A steering “stabiliser “ is just a dampener. Will likley not help you at all. I’d recommend having your caster checked (just the test shouldn’t be more than $30). The stock spec is bullshit. You want somewhere between 6-7 degrees.I just upgraded my tires to 35’s using my stock wheels and the drive has gotten a bit squirrelly. Wondering for any recommendations on possible fixes? Steering stabilizer?
Do you have a link for #2?A steering “stabiliser “ is just a dampener. Will likley not help you at all. I’d recommend having your caster checked (just the test shouldn’t be more than $30). The stock spec is bullshit. You want somewhere between 6-7 degrees.
3 options:
1. Get the control arms from the factory lift kit. They’re about 1/4” longer than stock. This will get you like 5.5 and cost around $50.
2. Get the metal cloak adjustable lowers. The rubber bushings are great and you can get to 6.5 pretty easily. Cost is $350ish on sale and then install. I did it myself, but it would have been a pain in the ass if my JLUR wasn’t in a lift.
3. Get a different manufactures arms. Don’t bother. OEM or metal cloak.
I went route #2. Between the steel steering box and the adjustable arms, the JL drive a whole ton better.
I would go lower psi. Do the chalk test. I switched to 35s and they are load D and went down to 30 psi. The Jeep drove normally like before but the tire installer put 37 psi and going over bumps was to harsh. I don’t really understand why some people get all these bad driving characteristics when going 35s or lifting the Jeep. I lifted mine and went to 35s and it just drives like factory.I dropped psi to 33-34 last week. Doesn’t seem to be the problem though.
I used those arms with a 392 takeoff suspension and with 35s drives like stock. When I measured the angle at the pumpkin I go 0° which is 6° caster.These are what I bought for my JL until I put my lift on. They seem to make a noticeable difference. I ended up purchasing them from a local dealership that had them in stock for about the same price. https://www.mopargenuineparts.com/s...9SrAN2TzehGYeBiOCX4v9NmFuNiMFPoUaAoogEALw_wcB
I'd try pressure first. I changed my fill gauge and accidentally filled my 35's to 36 PSI last weekend, Jeep was all over the road, dropped them back down to 31 and drives perfectly. Unless you want to spend money, I can certainly help with that...I would go lower psi. Do the chalk test. I switched to 35s and they are load D and went down to 30 psi. The Jeep drove normally like before but the tire installer put 37 psi and going over bumps was to harsh. I don’t really understand why some people get all these bad driving characteristics when going 35s or lifting the Jeep. I lifted mine and went to 35s and it just drives like factory.
Are the 392 arms any longer than the ones from the factory lift kit? If so, we should get part numbers on those as the factory lift kits would be perfect on a JLxR if they were 1/8” longer. Personal preference, of course… I like lazy Cadillac steering.I used those arms with a 392 takeoff suspension and with 35s drives like stock. When I measured the angle at the pumpkin I go 0° which is 6° caster.
https://metalcloak.com/control-arms-jl-wrangler-lower-front.htmlDo you have a link for #2?
No, only springs, shocks and links are different. The rest is the same. That’s why I ordered the longer MOPAR LCAs.Are the 392 arms any longer than the ones from the factory lift kit? If so, we should get part numbers on those as the factory lift kits would be perfect on a JLxR if they were 1/8” longer. Personal preference, of course… I like lazy Cadillac steering.
Or buy these. Will make you a deal.Do you have a link for #2?