tomk62
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roaniecowpony
Well-Known Member
Well, that explains it. The guy that owns that forum doesn't allow anyone to post links to this site. I guess this site reciprocates the favor.
JeepinPete
Well-Known Member
When I got my Jeep a few years back, I was half a dozen times on my ride home from work. The factory doesn't do a very good job at it. Aimed the headlights down and that went away. The cutoff on the LEDs is very good so you should see it on the pavement. Fast forward to earlier this year. I installed a 2" lift. Haven't adjusted the headlights, but got flashed last night. Much more night time driving this time of year, so not really a surprise. Takes all of five minutes to do.
Pete
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kurt13
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Thank you everyone for all of the replies.
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Flip
Well-Known Member
I turned down my new Lasfit LED's 2 3/4 turns, they are perfect now. I didn't get flashed even on rural back roads. ?
73TAWM
Well-Known Member
21 Rubicon with factory halogens, I could not see much with them but still got flashed. I swapped them out with Oracle Occulus led and now people hate me. But I can see. I feel bad and even lowered them more than what was suggested since I have it lifted but they still flash me. I think part of it is a jeep thing since the lights are so close together they appear even brighter.
Slippery Pete
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I got flashed quite a bit in my Willys XR. Adjusted them lower using a tutorial video for the proper height and got flashed a lot less. I still get flashed from time to time tho.
TrentYoung
Well-Known Member
And my 2024 Rubicon X has the LED's and the are fabulously bright. But then I added Baja Designs Squadrons in place of the Mopar LED fog lamps and it will literally light up the world.
five9dak
Well-Known Member
Modern vehicles where everything is a cute ute with headlights at the top of their hoodline, combined with LED headlights is absolutely brutal to drivers of actual "cars".
If you are getting flashed, consider aiming down. Rember at speed and with passengers /cargo your jeep is probably squatting some and tilting the front up . The 2dr JLs I see rolling down the road are usually squatting at speed for example.
If you are getting flashed, consider aiming down. Rember at speed and with passengers /cargo your jeep is probably squatting some and tilting the front up . The 2dr JLs I see rolling down the road are usually squatting at speed for example.
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storyg
Active Member
To be, or not to be - too bright.
Using appropriate headlamps for street & highway use. Properly aimed.
Factory headlamps seem to not be precisely adjusted. LED headlamps in particular, can be a real hardship to oncoming drivers or pedestrians if the LED's sharp cutoff is not correctly aimed. We can indeed correct the aim ourselves, but it takes more than a few minutes to do the task, right.
As a quicky, we could adjust without being precise to get the beams lowered. But without setting up to do the job correctly, we will probably just have left and right headlamps not working in an optimum manner for any of us. For those facing our vehicles lights, they might no longer be blinded if you got the aim lowered enough, but are both of the headlamps working together in Low and in High beam modes to provide the best light for we, the drivers?
Few shops actually have the rather expensive headlamp adjusting equipment. The nice thing about the modern adjusters is that they eliminate the need to line up a vehicle to a large blank vertical surface wall. But, the method of aiming headlamps at a wall, absolutely works fine if done properly. We can easily find the procedure on the Internet. It doesn't require a Rocket Scientist to perform. It does require truly vertical, blank and light-colored surface with the vehicle placed at a fairly precise distance, as-square to that wall surface as you can practically make it. We don't have to be overly precise but don't park the vehicle with one headlamp say, like a foot closer than the other; that won't quite allow us to do a proper adjustment.
Besides performing wall-aiming with the vehicle on a level surface, the act of making sure the proper tire pressure isn't talked about in some documented procedures I have read. It makes sense to have the tires reasonably close to the proper PSI, right?
If any of us have added a lift kit and uber large tires, then you're going to have to determine yourself if these changes are settled into what the headlights will be aiming at, for road use. It is likely the lamps just went out of vertical alignment when a lift kit was installed. Same might happen with some larger diameter tires. check and adjust the lamps if necessary. If we are doing things completely copasetic with your DOT and SAE standards-met, headlamps for street and highway use, the center of the headlamps beam-surface has to be no lower than 24, and no higher than 54 inches. which you're totally likely to be within unless this is a Monster-JEEP build of some sort.
Aiming done properly, also ensures that that a vehicle ahead of us in our lane WITH appropriate vehicle to vehicle spacing, won't be blasting photon emissions from our headlights into the windows and rear-view mirrors of the vehicle ahead. Maybe not true for a low rider ahead of you but they probably aren't traveling with the body above the lowest part of their tire rims in that case. Regardless of appropriate for the speed, spacing of vehicles between us and them.
