skid plates and frame rigidity?

[wanderer]

so I’ve been thinking about going to a full under carriage skid plate system contenders are Metal Cloak artec asfir and open to suggestions?
But I was watching a video posted by I think hard rock.
And in their post, they claim they have additional Cross members that add significant torsional rigidity to the frame.
I have no idea if this is true or not, but the Logic seems to be there. I mean, if you think of a frame is too parallel rails and then you add several Cross members to it. I would think it would make it stiffer.
So my question is, does anybody know if this is true?
And my other question is, should I go aluminum? Should I go steel?
I like the idea of aluminum because they’re light and I think the jeeps should remain fairly light if possible
But I also don’t want to hamper changing my oil changing differential fluid stuff like that .
so what do you guys think do skid plates at personal rigidity?
And if so, is it better to go steel despite the weight ?
I have heard that Metal cloaks system weighs something like 235 pounds!!!!
Where are some of the aluminums I’ve seen advertised at barely 30 pounds more than the stock skid plates!
And whatever system I want I’m considering going to muffler delete and a cat back exhaust, but I want something that’s gonna be quiet!
Any suggestions for that?

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[jadmt]

I have the ASFIR skids and for the money are hard to beat. no issues changing oil as I have a fumoto valve....I can say they make a unique sound when sliding across lava rock....I like that they are light weight and won't rust and for what I need they are great. If I were racing king of hammers or really pounding my rig I would probably look at something else but for my level of playing in the rough stuff they are well worth the money.

 

[Terrymo]

I have Metalcloak and have beat on them pretty good with no complaints.

For non aluminum skids. Watch this multi part comparison of Metalcloak vs Rusty’s by AllPro Off Road if you haven’t already. Here’s a link to part 1

 

[BDinTX]

…they claim they have additional Cross members that add significant torsional rigidity to the frame.

I think most of the systems that replace factory skids have to add a crossmember so there is something to support the metal and some also replace the one under the transfer case.

So I don’t think they’re unique in anything but their claim that their crossmembers add significant rigidity. Besides. I would think bolting a sheet of steel or aluminum across the bottom of the frame rails would do more to prevent twisting.

Keep in mind I grew up eating crayons and pooping Legos so hardly qualify as an expert.

 

[THAW]

Keep in mind I grew up eating crayons and pooping Legos so hardly qualify as an expert.

I've heard Legos are expensive now, but doubt giving them the civet coffee treatment adds value.

 

[BDinTX]

Well today I learned something new
🫘

 

[Apples491]

I don't have skids on my Jeep yet but on my Xterra it felt different skids on vs off. Completely butt in seat feeling, but they did seem to make it feel a tiny bit firmer.

If you're wheeling style is going to have you sliding belly over rocks Tony Hawk style, steel is the better long term investment. It is a bit stronger than aluminum, but more importantly, it tends to bend rather than crack under impact pressure. For most use cases, however, aluminums weight savings and rust resistance win out.

 

[Terrymo]

Well today I learned something new
🫘

Sometimes we have to learn from those early painful childhood lessons…repeatedly…that’s assuming you may have actually learned. These things can take time.

 

[Deen]

so I’ve been thinking about going to a full under carriage skid plate system contenders are Metal Cloak artec asfir and open to suggestions?
But I was watching a video posted by I think hard rock.
And in their post, they claim they have additional Cross members that add significant torsional rigidity to the frame.
I have no idea if this is true or not, but the Logic seems to be there. I mean, if you think of a frame is too parallel rails and then you add several Cross members to it. I would think it would make it stiffer.
So my question is, does anybody know if this is true?
And my other question is, should I go aluminum? Should I go steel?
I like the idea of aluminum because they’re light and I think the jeeps should remain fairly light if possible
But I also don’t want to hamper changing my oil changing differential fluid stuff like that .
so what do you guys think do skid plates at personal rigidity?
And if so, is it better to go steel despite the weight ?
I have heard that Metal cloaks system weighs something like 235 pounds!!!!
Where are some of the aluminums I’ve seen advertised at barely 30 pounds more than the stock skid plates!
And whatever system I want I’m considering going to muffler delete and a cat back exhaust, but I want something that’s gonna be quiet!
Any suggestions for that?

I have the aluminum Hard Rock system with the crossmembers. They do add strength that is noticeable at the first drive after install.
On my '21 JLURD the main plate cracked so RH warrantied it but only with a steel plate and I had to pay shipping. About $200.

 

[MikesMojito]

I would contend the MC cross member added strength.

Seemed very significant compared to the stock.

 

[Turniipp]

I have the Artec full underbelly system and love it. I was a little concerned about the strength and durability of aluminum, but it has been terrific. I've slid, I've dropped on them, I've scraped, they're tough as nails and I don't think I've even dented them.

I have no complaints and there's a strange, perhaps insane, peace of mind knowing they won't/don't rust when you're busy scraping them.

 

[azjl#3]

Yes the skid makes the frame more rigid.

 

[BDinTX]

Yes the skid makes the frame more rigid.

Right. The crossmember(s) I’m not so sure they’d have a noticeable difference without the skids on them.

 

[BDinTX]

I would contend the MC cross member added strength.

Seemed very significant compared to the stock.

I agree that crossmember they replace the factory one with looks a lot beefier (MC FTW). Yours was where I saw it firsthand.

We can do a test next weekend with the RTI ramp if you want. Do the ramp three times with the belly pan on, average the numbers. Then take off the belly pan and do it again. I bet you’d get a few more inches without it on there. Granted, we can’t take the crossmember off too, the transmission wouldn’t like that so much.

actually… @Metalcloak is this something y'all have measured? (Frame twist with factory crossmember vs with yours)

 

[Waldeck]

I haven't put any skid plates on mine yet, but I was wondering if you need to make the frame more ridged! Is it not meant to flex, putting a cross member in the wrong place may cause an issue. I don't know if this is the case but it's a thought.

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