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Rubicon sway bar end links

RickyPal

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I searched a bit and did not see much discussion on this. Are there any cons to installing a manual disconnect (Probably Pinned Metalcloak) to a rubicon sway bar? Several folks on trails have suggested I do this. Basically the benefit to keeping both is to have the e disconnect for light wheeling and fire roads, and when we go crawling, unpin the manual links. Don’t want to move to the Evo system because I’d just run into the same issues here.

I recently have started working on my own lift setup and I am seeing the fixed length Metalcloak sway bar end links bind, see image below. This is why I believe people say they limit flex, and this could be solved by the RK no limits heims, but I think the manual disconnect is another solution for 1/3 the price?

Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon sway bar end links FD660455-1BD0-488E-BBCE-F7719B2B6C57


I see three upgrade paths:

1.) Manual disconnect
2.) RK No Limits Links
3.) Antirock


My preference is 1.) since it’s $100 bucks, I don’t mind climbing under the jeep to pull pins, and saves me $200 compared to 2.)

3.) is nice and everything but is a lot more cash for technically less articulation (but arguable more useful articulation). It’s out of scope for now.

As a parting question, is there any truth that the rubicon away bar limits articulation outside of the links binding as I have shown?
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I searched a bit and did not see much discussion on this. Are there any cons to installing a manual disconnect (Probably Pinned Metalcloak) to a rubicon sway bar? Several folks on trails have suggested I do this. Basically the benefit to keeping both is to have the e disconnect for light wheeling and fire roads, and when we go crawling, unpin the manual links. Don’t want to move to the Evo system because I’d just run into the same issues here.

I recently have started working on my own lift setup and I am seeing the fixed length Metalcloak sway bar end links bind, see image below. This is why I believe people say they limit flex, and this could be solved by the RK no limits heims, but I think the manual disconnect is another solution for 1/3 the price?

FD660455-1BD0-488E-BBCE-F7719B2B6C57.jpeg


I see three upgrade paths:

1.) Manual disconnect
2.) RK No Limits Links
3.) Antirock


My preference is 1.) since it’s $100 bucks, I don’t mind climbing under the jeep to pull pins, and saves me $200 compared to 2.)

3.) is nice and everything but is a lot more cash for technically less articulation (but arguable more useful articulation). It’s out of scope for now.

As a parting question, is there any truth that the rubicon away bar limits articulation outside of the links binding as I have shown?
I don't know that the stock swaybar and disconnect limit articulation, but the pic in my avatar is with 3.5" metalcloak lift, stock swaybar and disconnect. My articulation seems to really only be limited by my fenders and shock travel.
 
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RickyPal

RickyPal

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I don't know that the stock swaybar and disconnect limit articulation, but the pic in my avatar is with 3.5" metalcloak lift, stock swaybar and disconnect. My articulation seems to really only be limited by my fenders and shock travel.
That’s not bad at all. This is mine in the wild. I’m wondering if all of these suggestions I am getting have no real merit but I was curious.

Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon sway bar end links 2F6428D0-E590-427F-8EE7-E1D1CA874832
 

Roky

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I searched a bit and did not see much discussion on this. Are there any cons to installing a manual disconnect (Probably Pinned Metalcloak) to a rubicon sway bar? Several folks on trails have suggested I do this. Basically the benefit to keeping both is to have the e disconnect for light wheeling and fire roads, and when we go crawling, unpin the manual links. Don’t want to move to the Evo system because I’d just run into the same issues here.

I recently have started working on my own lift setup and I am seeing the fixed length Metalcloak sway bar end links bind, see image below. This is why I believe people say they limit flex, and this could be solved by the RK no limits heims, but I think the manual disconnect is another solution for 1/3 the price?

FD660455-1BD0-488E-BBCE-F7719B2B6C57.webp


I see three upgrade paths:

1.) Manual disconnect
2.) RK No Limits Links
3.) Antirock


My preference is 1.) since it’s $100 bucks, I don’t mind climbing under the jeep to pull pins, and saves me $200 compared to 2.)

3.) is nice and everything but is a lot more cash for technically less articulation (but arguable more useful articulation). It’s out of scope for now.

As a parting question, is there any truth that the rubicon away bar limits articulation outside of the links binding as I have shown?
There is no difference between using the Rubi disconnect and unhooking the end links as long as you’re using the right end links….
 
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RickyPal

RickyPal

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There is no difference between using the Rubi disconnect and unhooking the end links as long as you’re using the right end links….
Which I assume you are heim jointed ones, not the ones metal cloak uses on their GC lift?
 

