Thermostats w/Other Temperatures availability?

[roaniecowpony]

Anyone know of other temperature thermostat availability?

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[mwilk012]

You’ll just turn on the engine light and put the whole system in a pissed off status.

 

[Willys41]

If you are trying to lower your engine temps by replacing the thermostat its NOT going to help
The factory thermostat starts to open at 188 to 190 degrees and is fully open at about 212
The problem with the wrangler cooling system is the radiator fan comes on at about 15% fan speed a 221 and about 75% fan speed at 231 degrees and under extreme lodes you may see 235 degrees or higher
If you think traveling down the road at 60mph you are getting lots of are passing through the radiator. YOU ARE NOT. The wrangler radiator core is very tight and free flowing will not pass though
After months of trying different things including a pusher fan (THE PUSHER FAN MADE NO DEFERENCE IN TEMPS) I came across RPM Extreme JL fan controller. ITS A GAME CHANGER
My jeep now runs between 190 to 195 most of the time and on a long hard pull up a 10 mile hill topped out at 212 degrees
I ordered mine with the + bypass that will turn on the fan full blast at any time
Here is the link

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx

 

[roaniecowpony]

If you are trying to lower your engine temps by replacing the thermostat its NOT going to help
The factory thermostat starts to open at 188 to 190 degrees and is fully open at about 212
The problem with the wrangler cooling system is the radiator fan comes on at about 15% fan speed a 221 and about 75% fan speed at 231 degrees and under extreme lodes you may see 235 degrees or higher
If you think traveling down the road at 60mph you are getting lots of are passing through the radiator. YOU ARE NOT. The wrangler radiator core is very tight and free flowing will not pass though
After months of trying different things including a pusher fan (THE PUSHER FAN MADE NO DEFERENCE IN TEMPS) I came across RPM Extreme JL fan controller. ITS A GAME CHANGER
My jeep now runs between 190 to 195 most of the time and on a long hard pull up a 10 mile hill topped out at 212 degrees
I ordered mine with the + bypass that will turn on the fan full blast at any time
Here is the link

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx

Larry,
I think I mentioned to you that I have a Mishimoto radiator, gladiator fan, gladiator mesh, and I'm getting that fan controller you have, as I mentioned in your thread. I'm looking for that last piece of the system to preempt a temperature excursion that overshoots. A 10F lower thermostat would give a little more margin in the system.

 

[roaniecowpony]

and....Many thanks for that information you provided on your temperatures and the controller. ?

 

[Willys41]

Ya
I new it was you. Put I am just sooo happy with the fan controller after 6 months I cant stop telling people about it
Lower coolant temps
Lower oil temps
What supersized me was half the amount of oil that the oil catch can collected
Today after 1000 miles with the new updated PCV valve I will drain my catch can and see if it made any difference in the amount of oil collected
In the beginning of my search for a solution I also looked for a thermostat with a lower temp put was unable to find one

 

[roaniecowpony]

Ya
I new it was you. Put I am just sooo happy with the fan controller after 6 months I cant stop telling people about it
Lower coolant temps
Lower oil temps
What supersized me was half the amount of oil that the oil catch can collected
Today after 1000 miles with the new updated PCV valve I will drain my catch can and see if it made any difference in the amount of oil collected
In the beginning of my search for a solution I also looked for a thermostat with a lower temp put was unable to find one

On the catch can, it makes sense. With the high oil temperatures I've seen (up to at least 245F), the volatility oil is higher than lower temps. Keeping the coolant temps down keeps the oil temps down.

 

[mwilk012]

Larry,
I think I mentioned to you that I have a Mishimoto radiator, gladiator fan, gladiator mesh, and I'm getting that fan controller you have, as I mentioned in your thread. I'm looking for that last piece of the system to preempt a temperature excursion that overshoots. A 10F lower thermostat would give a little more margin in the system.

It wouldn’t, because that is not what determines peak temperature. Thermal input and cooling capacity are unaffected by thermostat operating temperature.

 

[roaniecowpony]

It wouldn’t, because that is not what determines peak temperature. Thermal input and cooling capacity are unaffected by thermostat operating temperature.

Well, I disagree. You are looking at it as a constant state issue. It is not that at all in a vehicle that changes speed and conditions all the time, as a jeep does while off road, or even on-road with up and down hills, etc. If the thermostat is open at a lower temperature and the vehicle has enough cooling capability at that time, the cooling system will take more heat energy to make it rise to a given temperature than if it starts at a higher temperature. Basically, if a gallon (or whatever our coolant capacity is) of coolant is at 185F it takes more energy to raise that volume of coolant to say 230F, than raising the same volume of 195F coolant to the same temperature (230F). That's called margin. It offers more time to get to an overheat condition. That can be the difference to get you up a hill or over an obstacle, etc. It works. Everyone that has ever changed a thermostat to a lower value knows it works.

 

[mwilk012]

Well, I disagree. You are looking at it as a constant state issue. It is not that at all in a vehicle that changes speed and conditions all the time, as a jeep does while off road, or even on-road with up and down hills, etc. If the thermostat is open at a lower temperature and the vehicle has enough cooling capability at that time, the cooling system will take more heat energy to make it rise to a given temperature than if it starts at a higher temperature. Basically, if a gallon (or whatever our coolant capacity is) of coolant is at 185F it takes more energy to raise that volume of coolant to say 230F, than raising the same volume of 195F coolant to the same temperature (230F). That's called margin. It offers more time to get to an overheat condition. That can be the difference to get you up a hill or over an obstacle, etc. It works. Everyone that has ever changed a thermostat to a lower value knows it works.

If you are capable of putting enough heat into a system to reach an overheat condition, then the cooler is undersized. Of course, I also disagree with the very premise that 230 is too hot.

Your theoretical is technically true. However, the operating temp when it matters (hot weather, towing, grade) is not at thermostat temp. It’s already past that point and in the area of being regulated by the radiator efficiency and differential temperature between atmospheric conditions and coolant temp.

 

[roaniecowpony]

If you are capable of putting enough heat into a system to reach an overheat condition, then the cooler is undersized. Of course, I also disagree with the very premise that 230 is too hot.

Your theoretical is technically true. However, the operating temp when it matters (hot weather, towing, grade) is not at thermostat temp. It’s already past that point and in the area of being regulated by the radiator efficiency and differential temperature between atmospheric conditions and coolant temp.

If you read back through this thread, you'll see that I have other parts to increase the cooling capacity of the system. Using a lower temperature thermostat to add margin for a short term high energy/temperature excursion, is not theory, it's demonstrated fact. If you want to debate the value of that margin, have at it. I still want that margin, regardless.

 

[Willys41]

I know you guy are talking about theoretical put with the Wrangler and Gladiator the cooling system is adequate in most cases except one thing
Almost NO air will free flow through the radiator
I new that the A/C running at full blast would run the radiator fan at high speed and the motor would run in the 190 degrees
I first tried mounting a large high flow high pressure pusher fan on the condenser put all the air would go through the condenser hit the radiator core and bounce off
Air will always take the path of least resistance and it was not through the core. The air hit the radiator and would shoot out the gap between the condenser and the radiator core
I installed the Mishimoto radiator with the pusher fan still installed hopping that it had a more open core and would pass more air through it. It is a great radiator PUT uses a similar core and is a 1/2 thicker creating more air resistance
The only way that I have found to keep the motor running cooler is to suck air through the core with the factory fan at a lower temp and higher speed with the RPM Extreme JL fan controller
I know I keep repeating my finding put after 6 months of running the fan controller I am extremely happy with the results

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