Should I Regear?

[word302]

Yeah, I don't wheel like I used to, mainly just to get out and see new sites and just get away from the dipshittery of civilization. Maybe if I get more versed in what it really takes to DIY the gears I could justify regearing my sport set. Since I have that Torq locker in front that should suffice to do what I have planned. I think the toughest wheeling I would attempt would be the mid level Moab stuff, and for that 4.56 gears, my 315/70 tires, full skids, on a 2dr should be adequate. I'm pretty careful on the trail, no high rev tire slamming, just try to keep it slow & steady. I do know that my current 3.45s make it much harder just to let the Jeep do the work and can put your drivetrain in jeopardy from having to try to rev yourself through stuff. Not really a fan of having to "pop" through the rocks/obstacles lol.
This damn stuff is a quandary, and I have to pass it through the finance dept too, so there's that

Yeah I hate telling anyone "you'll be fine", but I really think you will be. I haven't been to Moab yet but I imagine you can go from very low traction to very high traction in a very short amount of time. That's really where you have to be careful. As far as the finance department, I plead the 5th.

Sponsored

 

[fuelfox4949]

I don't want to hijack this thread but after reading 16 pages of this drama I feel like I am allowed at least 1 question.
2021 2 door jl Rubicon 3.6/auto with full skids, heavy bumpers, heavy 35s, winch, I wheel every other weekend in Minnesota and going to Moab in 2 weeks, our highways are 70 mph.
i was thinking of going to 4.56 but 4.88 sounds SMRTER! lol
gimmie a quick vote please on what you would run.
p.s i would have loved to see carbonsteel rpm video with the current mileage the jeep says he is getting.

 

[word302]

I don't want to hijack this thread but after reading 16 pages of this drama I feel like I am allowed at least 1 question.
2021 2 door jl Rubicon 3.6/auto with full skids, heavy bumpers, heavy 35s, winch, I wheel every other weekend in Minnesota and going to Moab in 2 weeks, our highways are 70 mph.
i was thinking of going to 4.56 but 4.88 sounds SMRTER! lol
gimmie a quick vote please on what you would run.
p.s i would have loved to see carbonsteel rpm video with the current mileage the jeep says he is getting.

If you go 4.88 you won't be sorry. If you go 4.56 you might be

 

[Remorseless]

I don't want to hijack this thread but after reading 16 pages of this drama I feel like I am allowed at least 1 question.
2021 2 door jl Rubicon 3.6/auto with full skids, heavy bumpers, heavy 35s, winch, I wheel every other weekend in Minnesota and going to Moab in 2 weeks, our highways are 70 mph.
i was thinking of going to 4.56 but 4.88 sounds SMRTER! lol
gimmie a quick vote please on what you would run.
p.s i would have loved to see carbonsteel rpm video with the current mileage the jeep says he is getting.

My vote would be for 4.56. 1st gear in the 8 speed is pretty low (4.71), and I feel 4.56 is a better fit for a 35. I like 4.88 for 37s.

 

[fuelfox4949]

If you go 4.88 you won't be sorry. If you go 4.56 you might be

exactly what i was thinking reading between you and carbonsteel. just wanted a quick opinion. i thought going from 4.10 to 4.56 was kinda silly and with the added weight i dont think it would have made a night and day difference.

 

[fuelfox4949]

My vote would be for 4.56. 1st gear in the 8 speed is pretty low (4.71), and I feel 4.56 is a better fit for a 35. I like 4.88 for 37s.

only reason i was leaning towards 4.88 was because the current 35" ko2 E I have are like 68 pounds a tire. when it comes time i may go to the 37" k02 C that weighs like 64 pounds

 

[word302]

exactly what i was thinking reading between you and carbonsteel. just wanted a quick opinion. i thought going from 4.10 to 4.56 was kinda silly and with the added weight i dont think it would have made a night and day difference.

Yeah I wouldn't even bother going from 4.10 to 4.56. Not enough of a difference to justify the cost.

 

[word302]

I don't want to hijack this thread but after reading 16 pages of this drama I feel like I am allowed at least 1 question.
2021 2 door jl Rubicon 3.6/auto with full skids, heavy bumpers, heavy 35s, winch, I wheel every other weekend in Minnesota and going to Moab in 2 weeks, our highways are 70 mph.
i was thinking of going to 4.56 but 4.88 sounds SMRTER! lol
gimmie a quick vote please on what you would run.
p.s i would have loved to see carbonsteel rpm video with the current mileage the jeep says he is getting.

