Should I Regear?

[Ian4351]

It’s not the 1st time you have and sadly probably won’t be the last. Any more interrogation or can we let OP have their thread back?

Who knew my original question would produce all this. I'm certainly not taking any sides here and all the information has been appreciated. Definitely helpful as well. Also somewhat entertaining lol.
I am new to the forum and its uses but I've always known about it.

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[word302]

Who knew my original question would produce all this. I'm certainly not taking any sides here and all the information has been appreciated. Definitely helpful as well. Also somewhat entertaining lol.
I am new to the forum and its uses but I've always known about it.

Unfortunately this is his MO. He sweeps into threads touting his unfounded opinions as fact and gets super pissy when he gets called out on it. Yes I did some digging this time because I’m over this dude and I’m sitting at home with a broken ankle with nothing but time on my hands. Sorry your thread had to be the sacrificial lamb.

 

[conFUcius]

This has been an entertaining read. I have a 2020 JLUR, 3.6, 8 speed auto, 37" Cooper STT Pro's on KMC beadlocks, steel bumpers and sliders and all my gear. I saw 7th gear a little and almost never saw 8th gear with the stock 4.10 gears. MPG was 15-ish on the road, 13's when wheeling in 4 hi, and less if 4 low was in effect. I was fine with that setup until we bought a Black Series Dominator camper. It was a complete dog towing that camper (it is heavy) so I wasted no time regearing to 5.13's. Absolutely no regrets on that decision, gained 1 MPG easy, 7th and 8th gear are in full effect too. Towing a heavy trailer is gonna suck regardless, but it handles the weight very well. If was was running a lighter tire wheel setup, then it would be even better. My wife's bone stock 2019 JLU Sahara with the same engine / trans, feels like a go-cart compared to mine.

Similar set-up here but I had the re-gear a few months after the lift and 37s went on (I had non-beadlock wheels and 37” KO2s at the time). Just driving on the highway irritated me since the Jeep would downshift at the slightest grade or if there was a headwind - this is in NC which is not at a very high elevation. Fast forward to now with steel bumpers, winch, roof rack, DL beadlock wheels, and STT Pros; no regrets with 5.13s.

@Ian4351 - Moral of the story is definitely re-gear and don’t listen to anyone who tells you that you don’t need to re-gear. As for the final gear ratio you choose… only you can determine that but you probably don’t want to pay for a re-gear twice.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Who knew my original question would produce all this. I'm certainly not taking any sides here and all the information has been appreciated. Definitely helpful as well. Also somewhat entertaining lol.
I am new to the forum and its uses but I've always known about it.

This is the internet. There are way too many "experts" who can't let people be "wrong".

Sadly, they hijack threads with a lot of useless repetitive posts.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Or refuse to be wrong and continue to spew totally incorrect information which can lead the unknowing astray because they sound so convincing.

 

[Ian4351]

Last question, how much does a regear cost? No way I'm doing it myself. I've heard anywhere between $1500-$3000

 

[grimmjeeper]

Last question, how much does a regear cost? No way I'm doing it myself. I've heard anywhere between $1500-$3000

Depends a lot on the shop. Also depends on what all you're getting done.

At the risk of starting another 20 pages of "expert discussion", you should consider adding some traction aiding devices (limited slip or lockers) as long as you're getting the gears installed. If you do that later you pay for the same labor twice.

Installing gears is several hours of shop labor and parts. The pats, gears and an installation kit, is maybe $400-500 per axle. I don't remember exactly because I haven't priced out JL gears.

A good limited slip is $600+ or so. Selectable lockers get up towards $900+.

And, also trying to avoid another prolonged discussion, you should consider adding a heavy duty differential cover for $100-200 as long as the cover is off.

 

[Ian4351]

Yes definitely don't need a long discussion. Thanks for the info!

 

[grimmjeeper]

If you do decide to buy them yourself, East Coast Gear Supply has always given me a great price on the gears and install kits.

Same here. I do all my own install work and ECGS is my go-to shop.

Also to follow up, most shops won't install gears you walk in with. But if you have parts shipped to them directly they may be more open to it. Regardless, talk to the shop because they may give you a competitive price on parts.

 

[blnewt]

Same here. I do all my own install work and ECGS is my go-to shop.

Also to follow up, most shops won't install gears you walk in with. But if you have parts shipped to them directly they may be more open to it. Regardless, talk to the shop because they may give you a competitive price on parts.

