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ride super rough shocks/springs something else?

Ryand

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MC adjustable control arms all around
caster is at 5.5 degrees
using Clayton 4.5 front and 3.5 inch springs on back (per their suggestion)
shocks (recommended by clayton) Fox Perf IFPs (FOX985-24-180 and FOX985-24-179)
Tires 35'K02's with wheel spacers to avoid rub on 17" rubi take off rims (inflated to only 24)

I have verified its not the bushings (or at least I loosened all CAs and then actually drove around my dirt road and bounced on my bumper before tightening at ride height) as well as messed with inflation.

I can feel every seem in the road, every little dip. it's almost shocking. My stock ride was smooth and comfortable. Any ideas? was told that if I pull the shocks and drive just on my quiet dirt road and its significantly better might be shocks. I'm willing to try whatever to get this figured out.
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jav_eee

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If it isn’t stock it won’t ride stock. Probably a combination of stiffer springs and shocks. You mentioned tire pressure being 24, good move there.
 

BrierPatch

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Did you get load range E tires? They will ride rougher even at lower pressures.
 

AZ Hella

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Did you get load range E tires? They will ride rougher even at lower pressures.
This. I just recently swapped out my load range E tires for C’s and the Jeep rides like a 70’s Cadillac now.
I mounted my E rated coopers on some steelies for when I hit the rough stuff.
 

Upnarms

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I run e load tires, 35" Falken wildpeak at3 and it isn't rough at all. Maybe just depends on the manufacturer. Off road I run them at 20 psi, on road 34. No noticeable difference in feel from my previous c load ko2s. Would seem to me the obvious change are the shocks/springs. The factory shocks/springs are super soft. Too soft imo. I got an aev dualsport lift and it was much stiffer but still doesn't ride harsh. I have no experience with the Claytons or Fox shocks you have, sorry.
 

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Zandcwhite

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Control arm angles now transfer impacts front to back much more than they did at stock height. With flat arms almost all the force is transferred vertically and absorbed by the springs and shocks. Long arms or control arm drop brackets will make a huge impact there. I was amazed just how big of an improvement the metal cloak drop brackets made on rough roads at speed. We bun bilstein 5100s which are a stiffer shock than the foxes and it is still smoother over bumps than it was stock. As far as on and off road ride they were by far the best $300 I’ve ever spent on a Jeep mod.
 

Upnarms

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Control arm angles now transfer impacts front to back much more than they did at stock height. With flat arms almost all the force is transferred vertically and absorbed by the springs and shocks. Long arms or control arm drop brackets will make a huge impact there. I was amazed just how big of an improvement the metal cloak drop brackets made on rough roads at speed. We bun bilstein 5100s which are a stiffer shock than the foxes and it is still smoother over bumps than it was stock. As far as on and off road ride they were by far the best $300 I’ve ever spent on a Jeep mod.
That's a good point. My aev lift has geometry correcting brackets for the front arms. Maybe why the ride didn't seem harsher
 
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Ryand

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Control arm angles now transfer impacts front to back much more than they did at stock height. With flat arms almost all the force is transferred vertically and absorbed by the springs and shocks. Long arms or control arm drop brackets will make a huge impact there. I was amazed just how big of an improvement the metal cloak drop brackets made on rough roads at speed. We bun bilstein 5100s which are a stiffer shock than the foxes and it is still smoother over bumps than it was stock. As far as on and off road ride they were by far the best $300 I’ve ever spent on a Jeep mod.
That's super helfpful. Will take a look at those brackets. Also found a set of 3 stage JL Diesel springs from RK on Northridge for 47% off. Going to see if they make any difference. If not, on to the brackets. I do have E-Rated tires but I would get bad stares from the wife if I were to try and swap those now. I am still in negotiations for beadlocks and 37s for next season
 

Riotfunk

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Fox IFP are a stiff shock. Off-road they’re ok, on road they feel like you have no shocks. Plus you’re adding E rated tires. And a stiffer and longer spring out front. What extra weight are you running on your rig?
Unless you’re building fox shocks for your specific rig, ie, weight etc, they don’t perform or ride well.
 

word302

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How much space do you have at the bump stops for uptravel? With the new extended jounce on many models you may have too much bump stop extension.
 

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wanderer

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I am having the same problem and it turns out that they left a part off the rear suspension plus the other front links on the back and the back links on the front. Do you know what the drop arm part number is from metal cloak ? The part left off my jeep is the rear drop arm sway bar part no 7026 here is what metal cloak said
“The end links that are installed on the rear are for the front of the jeep.
The installed the rear stock end links up front. They should be put in the back and installed with the sway bar drop ( 7026 ) that was included in the kit.”
What did you finally figure
Out?
 

AVGeek99

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Control arm angles now transfer impacts front to back much more than they did at stock height. With flat arms almost all the force is transferred vertically and absorbed by the springs and shocks. Long arms or control arm drop brackets will make a huge impact there. I was amazed just how big of an improvement the metal cloak drop brackets made on rough roads at speed. We bun bilstein 5100s which are a stiffer shock than the foxes and it is still smoother over bumps than it was stock. As far as on and off road ride they were by far the best $300 I’ve ever spent on a Jeep mod.
Do you run the drop brackets in both front and rear? I'm in the process of moving my MC 3.5 GC to my new 2025. I got my 2021 returned to stock and will be installing on the 2025 this weekend. I was initially going to try it out with no drop brackets.

The fronts rarely have any negative impacts off road, but the DB3 rear drop brackets have a tendency to catch the edge of larger ledges. I really liked the ride quality of my 2021. Am I better off just installing the drop brackets?
 

wanderer

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Mine is riding really rough but the
Rear drop bar was not installed And there were other mistakes made so not sure what to do
 

Zandcwhite

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Do you run the drop brackets in both front and rear? I'm in the process of moving my MC 3.5 GC to my new 2025. I got my 2021 returned to stock and will be installing on the 2025 this weekend. I was initially going to try it out with no drop brackets.

The fronts rarely have any negative impacts off road, but the DB3 rear drop brackets have a tendency to catch the edge of larger ledges. I really liked the ride quality of my 2021. Am I better off just installing the drop brackets?
We only run them in the front. I think the rear are far less important as the axle pushing rearward and up instead of mostly just up shouldn't effect ride going forward much at all. On road you're rarely hitting potholes or speed bumps in reverse and if you are the speeds are low anyway. I could picture them helping when trying to back over an obstacle which does happen but is still rare compared to going forward.
 

AVGeek99

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We only run them in the front. I think the rear are far less important as the axle pushing rearward and up instead of mostly just up shouldn't effect ride going forward much at all. On road you're rarely hitting potholes or speed bumps in reverse and if you are the speeds are low anyway. I could picture them helping when trying to back over an obstacle which does happen but is still rare compared to going forward.
I guess I will install the front drop brackets and at least start without the drop brackets in the rear. I really hope it doesn't impact the ride too negatively. It would be nice to get the extra clearance without having them!! The fronts have never given me issues so I guess no reason not to use them.
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