I'm not sure seeing @CarbonSteel video with current fuel efficiency really transfers since he's in traffic and at altitude. I'd pay more attention to the RPM and current gear indication.

 

[Remorseless]

exactly what i was thinking reading between you and carbonsteel. just wanted a quick opinion. i thought going from 4.10 to 4.56 was kinda silly and with the added weight i dont think it would have made a night and day difference.

It's more the low-speed throttle control that I find I like more gearing for - the "tractorness" of a Jeep in 4L. Stock, you've got like a 77:1 ratio, 4.56 moves it up to an 85.9:1, and 4.88 moves up to 91.9:1. I like each of those as stop points for tires at 33ish, 35ish, and 37ish, respectively. Those ratios and diameters have, over the years, just kind of jived better together for me.

 

[word302]

only reason i was leaning towards 4.88 was because the current 35" ko2 E I have are like 68 pounds a tire. when it comes time i may go to the 37" k02 C that weighs like 64 pounds

If you're thinking you will ever go 37s don't even consider 4.56. Go 4.88 or better yet 5.13. You do have a 2-door so take that into consideration. The 4.88s will work great with your 35s and still really well if you end up on 37s.

 

[grimmjeeper]

Yeah, I don't wheel like I used to, mainly just to get out and see new sites and just get away from the dipshittery of civilization. Maybe if I get more versed in what it really takes to DIY the gears I could justify regearing my sport set. Since I have that Torq locker in front that should suffice to do what I have planned. I think the toughest wheeling I would attempt would be the mid level Moab stuff, and for that 4.56 gears, my 315/70 tires, full skids, on a 2dr should be adequate. I'm pretty careful on the trail, no high rev tire slamming, just try to keep it slow & steady. I do know that my current 3.45s make it much harder just to let the Jeep do the work and can put your drivetrain in jeopardy from having to try to rev yourself through stuff. Not really a fan of having to "pop" through the rocks/obstacles lol.
This damn stuff is a quandary, and I have to pass it through the finance dept too, so there's that

I ran all over moab in my 2dr JK with the manual, 4.56 gears, and 315/75R17 tires. I didn't do the high end trails but I ran some 8s with no problem.

Traction in moab is generally pretty good. The "slickrock" got the name back when they were running covered wagons with the steel wrapped wooden wagon wheels. Rubber tires stick pretty well because it acts a bit like sandpaper.

If you plan on staying at or below the 5-6 rated trails and you don't bounce, your axles would survive. I'd still have a long term plan to upgrade the rear. The M200 will be close to its limit as you get more adventurous.

 

[grimmjeeper]

I don't want to hijack this thread but after reading 16 pages of this drama I feel like I am allowed at least 1 question.
2021 2 door jl Rubicon 3.6/auto with full skids, heavy bumpers, heavy 35s, winch, I wheel every other weekend in Minnesota and going to Moab in 2 weeks, our highways are 70 mph.
i was thinking of going to 4.56 but 4.88 sounds SMRTER! lol
gimmie a quick vote please on what you would run.
p.s i would have loved to see carbonsteel rpm video with the current mileage the jeep says he is getting.

4.10 to 4.56 is a waste of money. If you change out gears go up to 4.88s. With the automatic, the 4.10s will get the job done in Moab. The 4:1 transfer case and low first gear in the transmission are pretty effective.

 

[grimmjeeper]

only reason i was leaning towards 4.88 was because the current 35" ko2 E I have are like 68 pounds a tire. when it comes time i may go to the 37" k02 C that weighs like 64 pounds

Weight is a lot less important than diameter. You use diameter to do the initial calculation. The weight is only the reason why you round up after the diameter calculation.

 

[fuelfox4949]

Weight is a lot less important than diameter. You use diameter to do the initial calculation. The weight is only the reason why you round up after the diameter calculation.

Strange i thought turning a 37 that weighs less would be easier then a 35 that weighs more.
But your saying diameter plays more of a role?

 

[grimmjeeper]

Strange i thought turning a 37 that weighs less would be easier then a 35 that weighs more.
But your saying diameter plays more of a role?

Yep. Diameter makes for a longer or shorter lever. Diameter affects RPM at speed. Diameter is the big driver of decisions for gears.

Weight has an impact for sure. But not as much as diameter.

Edit: think of it this way. The tire diameter is one side of the lever, the gears are the other side. The engine pushes on the gear side of the lever. If you make the tire side longer without making the gear side longer too the engine has to work harder. Match the gear side with the tire side and the engine is back to being happy.

Sponsored