Steering clunk when brakes depressed

[Jazzicon]

I have someone coming over to cycle the steering while I inspect. Hopefully I will find the source

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[Remorseless]

So far everything is in spec torque wise. I haven’t tried the ball joints because I don’t have extra cotter pins yet.

I did hear the clunk turning the wheel without the brakes depressed….it just wasn’t as loud and not as repeatable

Clearly this is a sign from on high to throw aftermarket parts at the Jeep till it stops making noises.

For serious though, glad it happens without brakes applied, means it's likely a joint and those can all be investigated much more easily. Hard part is, if it's just starting to go, might be hard to isolate which one. FWIW, and it could totally be my general hatred of the OEM ball joints talking and biasing me, those still have my money given the amount of flex you have. Flex puts funny loads into knuckles and tears up those OEM joints. Since you've got an XR and therefore the steel knuckles (pretty sure XRs have the steel knuckles anyway), I do second @Roky checking for vertical play as well. A pry bar between the knuckle and the axle C would give you a good vertical check. Tie rod joints you generally feel going while driving, little more wiggle and wobble while on a straight road felt through the steering wheel. Drag link and trackbar would be a close second - track bar's doing hard work holding the axle in place when turning while stopped and drag link is transmitting all the force from the power steering system to the rest of the linkage.

The sound did sound louder on your driver's side video to me, but I can't tell if it's due to camera proximity differences to the tires/steering or that's where the questionable joint is.

 

[Jazzicon]

Clearly this is a sign from on high to throw aftermarket parts at the Jeep till it stops making noises.

For serious though, glad it happens without brakes applied, means it's likely a joint and those can all be investigated much more easily. Hard part is, if it's just starting to go, might be hard to isolate which one. FWIW, and it could totally be my general hatred of the OEM ball joints talking and biasing me, those still have my money given the amount of flex you have. Flex puts funny loads into knuckles and tears up those OEM joints. Since you've got an XR and therefore the steel knuckles (pretty sure XRs have the steel knuckles anyway), I do second @Roky checking for vertical play as well. A pry bar between the knuckle and the axle C would give you a good vertical check. Tie rod joints you generally feel going while driving, little more wiggle and wobble while on a straight road felt through the steering wheel. Drag link and trackbar would be a close second - track bar's doing hard work holding the axle in place when turning while stopped and drag link is transmitting all the force from the power steering system to the rest of the linkage.

The sound did sound louder on your driver's side video to me, but I can't tell if it's due to camera proximity differences to the tires/steering or that's where the questionable joint is.

Funny thing is, I was just recently looking at Dynatrac Ball Joints because I was looking to go to 37’s

 

[Jazzicon]

My friend should be here in a little over an hour. Hopefully I will be able to find the source then.

 

[Remorseless]

Funny thing is, I was just recently looking at Dynatrac Ball Joints because I was looking to go to 37’s

They're dang good joints, the Dynatracs. I went through a set of OEM joints every 3-6 months like clockwork when I first got my JK, even though it was only on 35s at the time (it's an extremely similar joint design to the JL, plastic bearing surface and all). Frequent Uwharrie trips and just enough flex (usually Rocky Mountain Loop or Dutch John before it got filled in) and they'd start popping and flopping. I went through like 3 or 4 sets of OEM and OEM-style (Moog) joints before I gave up and went Dynatrac.

Personally, I wouldn't wait until you're on the bigger tires to do them were I you, given your setup and frequent wheeling, even if it's something else causing this noise. 35s are more than enough to push the stock ones past their limits, at least in my experience.

Regardless, hopefully the helper helps you zero in on the noise.

 

[Partswiz]

Suggestion,
Check the spindle bolts to caliper bracket for torque, as this is often overlooked and will clunk on brake apply.

 

[GATORB8]

Brakes were throwing me off.

I’m thinking possibly factory loose lower ball joints. Mine were clicking after a month or so.

Pull cotter, IIRC 59 ft lbs+ as required to next castle. New cotter.

If you have crowsfeet you can do it with wheels on.

EDIT confirmed 59 ft lbs for the induction hardened BJs plus next castle even if it’s lined up at 59.

 

[Jazzicon]

Funny thing is, I heard it when leaving to go wheeling and kind of let it go. I definitely don’t wheel like a crazy person…..and for now I don’t hear or feel it while I’m wheeling.

 

[Jazzicon]

Does this look normal?

 

[Roky]

Does this look normal?

?

 

[Jazzicon]

Well…might be a loose trackbar….paint marks apparently mean nothing ?

 

[Speed331]

Check your endlinks as well. I had an ongoing 'click' when turning the wheel and finally traced it to under torqued nuts where my JKS disco's connected to the sway bar.... they felt tight but upon inspection, they had been moving up and down inside the bracket enough to wear down the threads. Replaced the bolts, tightened to spec and no more clicking.

 

[Remorseless]

Well…might be a loose trackbar….paint marks apparently mean nothing ?

Which trackbar and joint type is it? And what torque spec was it supposed to be?

 

[Jazzicon]

RK trackbar. It reuses the factory bolts. 54 ft lbs plus 115 degrees. I haven’t removed it yet from the frame mount where it is moving laterally to inspect yet. Either the joint went bad somehow after only 5000 miles or the hole may be wallowed out. Either way, easy fix.

The drag link joint at the pitman arm is definitely bad. I took the opportunity as the perfect excuse to order a new drag link and tie rod.

Here are the two problem children….

Drag Link:

Track Bar:

 

[Remorseless]

RK trackbar. It reuses the factory bolts. 54 ft lbs plus 115 degrees. I haven’t removed it yet from the frame mount where it is moving laterally to inspect yet. Either the joint went bad somehow after only 5000 miles or the hole may be wallowed out. Either way, easy fix.

The drag link joint at the pitman arm is definitely bad. I took the opportunity as the perfect excuse to order a new drag link and tie rod.

Here are the two problem children….

Drag Link:

Track Bar:

Oof, nice. RK's stuff is high quality, but that also does look like a rubber bushing that's died on the frame side stuff. Definitely unlucky, but at least now you know. Might be worth contacting RK with the video of the movement to see if they'll send you a new bushing. Should be able to press it out/in. Cheaper than a new trackbar even if you gotta pick up some tools. I've used Teraflex's bushing kit to do control arms bushings on my JK, might work for the trackbar ( Amazon.com: TeraFlex IR Bushing Replacement Tool Kit : Automotive ). Otherwise have seen people use ball joint presses in a pinch.

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