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Speaker replacement upgrade

Bskylerj

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I have installed my C2 JL audio speakers and they are a world of difference over the stocks. I have not put my amp in yet as I’m waiting to build my sub box. I’m doing the 1000/5 VXi JL Audio.
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JLsport2019

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I have installed my C2 JL audio speakers and they are a world of difference over the stocks. I have not put my amp in yet as I’m waiting to build my sub box. I’m doing the 1000/5 VXi JL Audio.

Awaiting your results with the VXi (DSP) amplifier
 

geckorubicon

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Have the Rubi with the 7" screen, non-Alpine upgrade. Also looking to upgrade. Have blown 2 speakers in past few months, never turn the volume up to full and bass is turned to zero line.

Am I right or close in thinking that this will cost at least $2k to get the piss poor system to at least something reasonable?
 

Jerseyed1975

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Have the Rubi with the 7" screen, non-Alpine upgrade. Also looking to upgrade. Have blown 2 speakers in past few months, never turn the volume up to full and bass is turned to zero line.

Am I right or close in thinking that this will cost at least $2k to get the piss poor system to at least something reasonable?
The question for you is this, what level are you looking for? I think you need to be closer to the $3000 area. I don't think you would be looking for too much customization with your budget, but go with the 6.5" for the fronts (reach out to Jerry with showtime audio in chicago very reasonable) which will end up costing you in the $700-$1000 area depending on the speakers you go with and the cost to make the modified pods. For the sound bar I would not increase the size, get a 3.5/4 mid & tweeter (will be plenty since it's right over your head).

For the amp look into a 600/6 or 800/6. I would bridge 2 channels into the 6.5s in the pod and a single channel into the other speakers.

I'm guessing all those items will run you in the $2000 area, leaving you around $1000 for the sub & sub amp.

Don't pay much attention to anyone who says you have to get a amp with a dsp, as this will add a few hundred to your price and might really screw your budget up. Also, nothing wrong with building the system in stages as you go, just plan it out and get the installer to prep for everything when they do the initial work, this way when you go to add pieces it is pretty much a plug and play.
 

geckorubicon

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The question for you is this, what level are you looking for? I think you need to be closer to the $3000 area. I don't think you would be looking for too much customization with your budget, but go with the 6.5" for the fronts (reach out to Jerry with showtime audio in chicago very reasonable) which will end up costing you in the $700-$1000 area depending on the speakers you go with and the cost to make the modified pods. For the sound bar I would not increase the size, get a 3.5/4 mid & tweeter (will be plenty since it's right over your head).

For the amp look into a 600/6 or 800/6. I would bridge 2 channels into the 6.5s in the pod and a single channel into the other speakers.

I'm guessing all those items will run you in the $2000 area, leaving you around $1000 for the sub & sub amp.

Don't pay much attention to anyone who says you have to get a amp with a dsp, as this will add a few hundred to your price and might really screw your budget up. Also, nothing wrong with building the system in stages as you go, just plan it out and get the installer to prep for everything when they do the initial work, this way when you go to add pieces it is pretty much a plug and play.
That helps. People I have talked to say the dsp is a must as timing is all off without it. Ill reach out to showtime.
 

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carstereochick

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@carstereochick...........Like everyone else on this thread, thx so much for the great info. Did U install a stealth box on both sides and remove the OEM on the premium system? I was considering installing one of the drivers side and keeping the OEM amp but is that really a good idea? Thx!
So glad to be of help and sorry for the delayed reply - I have to figure out notification settings. We did remove it in ours and are doing the same thing to another one we have in the shop right now (working on a video for that one too). There is a panel you have to get from Jeep parts (part # 6BM30TX7AD) to replace the factory subwoofer panel and you have to cut part of the original panel that butts up against the roll bar. When it's all done it looks great and sounds awesome. Also, there is a smidgen of carpet missing on the passenger side when you remove the factory sub. We covered it with some automotive grade carpet, I think Jeep only sells the whole piece of carpet for like $350.

If you don't want to fuss with the new panel, modification and missing carpet, I would say leave the factory sub and add the steath box on the driver side. And I was mistaken on my understanding in an earlier post about the AP4-CH41. I thought it was basically you are using that OR the factory amp, my husband John explained to me it's just interrupting the digital signal, you're basically tapping into it, not disconnecting it - so technically if you wanted to leave the factory amp and sub in you could and still use the AP4-CH41 for your aftermarket amp, speakers and subs. That might be hard to get the balance right though because at that point you don't have any gain control over your factory sub. In another JL we did we kept the factory sub, but used a separate amp to power it and John set it up so one of the knobs on the DRC-205 could control it.
 

