Running 75 PSI

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jfox

jfox

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Quick update.... wheel hero just notified me that they are willing to switch out for the toyo's if I pay the difference.

I can really appreciate that effort to make things right as they would now be getting back used tires.

So a little good news... but again, not sure if this is a tire issue... or an idiot issue.

Dealership used Road Force balancer and still couldn't get it right... and used a lot of weight to get it "best as possible".
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Carlton

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Yes... story is even worse than I originally posted.

So I ordered these on wheelhero.com and they had 2 tires in this size that were "E" rated (nothing lower at this size). I chose the Fuel tires because it saved me $500 and they were telling me how great they were. Plus they were MT's which is what I wanted.

So turns out when I got them they were F rated... I didn't realize this until I had them on and was concerned about the shaky ride.
I contacted wheelhero.com and they are telling me D, E, F, all ride the same... and are clearly not wanting to correct anything even though they were posted incorrectly on their site. Thing they don't realize yet is I have a really good lawyer... like better than you guys are imagining right now... that will go after these guys for the fun of it.

Now... on the other side, I've driven these things for a day now... and they really are riding good at 35psi with the new balance... so kind of questioning what my next move will be.

Here's a screenshot of their website... they've changed it since I notified them of the error.

Screen Shot 2018-10-04 at 8.58.57 AM.png
Personally, I wouldn't run an F rated tire on a jeep. I usually go with a C or D rated tire. E if it is all that is available in the tire I really want. However, if they are running fine now, you might as well stick with them.
 

vavaroutsos

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Just an fyi - balance beads are a good option. Allows you to avoid having dealerships balance your wheels entirely.

My 37" Cooper tires take 10oz of balance beads per wheel.

And they balance wonderfully. And, the great thing about them, is that as the tire wears they will always be balanced. Regardless.
Balance beads correct radial balance, but not axial balance. I use them (air soft pellets) in my bead locks, but they can't correct all balance problems.
 

Torero

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Balance beads correct radial balance, but not axial balance. I use them (air soft pellets) in my bead locks, but they can't correct all balance problems.
What is axial balance vs radial balance?:bandit:
 

vavaroutsos

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What is axial balance vs radial balance?:bandit:
Axial balance is from the inside to the outside of the tire. Radial balance is around the perimeter of the tire. Weights are put on the inside/outside of the wheel to correct axial balance. Balance beads distribute symmetrically from the inside to the outside of the tire in locations of low radial weight. So they correct the radial balance, but not axial balance. I think this is the main cause for some people having bad results with them while others claim they work great. The guys that make the over priced balance bead materials will have you believe they are the perfect solution.
 

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@jfox
Were I you, I would find a tire shop in your local area that has a Hunter and have that shop do your force balance. Forget going back to that dealership and letting that nitwit do your balancing.
 
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@jfox
Were I you, I would find a tire shop in your local area that has a Hunter and have that shop do your force balance. Forget going back to that dealership and letting that nitwit do your balancing.
Yep, I have an appointment for Wed of next week at a local off-road shop to redo the work Jeep already did.

On a side note, Jeep Dealership has yet to return my call, was trying to get the printout from the balancing. I received an email from them asking if I was satisfied with my experience.... i said "no" and they asked me for a phone number so someone could reach out about my experience. Haven't received that call either. Got a survey last night about my experience... hope someone actually reads that, otherwise just 15 min of my life I'll never get back.
 

AK0311

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I drive a Ram 2500 at the moment (ordering a 19 JLUR in December). My tires on that are around 75 psi. It's generally about the weight/load rating as to what your inflation psi should be set at. I ran box trucks at my last job. 2 were based on Class 5 trucks (semi truck cabs/chassis). Those ran 90+ if I recall correctly. In a Jeep type tire (All Terrain, 5000-6000 pound curb weight estimated), I'd expect 35-40 psi, no matter what the sidewall says. My load range E tires say 80 psi max, but I never run above 75, even when I have 2500 pounds in the bed or pulling 12000 pounds of trailer.

It sounds like the dealership service guy is a tool. Unfortunately, this seems to be the rule rather than the exception. I have two Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram dealers in my town. One I will not let work on any vehicle I own. Fool me once, shame on you, fool me twice, shame on me. The third go round, they returned my truck with more issues than when I dropped it off AND I had to pay a half hour of labor. The other dealer has one service writer that gets all my business. My wife drives a Dodge as well, so we have a vehicle there at least twice a year for something. The others try the same crap. Tony knows I have a general knowledge of vehicle mechanics (7+ years doing PM's on military vehicles + was a helicopter mechanic for half that time too) and I don't put up with BS.
 

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  1. Try to stay as close as possible to a LOAD C tire if you wanna maintain a factory ride.
  2. Find a place that does Hunter Road Force Elite ( https://www.hunter.com/gsp9700 )
  3. If a tech tells you to air up your tires to MAX pressure, run away
  4. At least when I worked for a tire shop, it was a BIG no-no to counter balance wheels (having weight on multiple areas on one side)
 
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