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Clunk when shifting after lift kit install (help)

Bigfx1

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So installed my rancho 2 inch lift kit and had it aligned no wobble in the steering wheel at all but I’m noticing when I shift I get a clunk as soon as the Jeep engages gear. It’s pretty loud any advice? I replaced the track bar but not the lower controls arms.
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Terminex

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First solution is to check every bolt, as a bolt that is not torqued properly is the number 1 cause for a sound like that after a lift. (Upper shock mounts bolts are a pretty common one i have seen people miss doing final torque.)

but also provide more info around what waas done & how it was done:
What transmission & transfer case?

is the clunk from the front or the rear?

when you installed the lift, did you disconnect & reconnect driveshaft?
 

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Even if you don't replace control arms, which I believe should be done, they still need to be loosened for the lift and retightened at the new higher ride height. Otherwise, all 16 of those bushings will be bound up at ride height, and over stretched when drooped, which will prematurely damage them.
 
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Bigfx1

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Even if you don't replace control arms, which I believe should be done, they still need to be loosened for the lift and retightened at the new higher ride height. Otherwise, all 16 of those bushings will be bound up at ride height, and over stretched when drooped, which will prematurely damage them.
I did loosen all the control arms and had Firestone torque them down but now I’m thinking it didn’t happen as I was checking my front track bar gave it a wiggle and well yeah it had some play torqued it down and the adjustable collar probably need to double check the control arms.
 
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Bigfx1

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First solution is to check every bolt, as a bolt that is not torqued properly is the number 1 cause for a sound like that after a lift. (Upper shock mounts bolts are a pretty common one i have seen people miss doing final torque.)

but also provide more info around what waas done & how it was done:
What transmission & transfer case?

is the clunk from the front or the rear?

when you installed the lift, did you disconnect & reconnect driveshaft?
6 speed manual

feels like it bucks a little when I shift

did not disconnect the driveshafts

clunk happens in the front
 

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Bigfx1

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I will check the bolts again and tips for holding the box wrench and torquing at the same time lol
 

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I did loosen all the control arms and had Firestone torque them down but now I’m thinking it didn’t happen as I was checking my front track bar gave it a wiggle and well yeah it had some play torqued it down and the adjustable collar probably need to double check the control arms.
Just go over everything that was touched, as far as arms and linkages. Even something that tight, but not tight enough, could move under driving forces. I've had the same thing happen on both the front and rear, after swapping parts. Sometimes a follow up retorque is needed after a couple hundred miles are put on properly torqued parts. I recently swapped out my rear Synergy arms for Metalcloaks. A week later, I started feeling some movement. Fixed it by climbing under with the torque wrench and all is dandy again.
 
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Bigfx1

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Just go over everything that was touched, as far as arms and linkages. Even something that tight, but not tight enough, could move under driving forces. I've had the same thing happen on both the front and rear, after swapping parts. Sometimes a follow up retorque is needed after a couple hundred miles are put on properly torqued parts. I recently swapped out my rear Synergy arms for Metalcloaks. A week later, I started feeling some movement. Fixed it by climbing under with the torque wrench and all is dandy again.
ok so Firestone didn’t tighten the control arm bolts, since I was down there decided to go ahead and install the jks geometry bracket ..thank God for the install video showing the trick with the jack on the diff and pinion, that made the install maybe an hour long job then I went to town with the torque wrench and the control arms (wife had to help by holding wrench on one side lol)..post drive no clunk when shifting and with the brackets the whole ride feels way more secure or “solid” I would say no real brake dive, overall after 12 hours it’s done, 100% doable but budget for the time
 

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great to hear. As I mentioned it is the most common reason. (you just bumped it up to 98%:))

Also be aware, it is the most common reason why everything will feel great (be silent) for a little while, and then you can start to change the feel of the ride / handling (or start to hear sounds).
-all because bolts are tightened, but not torqued to spec.
 
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Bigfx1

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great to hear. As I mentioned it is the most common reason. (you just bumped it up to 98%:))

Also be aware, it is the most common reason why everything will feel great (be silent) for a little while, and then you can start to change the feel of the ride / handling (or start to hear sounds).
-all because bolts are tightened, but not torqued to spec.
yeah I will check them in 500 miles and make sure they stay there, but man its feels good for it to be done (for now)
 

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Terminex

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1 other suggestion, you will get it to settle a lot faster if you use a much softer setting on the shocks for a week or 2. I also normally have my rear set 1 or 2 lower than the front, unless I have the rear loaded with a bunch of weight.

definitely let us know how you like it after driving it for a while.
 

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ok so Firestone didn’t tighten the control arm bolts, since I was down there decided to go ahead and install the jks geometry bracket ..thank God for the install video showing the trick with the jack on the diff and pinion, that made the install maybe an hour long job then I went to town with the torque wrench and the control arms (wife had to help by holding wrench on one side lol)..post drive no clunk when shifting and with the brackets the whole ride feels way more secure or “solid” I would say no real brake dive, overall after 12 hours it’s done, 100% doable but budget for the time
Awesome news! Glad to hear it worked out and you can now enjoy the ride!
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