In your opinion is it worth it to regear the smaller M186/200 axles, or just put that money into D44s?
(asking for a friend, lol)

 

[Remorseless]

In your opinion is it worth it to regear the smaller M186/200 axles, or just put that money into D44s?
(asking for a friend, lol)

I know you didn't ask me, but figured I'd join the fray lol. IMO, it depends on how deep you gear. Again IMO, a bump over 3.45 is good, but given the R&P size in the D30/35, I don't like to go as deep as 4.88 or higher. 4.56 is the top of my comfort zone there given the smaller diameter having less metal to work with (YMMV and all that). A regear of those axles would fit the needs of most people wheeling Jeeps equipped with them, and be cheaper than a new axle set.

The question of when you should junk the axles and move on is, IMO, personal. A lot of folks on the forums will tell you what they'll do as if it's gospel for you. For me, were I running the Sport axles, I'd regear them and then plan on swapping them out if I'm going to heavy/sticky 37s and above. But that's me, I tend to run things until they become a problem or I notice excess wear and tear.

 

[Ian4351]

If you do decide to buy them yourself, East Coast Gear Supply has always given me a great price on the gears and install kits.

Nice I will definitely look them up!

 

[grimmjeeper]

In your opinion is it worth it to regear the smaller M186/200 axles, or just put that money into D44s?
(asking for a friend, lol)

The real answer is "it depends". How you use the Jeep determines what axles are good enough.

tl;dr response follows:

The harder you wheel it the more you need to upgrade.

Some street jeepers and people who stick to dirt roads would have no troubles with those axles. Even mild trails are fine with stock tires.

On the other hand I've seen people break a Dana 44 on 33" tires. I've seen people do some serious trails on a fully loaded up JLUR and 37s with stock Rubicon axles with no problems.

I ran a JK on 35s with a front D30 with a locker, truss, and moly shafts for years. No problems at all. But I didn't beat on it either.

I personally wouldn't put any money into a M200 rear. It's not hard to find a replacement for that axle. The M186 with FAD is another question. The JK D30 didn't have FAD but it was weaker in other areas. So depending on what you do with it, I would maybe run it. But maybe not. Ideally, a set of Rubicon axles are a solid upgrade if you can find them for a reasonable price.

I ran an XJ with a D30/D44 combo on 32s and it ran great on moderate trails up to Hell's Revenge (bypassing the big obstacles). But I'm building an MJ and going with D60/D80 combo to run 40s or bigger on serious trails because that's going to be abused.

 

[word302]

In your opinion is it worth it to regear the smaller M186/200 axles, or just put that money into D44s?
(asking for a friend, lol)

Yeah it really depends on tire size and how you use it. You could put 5.38s in those things and run 40” tires (don’t do this?) and run on the street and probably be fine. Like @grimmjeeper said I’ve seen carnage in Dana 44s with relatively small tires because the guy literally bounced over everything with lots of skinny pedal. It’s really hard to give advice on this subject unless I’ve wheeled with you. I heated my 44s but that’s as much as I’ll spend on them because I’ll eventually be on 40”+ tires and I’m not ecstatic about the FAD. Currently I’m running 37s with 5.13 gears and I’m still careful because they’re Trail Grapplers and when they bite they bite.

 

[blnewt]

Yeah it really depends on tire size and how you use it. You could put 5.38s in those things and run 40” tires (don’t do this?) and run on the street and probably be fine. Like @grimmjeeper said I’ve seen carnage in Dana 44s with relatively small tires because the guy literally bounced over everything with lots of skinny pedal. It’s really hard to give advice on this subject unless I’ve wheeled with you. I heated my 44s but that’s as much as I’ll spend on them because I’ll eventually be on 40”+ tires and I’m not ecstatic about the FAD. Currently I’m running 37s with 5.13 gears and I’m still careful because they’re Trail Grapplers and when they bite they bite.

Yeah, I don't wheel like I used to, mainly just to get out and see new sites and just get away from the dipshittery of civilization. Maybe if I get more versed in what it really takes to DIY the gears I could justify regearing my sport set. Since I have that Torq locker in front that should suffice to do what I have planned. I think the toughest wheeling I would attempt would be the mid level Moab stuff, and for that 4.56 gears, my 315/70 tires, full skids, on a 2dr should be adequate. I'm pretty careful on the trail, no high rev tire slamming, just try to keep it slow & steady. I do know that my current 3.45s make it much harder just to let the Jeep do the work and can put your drivetrain in jeopardy from having to try to rev yourself through stuff. Not really a fan of having to "pop" through the rocks/obstacles lol.
This damn stuff is a quandary, and I have to pass it through the finance dept too, so there's that

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