They're only there for gas mileage. Ditch it if you want. If you love spending money on gas, then you will love that modI know many have removed the front rock guard/air dam, but is there a good reason to leave it on? I have a Sport Altitude with the stock plastic bumper. I'd like to remove the plastic and metal pieces.
We both know you need one of theseA new front bumper required the removal of my air dam, leaving a vulnerable path to the sway bar motor. (Low risk, moderate impact.) I'm checking into a compatible skid plate, but I'm wondering how much more I'd spend getting someone to craft a replacement that act more like the original air dam.
Aerodynamics might be of marginal improvement, but I think the topic is picking up interest right now.
So excited to put mine in next week and actually get some use out of my aux switch install!I got one of these from Oracle. Solved my problem.
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Just flip the motor up….moves it up by at least a few inches. Took me about 20 minutes with my bumper still on.A new front bumper required the removal of my air dam, leaving a vulnerable path to the sway bar motor. (Low risk, moderate impact.) I'm checking into a compatible skid plate, but I'm wondering how much more I'd spend getting someone to craft a replacement that act more like the original air dam.
Aerodynamics might be of marginal improvement, but I think the topic is picking up interest right now.
YES. Show me when you do!We both know you need one of these
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So excited to put mine in next week and actually get some use out of my aux switch install!
I think it's a convenient location for lights, fogs or pure whites like what I got. Since I don't crawl I'm not so worried about a pod getting smashed, and it'll look a lot better than the chunky air dam. I watched Oracle's vid on install last night (still have the 30 second riff of chugging heavy metal on repeat living in my head rent free) and it looks dead simple, need to figure out what to do about bypassing their goober toggle switch though. Instructions might clear that up, I haven't popped the box yet since I'm on all weekend. I hear you on the wait, went through the same hurdles last year with my color matched half doors. In the end, the local shop did a fantastic job, well worth the wait. But it was a hefty chunk of change.YES. Show me when you do!
You don't know how on-target this suggestion (in particular) is right now. It's a really good place to put the fog lights, right? But I've got to pump the brakes and not go too far ahead of myself without developing a concrete overall vision of where I'm heading with everything.
I've arranged for some consultation time with a very sharp small-crew custom design shop in my area... two months from now. It's an awful wait to onboard a new customer, but if it's justified... it's justified.
My intent, if going with those lights, was to use the vehicle's own fog light circuit to activate a relay that then fed the lights through an existing AUX or fused to battery. Not a sure-thing as far as the BCM accepting it without faulting, but I figured it could probably be quieted down with JScan.I watched Oracle's vid on install last night (still have the 30 second riff of chugging heavy metal on repeat living in my head rent free) and it looks dead simple, need to figure out what to do about bypassing their goober toggle switch though.
FWIW the amber lights are plenty bright. I would think the white lights would be tremendously bright.We both know you need one of these
So excited to put mine in next week and actually get some use out of my aux switch install!
After installing the front and rear Antirocks, I was also able to delete the steel skid plate that only served to protect the edisconnect motor. I was originally planning on cutting the tusks off flush with the frame rail, but glad I was delayed when just a few weeks later I realized I needed them to mount a Warn winch plate. Also spent more time looking at the tusks when installing that plate. Even if I didn't need them for the winch plate, I still wouldn't cut them completely off, but more of an abbreviation so they would protect the sway bar bushings from possibly getting sheered off or crimpled. My thought is that one would feel a bump to the tusk and know to back off, but the sway bar bushings would be wrecked before feeling that a back off was needed.I need to cut the stupid frame horns off. I moved my sway motor up years ago when I put my bumper on. It's close to my winch plate, but hasn't hit it yet.