Steering Stops are not touching

[RickyPal]

I recently installed CavFab steering and MetalCloak baller joints, and when I was selling up my stabilizer I realized my steering stops aren’t touching the knuckle when my steering locks up - I am still getting 40 degree each way, like most stock rubicons I am reading online. There is a quarter inch or so gap between the bolt and the knuckle! I never checked my stops until now so I am really wondering if they ever touched the knuckles from the showroom floor.

My tires aren’t hitting anything when it stops. I removed my stabilizer so that isn’t a variable

My questions:

Can any other XR / rubicon owners verify that their steering stops actually hit their knuckle from the factory?? I am running 1/8 toe in, so I’m wondering if the stops ever touched - even when my XR was stock. How the heck does this even happen?

Does the box itself limit the steering angle? I don’t see anything obviously binding the steering.

Since my gap is a 1/4 inch if not more, does anyone know the thread size so I can make my own bolt to appropriately set my steps?

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[CloakedWillys]

I would suspect that the stock had not made contact before. It would be easy to see the marks if it had. You can adjust the bolt out until they make contact. I normally throw washers under it to make up the dead space. The steering and ball joints should not be limiting anything.

 

[RhinoJLU]

My JK never hit my steering stops either. I don’t have a Rubi front axle but I have an ultimate 44. Km doing balljoints next week I can report then

 

[RickyPal]

Thanks for the input guys. I’ll try to see if I can shim it enough with washers and be done with it. I don’t want to be stressing the box more than I need to.

I am surprised they would ship the vehicle like that, but wish I could verify that it indeed was like that stock

 

[RickyPal]

Well, this is a bit more interesting than I thought. @CloakedWillys I recently called about that ticking noise after installing my Baller Joints and new steering, and I also noticed the steering stop thing I mentioned here.

I looseened the upper tensioner, and nothing happened, but I decided to re-do the driver side install (minus pressing) just to cross my t's and dot my eyes. 1 hour later, the BJs were re seated, everything was freshly torqued to spec, etc.

Quick test drive, and the noise came back when backing into my side yard. Shit. Everything feels good while driving too. I can repeat the noise while turning at the end of the stroke full lock to full lock with both wheels on the ground. That is, while trying to turn full lock - remember how my stops did not touch?

I then wanted to eliminate any more chance of the noise being from the ball joints so I forced load onto one side of the front axle at a time, expecting the noise to still be heard on one side at least. I jacked one front tire up at a time and turned full lock to full lock. The noise was gone, completely. AND, more interestingly, my steering stops touch when one wheel was lifted off of the ground. But the noise can occasionally be heard when rolling forward and backward slowly without even turning, another annoying variable.

What could be going on? I get a light pop when fully attempting to turn with wheels on the ground, and it wont fully turn. Something is binding up, but is relieved when weight is off of the wheels. I checked my tie rod bolts and front track bar, including the jam nuts. Nothing else is obviously loose, but tomorrow I plan to check my drag link, front control arms, and sway bar links. But I am concerned it may be something in the steering train, based on the fact the noise goes away when it is half unloaded.

 

[CloakedWillys]

Well, this is a bit more interesting than I thought. @CloakedWillys I recently called about that ticking noise after installing my Baller Joints and new steering, and I also noticed the steering stop thing I mentioned here.

I looseened the upper tensioner, and nothing happened, but I decided to re-do the driver side install (minus pressing) just to cross my t's and dot my eyes. 1 hour later, the BJs were re seated, everything was freshly torqued to spec, etc.

Quick test drive, and the noise came back when backing into my side yard. Shit. Everything feels good while driving too. I can repeat the noise while turning at the end of the stroke full lock to full lock with both wheels on the ground. That is, while trying to turn full lock - remember how my stops did not touch?

I then wanted to eliminate any more chance of the noise being from the ball joints so I forced load onto one side of the front axle at a time, expecting the noise to still be heard on one side at least. I jacked one front tire up at a time and turned full lock to full lock. The noise was gone, completely. AND, more interestingly, my steering stops touch when one wheel was lifted off of the ground. But the noise can occasionally be heard when rolling forward and backward slowly without even turning, another annoying variable.

What could be going on? I get a light pop when fully attempting to turn with wheels on the ground, and it wont fully turn. Something is binding up, but is relieved when weight is off of the wheels. I checked my tie rod bolts and front track bar, including the jam nuts. Nothing else is obviously loose, but tomorrow I plan to check my drag link, front control arms, and sway bar links. But I am concerned it may be something in the steering train, based on the fact the noise goes away when it is half unloaded.

I have a couple suspicions of what you may have going on. It still would not explain why you would have limited steering unless you have the axle drooped. If you do it would explain it.

 

[RickyPal]

I have a couple suspicions of what you may have going on. It still would not explain why you would have limited steering unless you have the axle drooped. If you do it would explain it.

Negative, the limited steering happens with everything in static conditions on the ground.

I was suspicious that the electric pump may be bad so I unplugged the fuse to see if the light clicking noise still persisted - it did, so it is somewhere else in the system I think?

Also, important note - the jeep drives perfectly fine. Tracks straight as an arrow, 0 bump steer, death wobble, etc even at highway speeds.

Before going out today for some very light fire road adventuring to see some snow, I torqued everything else down to spec on the front end. As I torqued the castle nut on the pitman arm of the drag link, the noise was heard every time I wrenched on it. I think I am narrowing it down. Still does not explain the lack of lock to lock turning when under load.

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