JungleJeep

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So I have a question, before I order my JLU, is there a best stereo option to get in order to make upgrading to a better aftermarket components easier? I would like to get the large screen Alpine head unit and use that to control whatever I decide to upgrade. Should I stay away from ordering the factory sub?
 

debandi

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Thanks for this information. I have few questions and looking for some advice. I have a 2019 2 door rubicon with the factory Alpine upgrade. The goal is to keep the factory sub and replace the other factory speakers.
1. Speakers Morel Virtus 402 How many and which locations? What about the dash speakers?
2. JL Audio VX 1000 /5i Is this the correct Amp for my idea?
3. PAC Amp PRO AP4-CH41 I'm assuming this is a must but I'm not sure?
4. Can I use the factory amp in conjunction with this set up? Is it even needed?

Any advice is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for the help.
 

nibeckd

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...I find the best performing speakers off stock head unit are the ones that are extremely efficient and don't require a lot of power to perform like JBL speakers with a lower impedance....
Could you recommend a specific JBL? Club 3020? GX 302?

Thanks in advance.
 

ostaz

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carstereochick

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Hey everyone!!! I'm so excited about this, I didn't know if should start a new thread or post here. Check it out - PAC Audio has UPGRADED the AP4-CH41 to Version 2 which now works for ALL WRANGLER JL STEREOS - doesn't matter if you have the amplified or non amplified, 5" screen, 7" screen or 8.4" screen - with or without Alpine premium sound. NO RESISTORS REQUIRED.

This will make upgrading the stereos in these vehicles SO much easier!!! I'm so excited :)
 

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RubenZ

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Hey everyone!!! I'm so excited about this, I didn't know if should start a new thread or post here. Check it out - PAC Audio has UPGRADED the AP4-CH41 to Version 2 which now works for ALL WRANGLER JL STEREOS - doesn't matter if you have the amplified or non amplified, 5" screen, 7" screen or 8.4" screen - with or without Alpine premium sound. NO RESISTORS REQUIRED.

This will make upgrading the stereos in these vehicles SO much easier!!! I'm so excited :)
This seems to be what I need. So basically I plug that into the factory Radio, then I add whatever AMP I want? Will this allow me to bypass the factory speakers? I want to do away with the Kick Panel speakers, if I could unplug them that would be great. I want to have COMPONENTS. Maybe Just run 1 pair of components in Soundbar with some modification or run the 6.5" Mid Component speaker in sound bar and tweeter up front, but that may ruin the sound stage and then just Bridge channels 3 and 4 for the SUB in back.
 

carstereochick

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This seems to be what I need. So basically I plug that into the factory Radio, then I add whatever AMP I want? Will this allow me to bypass the factory speakers? I want to do away with the Kick Panel speakers, if I could unplug them that would be great. I want to have COMPONENTS. Maybe Just run 1 pair of components in Soundbar with some modification or run the 6.5" Mid Component speaker in sound bar and tweeter up front, but that may ruin the sound stage and then just Bridge channels 3 and 4 for the SUB in back.
Yes, you plug this in line - it daisy chains into the factory head unit harness and provides 5 volt front, rear and subwoofer pre-amp output. If you want to keep it digital and go toslink out there is an adapter for that too APA-TOS1. If you have the non amplified, but with active noise cancellation there is another part you will need (if you want to keep active noise cancellation - in other vehicles when we encounter this we usually just have to disconnect the active noise cancellation microphone/s) that part won't be out for another month. This part will be shipping hopefully end of this week, it's specifically Version 2 - AP4-CH41R2. The original AP4-CH41 only works in models with Alpine premium sound.

As far as the replacement speakers go, you do not want to eliminate the front 4" kick panel speakers, then all of your sound would be coming from behind you in the sound bar plus when you're in the open air, you will find most of what you hear is coming at you from in front of you. You are best off installing higher quality/high power handling speakers - high powered 5 channel amp (or two high powered amps, one for interiors, one for subs). You can get away with amplfying the stock sub, but it is still boomy, not great sound quality. We did that for one customer who also had 2 JL Audio 10TW3's in a custom down firing box we built (just so he could still have some bass if he ever needed to remove the box) and he hated the way the stock sub sounded so we ended up disconnecting it. Maybe as a temporary set up until you do an aftermarket sub that's not a bad idea.
 

RubenZ

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As far as the replacement speakers go, you do not want to eliminate the front 4" kick panel speakers, then all of your sound would be coming from behind you in the sound bar plus when you're in the open air, you will find most of what you hear is coming at you from in front of you. You are best off installing higher quality/high power handling speakers - high powered 5 channel amp (or two high powered amps, one for interiors, one for subs). You can get away with amplfying the stock sub, but it is still boomy, not great sound quality. We did that for one customer who also had 2 JL Audio 10TW3's in a custom down firing box we built (just so he could still have some bass if he ever needed to remove the box) and he hated the way the stock sub sounded so we ended up disconnecting it. Maybe as a temporary set up until you do an aftermarket sub that's not a bad idea.
If I install higher powered speakers, how do they amplified? The PAC adapter is to connect an amp, but how do I return amped sound back to factory speaker locations.
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