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I did the color matched hardtop. I also have the black soft top. I prefer the look of the matching hardtop.

Try this link. http://garagesmart.refr.cc/daviddebandi

Yes I have one and I love it!. 3 minutes and the top is off and controlled with your phone. I would buy it again.

No, The new speakers are driven with new speaker wire. No factory wire remains in the sound bar.

That is how the Alpine grills come. I didn't do a thing to them.....

The amp is under the driver seat. Much easier as it relates to the large power cable through the upper driver side fire wall on an automatic transmission configuration. Yes that is the new tweeter in the original factory dash speaker covers. Takes two seconds with the correct hole saw drill bit...

The sub is being powered by the original factory amp. The four new Alpine R S65C.2 speakers are being driven via the new R-A60F amp. Some pics of the install at this link https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/factory-alpine-upgrade.51678/

I ordered these today. I'll keep you posted when they ship and the quality. SADDLE BAG JL 2 DOOR (Pair) for Inner Fenders https://www.overland-outfitters.com/store/p25/SADDLE_BAG_JL_2_DOOR_(Pair)_for_Inner_Fenders.html#/

You can use this just don't bother with replacing the pods. These instructions worked great for me. http://metraonline.com/files/products/INSTJP-1014_web.pdf

I ran my amp power wires on the driver side and all new speaker wire on the passenger side

This is an automatic transmission. You have a rubber grommet in the upper driver side firewall. Nothing could be easier to be honest. The micro fuse tap has still not arrived. Amazon is just covered up and doing the best they can. A friend of mine is an electrician. We made a temporary fuse...

Good catch on that. It is F58. I'll correct my typo and get you a picture of the amp power cable

You may not have the same issue I did. It will be interesting to see what happens with your install

I called the peeps at PAC support and they were super helpful. The actual challenge was finding a Micro fuse tap. Had to order it from Amazon. No local auto parts stores had a micro fuse tap. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No speaker wire goes to the harness. I used all new speaker wire. No cutting and no splicing of any wires. One RCA cable set for the front channel and one RCA cable set for the rear channel. They feed from the PAC module to the new amp.

The sound is 300% better than the little 4" factory speakers. The factory sub is untouched and still driven via the original factory amp. The harness connection is the PAC Amp Pro AP4-CH41 (R.2) amplifier interface via two 6' rca cables going to the new amp. 100W RMS x 4 pushing the 100W RMS...

The goal was clean power and clear sound. Alpine R-A60F Alpine R-S65c.2 for the sound bar Alpine R-S65c.2 for the lower dash speakers SSV Works JJT-SA065 for the sound bar Mettra JP-1014 speaker pods for the lower dash All new speaker wire PAC Amp Pro AP4-CH41 (R.2) amplifier interface I ordered...

I'm using it for my 8.4" factory Alpine upgraded system. Works perfect running a Alpine R-A60F amp driving 2 sets of Alpine R-S65C.2 speakers with the SSV works JJT and Metra JP-1014 speaker pods. A couple of observations. (Observation # 1) I did not use the blue wire to trigger the power to...

I installed them in a little Saturn Sky with the correct 2 channel Alpine amp a couple of years ago. The sound was amazing when you match them with the correct power. My goal is to double that Saturn Sky installation (2X the power and 2X the speakers) in the Jeep.

Thanks for starting this thread! I will be doing this sound bar upgrade next week. Thanks for all the great information!!!!!!