Swayloc or antirock experience?

[firedude]

Mines the JL with the Yeti track bar brace, been looking around haven’t seen anything on clearance issues from the arm to the brace…

I have the Steer Smarts (yeti) brace and no clearance issues.

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[Big Juan]

I have the Steer Smarts (yeti) brace and no clearance issues.

Thanks for the reply, good to hear no clearance issues!

 

[rsmwrangler]

I've tried different setups, stock sway bar with JKS Disconnects, Rubicon Sway bar with Evo no limits manual disconnect, front Antirock and currently on Front Swaylock. My Jeep is dual purpose, DD by weekdays and offroad toy by weekends . I'll say go Antirock if you trailer the Jeep or value more its offroad characterisitics more than the drive on the street, the reason for this the sway on the hwy will be a lot with the antirock, sure you can go heavy on the torsion bar but this will limit your shock travel. The standard rate works a lot better offroading, and the beauty of it is that you get a form of axel control when running trails as opposed to having an axel disconnected, it makes a big difference on a live axel when you drive a little faster or a lot faster in the dirt and you have to drive through ruts or make turns, etc not counting the torsion bar will apply more leverage to you wheels in any type of crawling situation. I loved my Antirock more than the axel been fully disconnected. Like somebody else said it's a simple install, price is not too bad, and it's set it and forget it, no need to stop to disconnect or reconnect, it cushions the ride on the street or dirt. My only personal peeve with it is the extra sway on the street which in itself didn't bothered me much as it did the same on the hwy at hwy speed, let alone when there is wind present. In my case with the .850 bar my travel was limited to 5/8" up and down compared when the axel was fully disconnected.

If you value offroad and want no sacrifices onroad, Swaylock is your answer. You get the benefits of the antirock in the dirt with the safety of the swaybar when it's connected. A bonus, Swaylock doesn't seem to limit the travel as i get the same extension or compression in my axel with the lever in fun mode compared to when i was fully disconnected. You have to stop to connect/reconnect though, (i have the manual lever version) but it only takes couple of seconds to do, you can go fancy if you wanted and get the version that uses air to engage/dissengage the 2nd bar, it's more money of course, also the install is not as simple as it's with the Antirock, is not bad just a little more involved than with the Antirock, but bar none if i knew about the Swaylock before i spent money on all the other setups i'd had, i'd have gone with the Swaylock straight up. With the Swaylock in the street mode the Jeep drives like it does on the stock connected sway bar. I think the rate on the main bar is actually a little higher than stock. Again, connecting/reconnecting is super simple, flick the lever and go have fun, it doesn't matter if you're flat or at any angle, walk towards the front flick the lever and go back to drive.

I haven't done anything in the rear because i haven't have a need for that. the rear stock sway bar works fine with Swaylock or Antirock in the front for a rig that serves DD duties and gets driven to the trail or anywhere. The rear setup with a swaylock or antirock is a bit more involved as well and i don't need that drama, but if i had a trail only rig that i trailer everywhere i would consider having the full setup, and in that case i'll do Antirock front/rear cause it's cheaper.

Hope it helps.

 

[Nicarague Joe]

I've tried different setups, stock sway bar with JKS Disconnects, Rubicon Sway bar with Evo no limits manual disconnect, front Antirock and currently on Front Swaylock. My Jeep is dual purpose, DD by weekdays and offroad toy by weekends . I'll say go Antirock if you trailer the Jeep or value more its offroad characterisitics more than the drive on the street, the reason for this the sway on the hwy will be a lot with the antirock, sure you can go heavy on the torsion bar but this will limit your shock travel. The standard rate works a lot better offroading, and the beauty of it is that you get a form of axel control when running trails as opposed to having an axel disconnected, it makes a big difference on a live axel when you drive a little faster or a lot faster in the dirt and you have to drive through ruts or make turns, etc not counting the torsion bar will apply more leverage to you wheels in any type of crawling situation. I loved my Antirock more than the axel been fully disconnected. Like somebody else said it's a simple install, price is not too bad, and it's set it and forget it, no need to stop to disconnect or reconnect, it cushions the ride on the street or dirt. My only personal peeve with it is the extra sway on the street which in itself didn't bothered me much as it did the same on the hwy at hwy speed, let alone when there is wind present. In my case with the .850 bar my travel was limited to 5/8" up and down compared when the axel was fully disconnected.

If you value offroad and want no sacrifices onroad, Swaylock is your answer. You get the benefits of the antirock in the dirt with the safety of the swaybar when it's connected. A bonus, Swaylock doesn't seem to limit the travel as i get the same extension or compression in my axel with the lever in fun mode compared to when i was fully disconnected. You have to stop to connect/reconnect though, (i have the manual lever version) but it only takes couple of seconds to do, you can go fancy if you wanted and get the version that uses air to engage/dissengage the 2nd bar, it's more money of course, also the install is not as simple as it's with the Antirock, is not bad just a little more involved than with the Antirock, but bar none if i knew about the Swaylock before i spent money on all the other setups i'd had, i'd have gone with the Swaylock straight up. With the Swaylock in the street mode the Jeep drives like it does on the stock connected sway bar. I think the rate on the main bar is actually a little higher than stock. Again, connecting/reconnecting is super simple, flick the lever and go have fun, it doesn't matter if you're flat or at any angle, walk towards the front flick the lever and go back to drive.

I haven't done anything in the rear because i haven't have a need for that. the rear stock sway bar works fine with Swaylock or Antirock in the front for a rig that serves DD duties and gets driven to the trail or anywhere. The rear setup with a swaylock or antirock is a bit more involved as well and i don't need that drama, but if i had a trail only rig that i trailer everywhere i would consider having the full setup, and in that case i'll do Antirock front/rear cause it's cheaper.

Hope it helps.

This is the review I was kinda looking for. I have 21 JLUR on 40's and just installed long arms. I currently daily drive although retired and wheel it hard. I took off my rear sway bar a while ago for more articulation. I have long travel shocks and always looking for the most flex possible.

now with Long arms I am a little more free and more body roll. On road manners are fine , I can cruise 85 and no issues so not concerned about on road. I have stock sway bar in front.

I am looking to stiffen up for off-road use, have A Lot of body roll at full flex. Was going to do a teraflex Forged St rear sway bar now wondering if I should do antilock or a sway lock. Maybe stiffer long travel shocks. sounding like Antilock may be my solution. just concerned about limiting travel?

 

[CptFloridaMan]

Little tidbit for anyone considering the swayloc, I’ve got mine dead even on either side of the frame, and full lock driver the pitman arm and tie rod end link rub on the latch mechanism and sway bar. Tore the boot on my drag link so that’s gotta get changed eventually.

Im scheming a couple of options, either just go get an antirock or see if there’s enough clearance to angle the sway bar up to clear at ride height but I just have to mess with checking clearances under compression after that.

Most of the time my sway bar is unlocked and then locked when i’m doing 70 but there are times where I just leave it unlocked and it feels fine on the highway.

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