I spoke to Teraflex, they acknowledge there is some play on the bottom to allow for disconnect and can make noise.Then for me these would have gone back and a different brand purchased.
Interesting because the MC are very similar in design and make ZERO noise, have ZERO play and disco very easily.I spoke to Teraflex, they acknowledge there is some play on the bottom to allow for disconnect and can make noise.
I’ve been researching kits for a few days for our Moab trip in June and it really sounds like the best option is to just manually disconnect and zip tie.It's not that big a deal. I use an impact wrench and then zip tie the bars. It literally takes 3 minutes. Much quicker than airing down. You can see from this thread that people have real concerns about the quick disconnects being the right length, working with the other mods they have done, or having to cut things to get them in. Manual disconnect is a reasonable alternative if you have those concerns.
I used to do this. but the JKS quick discos make it so much easier and are a huge improvement over the OEM links. When I installed my JKS I had to cut a bolt of one of my links because it was completely busted, probably from disconnecting it so many times manually.I’ve been researching kits for a few days for our Moab trip in June and it really sounds like the best option is to just manually disconnect and zip tie.
My Jeep is on a Teraflex spacer level kit.
ok RKInteresting thread, but nobody's mentioned RK here.
Funny. But I actually need to know if someone has them or not. There's only one YouTube videook RK
Articulation isn't just about comfort or rubbing your fenders. It's about... well... articulating... allowing the front axle to move up and down freely regardless of what the other side of the axle sees at the tire. This allows the Jeep to remain more level and therefore more stable. In extreme situations this means keeping all 4 tires on the ground vs. lifting a tire in the front or rear.I've been following along with a number of these sway bar disconnect discussions (this one seems to be the most active) and I have a question of not which but should. I have a stock 2018 JLUS, no lift, 33" KO2s and looking at the amount of space between the wheel and fender I just don't know if I would ever get that much articulation before (bottoming out?, topping out?, bumping?) the fenders. I have also read that disconnecting when off road provides a more comfortable ride, and if so I know my wife and kids in the back seat would enjoy that.
So my question is not how, but should.
I don’t see why no one makes just a pin replacement for the lower bolt. Pull the pin and move your stock ones out of the way.Any news on disconnects? All I've seen is massive links that require you to have a wrangler touching the clouds or some that require you to chop off your jeep. Teraflex claims they tested theirs with all JL models, including sport, but those links are almost as long as (thats whay she said).
For us mortals who off-road on trails but do not rock crawl, are we still stuck with a wrench set as our only option?
Laying on the dirt or pavement with a wrench sucks, and sometimes the bolt is hard to get back in. And I feel like throwing up anytime one of my tires is hanging on the air unnecessarily.
Well I guess people are selling them on eBay. I would like to see some installed pictures but for $20 it may be worth a try when my JL arrives.I don’t see why no one makes just a pin replacement for the lower bolt. Pull the pin and move your stock ones out of the way.
Looks like you've got the passenger side one mounted on the wrong side. That sway bar is really cocked outward.Writing from experience, I installed the Teraflex Quick Disconnects. However, these work well for me. I have a 2019 2 door Sport, with a 2.5" lift on 35s. Exactly what they were designed for.
They are simple to disconnect and pin the sway bar links up and out of the way. Can perform the disconnect (both sides) in about a minute. Really easy.
Reconnecting is a little more difficult. The passenger side is easy-peasy since the sway bar is free (still disconnected). Unfortunately, the driver's side is problematic. If there is a helper, then still pretty easy. They just lean on the open driver side door. Otherwise I need to crowbar the sway-bar in order to get the link pin reconnected. Still, this isn't to difficult. It just requires crawling on the ground in order to pry everything in place.
I pry on the driver's side because it has more room between the sway-bar and the frame on which to apply the crowbar. Once you do it a few times it becomes pretty straightforward.
I admit though, the Teraflex links are longer than the stock links. The connected sway-bar rides a little higher than stock. I don't think this matters much. As long as the two sides of the suspension are connected, this will help prevent on-road roll. Regardless, there is still zero wrenching required. So this solution works for me.
Jay
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