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Roky

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RickyPal

RickyPal

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MC links are long enough that they work, but it does pinch the bushing at full stuff…but they just came out with their own version of a dbl heim design……

https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-premium-front-sway-bar-link-kit.html
Hey somehow I missed those. Maybe I’ll just go down that route.

I was mostly curious if there was something known in the mechanism that limits flex or wears faster than it needs to when being pushed that would benefit to just being manually disconnected. Seems like that is a no. Just found it odd that several people over the last year suggested that while we were out wheeling.
 

Roky

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Hey somehow I missed those. Maybe I’ll just go down that route.

I was mostly curious if there was something known in the mechanism that limits flex or wears faster than it needs to when being pushed that would benefit to just being manually disconnected. Seems like that is a no. Just found it odd that several people over the last year suggested that while we were out wheeling.
A lot of times people just repeat what they read, or here, without actually looking into something they read or heard……. That’s where a lot of bad and/or misinformation comes from on the web……anyway…. Here a couple pics showing the oem style which the original MCs are like and the dbl heim links……

Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon sway bar end links IMG_8092
Jeep Wrangler JL Rubicon sway bar end links IMG_8093
 

Reinen

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I searched a bit and did not see much discussion on this. Are there any cons to installing a manual disconnect (Probably Pinned Metalcloak) to a rubicon sway bar? Several folks on trails have suggested I do this. Basically the benefit to keeping both is to have the e disconnect for light wheeling and fire roads, and when we go crawling, unpin the manual links. Don’t want to move to the Evo system because I’d just run into the same issues here.

I recently have started working on my own lift setup and I am seeing the fixed length Metalcloak sway bar end links bind, see image below. This is why I believe people say they limit flex, and this could be solved by the RK no limits heims, but I think the manual disconnect is another solution for 1/3 the price?

FD660455-1BD0-488E-BBCE-F7719B2B6C57.webp


I see three upgrade paths:

1.) Manual disconnect
2.) RK No Limits Links
3.) Antirock


My preference is 1.) since it’s $100 bucks, I don’t mind climbing under the jeep to pull pins, and saves me $200 compared to 2.)

3.) is nice and everything but is a lot more cash for technically less articulation (but arguable more useful articulation). It’s out of scope for now.

As a parting question, is there any truth that the rubicon away bar limits articulation outside of the links binding as I have shown?
That end link looks a little long to me but I guess this is fully articulated. Where does the sway bar sit on flat ground? It should be parallel to the ground to slightly raised. What does fully extended look like? You don't want it to invert.
 

GATORB8

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MC links are long enough that they work, but it does pinch the bushing at full stuff…but they just came out with their own version of a dbl heim design……

https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-premium-front-sway-bar-link-kit.html
I ordered these this weekend while they were on sale. Should be able to share some shots when they come in.

I'm low offset, so I've scrubbed the boots a few times, but other than that, really just swapping to look cooler for @Roky
 

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RickyPal

RickyPal

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That end link looks a little long to me but I guess this is fully articulated. Where does the sway bar sit on flat ground? It should be parallel to the ground to slightly raised. What does fully extended look like? You don't want it to invert.
Yeah slightly raised about 10ish degrees. The picture is full bump
 
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RickyPal

RickyPal

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I ordered these this weekend while they were on sale. Should be able to share some shots when they come in.

I'm low offset, so I've scrubbed the boots a few times, but other than that, really just swapping to look cooler for @Roky
Well looking cool to Roky is super important. Lol.

I get a click noise when I disconnect my e disco and I get the same noise when I am fully flexed out, so I was wondering if it could be the end link touching the bracket as shown, and the metal on metal makes the clicking, or the mechanism is being over stressed due to the bind? That’s really what lead to ask the end link question. The noise is not harsh at all.
 

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Please excuse my ignorance about this.
But the Rubicon with its sway bars disconnect, doesn't truly disconnect them, is that the problem ?
 
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RickyPal

RickyPal

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Please excuse my ignorance about this.
But the Rubicon with its sway bars disconnect, doesn't truly disconnect them, is that the problem ?
That was the question. If it still being connected had any downsides. II think the answer seems to be generally no. Long enough links to prevent over rotation, and rotational joints such as on the rock krawler or metal cloak premium links allow for as free of movement as being manually disconnected.

I’d like to run a test where I physically unbolt the sway bar in the future and compare for my own sake, but I’ll do this when I upgrade to the heim links.

I guess the only benefit to a manual disconnect on a rubicon if above is true is avoiding issues after the mechanism has failed. If the rubicon bar doesn’t limit articulation, I’d rather than the manual Evo knob at that time (my current plan).
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