selling it yourself; you will do MUCH better.

As a humorous aside, Autotrader would not run my ad because their computer detected profanity. I had written something like: "I priced this very fairly. No dickering please."
 
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I have sold all but one of my Wranglers privately. They sell fast and you get top dollar.
 

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@nostatic
I get what you are putting down.
When I was much younger and single, I financed a Mustang GT for 84 months so I would have more money to go out with each month. I may have paid that salesman's mortgage that month.
I have patience and it's fun to haggle. It's a game for me.
 

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@nostatic
I get what you are putting down.
When I was much younger and single, I financed a Mustang GT for 84 months so I would have more money to go out with each month. I may have paid that salesman's mortgage that month.
I have patience and it's fun to haggle. It's a game for me.
Totally respect that - some dealers treat it as a game as well so that mindset can serve you well. Haggling just drives me nuts, and believe me, I don't have to travel far to reach Looneyville...
 
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Totally respect that - some dealers treat it as a game as well so that mindset can serve you well. Haggling just drives me nuts, and believe me, I don't have to travel far to reach Looneyville...
10-years ago, I hated it. It's not necessary. Can you imagine going to the grocery store, standing in line for 2-hours, arguing about a gallon of milk with a starting price of 6.99?
I've learned patience over the years. I plan out my time to go, and I will sit there all day if needed.
I feel bad for women. Single Mom - I can only afford 350.00 a month. Dude sold her a used Caliber or something similar for 350/month for 72 months. The car was stickered at like 19,900. Holy crap ... I wanted to step in and help her out. The car was stickered at 18000 or so. That was like 11/12% interest. I should have asked the guy if he would give me a big discount since he raked her over the coals.
Business idea! Professional Haggler - I will go spend my day at the dealership of your choice.
You want car 'X' for 50,000, I get you that car for 45. You pay me 50% of what I saved you. :LOL:
3-4 times a month, sitting decent.
 

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The reason most of us are willing to haggle is because, unlike a gallon of milk, the savings on a $50,000 vehicle make it worth our time.

The more those Jeep prices keep going up, the more opportunity there is to save.
 
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The reason most of us are willing to haggle is because, unlike a gallon of milk, the savings on a $50,000 vehicle make it worth our time.

The more those Jeep prices keep going up, the more opportunity there is to save.
I agree with you, on all accounts. To go one step further - by saving 2500, that's 40-50 bucks a month. That pays my gas for the month. Throw an extra 100 or 2 on it, and it helps when I trade it in 2-3 years down the road. I get bored with vehicles too.
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