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Reid Racing Steering knuckles

gato

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Sorry to hijack, but does anyone know the part numbers for the iron OEM knuckles that come on the 392/diesel and Xtreme recon? How do they compare to Reid?

My ball joints conti nue to click(less so than before) even after I tightened them, and I have had DW (fixed at the moment by tightening the tierod ball joints. I just feel that these aluminum knuckles are not up to the task. I feel that I'll have to continue to tighten all the ball joints as the aluminum gives way. I'm getting worried that it will cause problems over time.
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Sorry to hijack, but does anyone know the part numbers for the iron OEM knuckles that come on the 392/diesel and Xtreme recon? How do they compare to Reid?

My ball joints conti nue to click(less so than before) even after I tightened them, and I have had DW (fixed at the moment by tightening the tierod ball joints. I just feel that these aluminum knuckles are not up to the task. I feel that I'll have to continue to tighten all the ball joints as the aluminum gives way. I'm getting worried that it will cause problems over time.
68477359AA
68477358AA …………….I think 🤔
 

gato

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68477359AA
68477358AA …………….I think 🤔
Thank you. I'll look it up. Hopefully they are available for ordering.
 

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CarbonSteel

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Sorry to hijack, but does anyone know the part numbers for the iron OEM knuckles that come on the 392/diesel and Xtreme recon? How do they compare to Reid?

My ball joints conti nue to click(less so than before) even after I tightened them, and I have had DW (fixed at the moment by tightening the tierod ball joints. I just feel that these aluminum knuckles are not up to the task. I feel that I'll have to continue to tighten all the ball joints as the aluminum gives way. I'm getting worried that it will cause problems over time.
Here are the Mopar numbers you need:

68477358AA - Front Knuckle, Right
68477359AA - Front Knuckle, Left

I installed them on my Rubicon when I re-geared it.

The difference between them is:

Reid's are powder coated orange and Mopar is black
Reid's are not drilled and tapped for steering stops and Mopar is.
 

gato

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Here are the Mopar numbers you need:

68477358AA - Front Knuckle, Right
68477359AA - Front Knuckle, Left

I installed them on my Rubicon when I re-geared it.

The difference between them is:

Reid's are powder coated orange and Mopar is black
Reid's are not drilled and tapped for steering stops and Mopar is.
Thank you so much. Yes. I figured I'd have fewer problems if I went with the Mopar ones. This will be the first thing on my Jeep that I will not do myself. I don't feel brave enough to tackle removing the knuckles and pressing out/in 4 ball joints. I Just figured I should do both together.

I have no competent 4WD shops near me, and my Jeep friends mostly work on oder Jeeps.
 

word302

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Thank you so much. Yes. I figured I'd have fewer problems if I went with the Mopar ones. This will be the first thing on my Jeep that I will not do myself. I don't feel brave enough to tackle removing the knuckles and pressing out/in 4 ball joints. I Just figured I should do both together.

I have no competent 4WD shops near me, and my Jeep friends mostly work on oder Jeeps.
It's really not that hard of a job.
 

APiratesLife4Me

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Thank you so much. Yes. I figured I'd have fewer problems if I went with the Mopar ones. This will be the first thing on my Jeep that I will not do myself. I don't feel brave enough to tackle removing the knuckles and pressing out/in 4 ball joints. I Just figured I should do both together.

I have no competent 4WD shops near me, and my Jeep friends mostly work on oder Jeeps.
This is a REALLY slippery slope, but if you're pulling the knuckles it's actually MORE work to reuse your ball joints that you're already having problems with. I strongly suggest you replace those too. And since you have to remove the drag link and tie rod anyway ........ see where I'm going?

For what it's worth, I did the Reids, Dynatrac ball joints, and Fusion steering all at once and I went from "just OK" steering to AMAZING steering. I even still have the aluminum steering box.

Also, as far as steering stops. The longer/non-threaded steering stops were a selling point for me. I wanted a hard stop that wouldn't back out to slightly reduce my steering angle so my shiny new RCVs would be happier.
 

FinnCustomKnives

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Sorry if this has been discussed, but the diesels have the cast iron knuckles?! I'm pretty positive my JLURD with a build date of 2/27/21 has the aluminum knuckles.
 

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gato

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This is a REALLY slippery slope, but if you're pulling the knuckles it's actually MORE work to reuse your ball joints that you're already having problems with. I strongly suggest you replace those too. And since you have to remove the drag link and tie rod anyway ........ see where I'm going?

For what it's worth, I did the Reids, Dynatrac ball joints, and Fusion steering all at once and I went from "just OK" steering to AMAZING steering. I even still have the aluminum steering box.

Also, as far as steering stops. The longer/non-threaded steering stops were a selling point for me. I wanted a hard stop that wouldn't back out to slightly reduce my steering angle so my shiny new RCVs would be happier.
Totally agree on not reusing the ball joints. Goal would be new knuckles and new ball joints done at the same time. My steering feels very good other than the clicking and clanking.

I'm debating letting the dealer take a crack at it (in the remote chance they'll cover the ball joints under warranty). But if not under warranty, I'll have to drive 90 min to a shop that can do a decent job replacing the ball joints and knuckles.
 

gato

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It's really not that hard of a job.
I hear you. But I also hear stories of people getting stuck for hours on some thing that should be simple like the cotter pins or getting the knuckle out. Also I hear that you have to open the FAD to pull the half shaft, etc. Sounds like you need to pull a lot of parts before getting to the ball joints pulling part.

Sound daunting.
 

CarbonSteel

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I hear you. But I also hear stories of people getting stuck for hours on some thing that should be simple like the cotter pins or getting the knuckle out. Also I hear that you have to open the FAD to pull the half shaft, etc. Sounds like you need to pull a lot of parts before getting to the ball joints pulling part.

Sound daunting.
I consider myself very technically capable and able to upgrade/repair many things on my Jeep. Changing out the steering knuckles is not something I would undertake as a "driveway" mechanic. I had the shop replace mine when I re-geared/trussed/lifted it.
 

gato

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I consider myself very technically capable and able to upgrade/repair many things on my Jeep. Changing out the steering knuckles is not something I would undertake as a "driveway" mechanic. I had the shop replace mine when I re-geared/trussed/lifted it.
Thank you - you officially talked me out of it. I'll stop looking at Amazon ball joint puller kits now.

Question, are Jeep dealer techs up to doing it correctly or does it have to be a specialty shop?
 

CarbonSteel

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Thank you - you officially talked me out of it. I'll stop looking at Amazon ball joint puller kits now.

Question, are Jeep dealer techs up to doing it correctly or does it have to be a specialty shop?
I am not sure that I would trust Jeep to change my oil much less replace the steering knuckles and they probably would not want to install anything other than Mopar parts bought from them. I would go with Dynatrac ball joints and have a local Jeep shop do the work.
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