About the only problem that a properly aimed JEEP can give any of us is when we try to tow a tongue-heavy load on the rear hitch. 4 door JEEPS have advantage over the shorter wheelbase 2 door JEEPS but even a lot of towing on the 4 door models are seen with a not-so appropriate (or downright dangerous) setup where the nose of the JEEP is too high for safe, higher speed driving. With a great loss of tire-surface braking or turning control at higher speeds. Naturally, the headlamp beams are going to rise, potentially enough to cause oncoming drivers and pedestrians to be very unhappy. Sometimes it's just the right thing to do with a 3/4 ton, long bed pickup to be the best-minimum-safe choice for some of the towing needs. Bearing in mind that adding passengers and in-vehicle weight, besides additional weight in a JT or other truck bed, there goes the headlight aim too.
Finally, yes, too bright of any type of lighting device can be too harsh. But for well engineered reflector or projector headlamps, this should not present a problem to oncoming folks. They might still see that your white-white or white with slightly bluish tint, legal headlights within approriate lumens output are brighter than the next guys. Especially if the next guy has ye olde incandescent, sealed beam filament headlamps. Even halogen filled, filament replaceable bulbs or within sealed beam units will be notably yellow versus some other lighting elements, including LED's. We might find some LED headlamps that have some insanely high level of lumens claimed. And if these flame torch lamps are used, aiming might not make them good enough for oncoming folks. Especially that state trooper parked in the highways medium.
Gene
Using appropriate headlamps for street & highway use. Properly aimed.
Factory headlamps seem to not be precisely adjusted. LED headlamps in particular, can be a real hardship to oncoming drivers or pedestrians if the LED's sharp cutoff is not correctly aimed. We can indeed correct the aim ourselves, but it takes more than a few minutes to do the task, right.
As a quicky, we could adjust without being precise to get the beams lowered. But without setting up to do the job correctly, we will probably just have left and right headlamps not working in an optimum manner for any of us. For those facing our vehicles lights, they might no longer be blinded if you got the aim lowered enough, but are both of the headlamps working together in Low and in High beam modes to provide the best light for we, the drivers?
Few shops actually have the rather expensive headlamp adjusting equipment. The nice thing about the modern adjusters is that they eliminate the need to line up a vehicle to a large blank vertical surface wall. But, the method of aiming headlamps at a wall, absolutely works fine if done properly. We can easily find the procedure on the Internet. It doesn't require a Rocket Scientist to perform. It does require truly vertical, blank and light-colored surface with the vehicle placed at a fairly precise distance, as-square to that wall surface as you can practically make it. We don't have to be overly precise but don't park the vehicle with one headlamp say, like a foot closer than the other; that won't quite allow us to do a proper adjustment.
Besides performing wall-aiming with the vehicle on a level surface, the act of making sure the proper tire pressure isn't talked about in some documented procedures I have read. It makes sense to have the tires reasonably close to the proper PSI, right?
If any of us have added a lift kit and uber large tires, then you're going to have to determine yourself if these changes are settled into what the headlights will be aiming at, for road use. It is likely the lamps just went out of vertical alignment when a lift kit was installed. Same might happen with some larger diameter tires. check and adjust the lamps if necessary. If we are doing things completely copasetic with your DOT and SAE standards-met, headlamps for street and highway use, the center of the headlamps beam-surface has to be no lower than 24, and no higher than 54 inches. which you're totally likely to be within unless this is a Monster-JEEP build of some sort.
Aiming done properly, also ensures that that a vehicle ahead of us in our lane WITH appropriate vehicle to vehicle spacing, won't be blasting photon emissions from our headlights into the windows and rear-view mirrors of the vehicle ahead. Maybe not true for a low rider ahead of you but they probably aren't traveling with the body above the lowest part of their tire rims in that case. Regardless of appropriate for the speed, spacing of vehicles between us and them.
About the only problem that a properly aimed JEEP can give any of us is when we try to tow a tongue-heavy load on the rear hitch. 4 door JEEPS have advantage over the shorter wheelbase 2 door JEEPS but even a lot of towing on the 4 door models are seen with a not-so appropriate (or downright dangerous) setup where the nose of the JEEP is too high for safe, higher speed driving. With a great loss of tire-surface braking or turning control at higher speeds. Naturally, the headlamp beams are going to rise, potentially enough to cause oncoming drivers and pedestrians to be very unhappy. Sometimes it's just the right thing to do with a 3/4 ton, long bed pickup to be the best-minimum-safe choice for some of the towing needs. Bearing in mind that adding passengers and in-vehicle weight, besides additional weight in a JT or other truck bed, there goes the headlight aim too.
Finally, yes, too bright of any type of lighting device can be too harsh. But for well engineered reflector or projector headlamps, this should not present a problem to oncoming folks. They might still see that your white-white or white with slightly bluish tint, legal headlights within approriate lumens output are brighter than the next guys. Especially if the next guy has ye olde incandescent, sealed beam filament headlamps. Even halogen filled, filament replaceable bulbs or within sealed beam units will be notably yellow versus some other lighting elements, including LED's. We might find some LED headlamps that have some insanely high level of lumens claimed. And if these flame torch lamps are used, aiming might not make them good enough for oncoming folks. Especially that state trooper parked in the highways medium.
Gene
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JL headlight adjustment takes 10 seconds per light. Many YouTube videos explain how to do it.
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