Recursive door unlock

[Fuel Fire Desire]

I just had something odd happen.

After parking and shutting down, I use the door handle to open the door while locked. Typically this triggers an unlock cycle on all doors. As I pulled the handle, the doors all unlocked, but a low intensity cyclic unlock command began. The lock relay behind the glove compartment was clicking, and all the door lock actuators began clicking at about the same frequency as a turn signal. I could manually lock/ unlock the door, and the lock would not change position on its own, as if the actuator didn’t have the power to move, but was clicking about twice a second. Pressing lock/ unlock on the fob or door switches did nothing. It continued even after the Jeep went dark, and continued after an ACC/ RUN/ start sequence. Fob and door switch still inoperative. The clicking continued, but faded in intensity until only the relay behind the glove box was clicking, and then it trailed off to a stop, but at the same frequency. The event lasted for about 30 seconds.

It’s almost as if the door lock system entered into a low current recursive boot loop, and trailed off in intensity as if a capacitor was draining out in the system. A subsequent trial of the fob/ door switches acted normal.

I’ve never seen anything like this before. 2018 with 58,000 mi and a Tazer installed two months ago. Could not duplicate.

Any ideas?

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[jludave]

Any ideas?

Change the batteries in your fobs.

Also, consider changing your vehicle's batteries if you have not already done so. You have a 2018 and are beyond the lifespan of the stock/OEM battery/batteries. Aging/dying/old batteries cause all types of weird electrical issues on the JL.

 

[GATORB8]

May be worth a reboot of the tazer and making sure the sleep cycles take.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

@Fuel Fire Desire

So many things could trigger this hiccup.

I would not obsess on this happening.... very good chance it was a one time occurrence. Time will tell.

For sure .... regardless.... if your 2018 JL is still running the original, 5yr. old factory batteries, a priority for you, should be changing out both batteries asap.

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

Change the batteries in your fobs.

Also, consider changing your vehicle's batteries if you have not already done so. You have a 2018 and are beyond the lifespan of the stock/OEM battery/batteries. Aging/dying/old batteries cause all types of weird electrical issues on the JL.

I’m pretty sure it’s not the fob. It’s in the chassis system.
It could very well be the batteries. They are original and I know I’m playing with fire at this point. A true dual battery setup is coming this summer. I don’t use ESS (disabled) so I don’t need the AGM at all. It’s a liability at this point.

cold battery system voltage is reading 12.2v from a meter.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I’m pretty sure it’s not the fob. It’s in the chassis system.
It could very well be the batteries. They are original and I know I’m playing with fire at this point. A true dual battery setup is coming this summer. I don’t use ESS (disabled) so I don’t need the AGM at all. It’s a liability at this point.

cold battery system voltage is reading 12.2v from a meter.

@Fuel Fire Desire

Very big possibility the hiccup was 12v power related. I would not even consider using my/any JL with a constant / routine, 12.2 reading.

Common misconception is that if you keep ESS feature off/do not use ESS thanks to a button push or a SmartStopStart unit or a Tazer JL, etc., that in essence does the button push for you, that the Aux battery is not used so will remain healthy, not be in play, not negatively impact the Main battery, etc..

Reality is the AGM, Aux battery is in play regardless as it is hooked up in parallel with the AGM, Main battery. With that said if the Main battery goes bad the Aux battery is negatively impacted and vice versa..

Were I you, I'd put a big rush on Summer ..... or until you get that pricey aftermarket dual battery system .... I'd bypass the Aux. and also install a new Main..

Bypass of Aux battery,(not delete of battery) takes probably 30 seconds to do.

As for $ outlay.... ($200 or so for a new Main battery) It is far better to lay out $200 then to get into a no start situation where you get stranded and have to have the JL flat bed-ed to wherever..

.

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

@Fuel Fire Desire

Very big possibility the hiccup was 12v power related. I would not even consider using my/any JL with a constant / routine, 12.2 reading.

Common misconception is that if you keep ESS feature off/do not use ESS thanks to a button push or a SmartStopStart unit or a Tazer JL, etc., that in essence does the button push for you, that the Aux battery is not used so will remain healthy, not be in play, not negatively impact the Main battery, etc..

Reality is the AGM, Aux battery is in play regardless as it is hooked up in parallel with the AGM, Main battery. With that said if the Main battery goes bad the Aux battery is negatively impacted and vice versa..

Were I you, I'd put a big rush on Summer ..... or until you get that pricey aftermarket dual battery system .... I'd bypass the Aux. and also install a new Main..

Bypass of Aux battery,(not delete of battery) takes probably 30 seconds to do.

As for $ outlay.... ($200 or so for a new Main battery) It is far better to lay out $200 then to get into a no start situation where you get stranded and have to have the JL flat bed-ed to wherever..

.

Yep. I didn’t know it was holding 12.2v until I checked for this thread. I’m doing electrical on it today (unrelated) and will probably bypass the AGM and throw a battery in it today too. Not good.

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

Battery read 11.9v after sitting. I had a no start the first attempt to go to the parts store. Batteries were shot. I just changed them both out with factory equivalent. Absolute PITA to get to the ESS batt. And I even went in from the side.

Starting is much more energetic, and door locks pop with authority instead of the slow thunk I’ve had for quite a while. Huge difference in batt only power output. I’m almost positive the door lock issue was a result of an undervolt.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Battery read 11.9v after sitting. I had a no start the first attempt to go to the parts store. Batteries were shot. I just changed them both out with factory equivalent. Absolute PITA to get to the ESS batt. And I even went in from the side.

Starting is much more energetic, and door locks pop with authority instead of the slow thunk I’ve had for quite a while. Huge difference in batt only power output. I’m almost positive the door lock issue was a result of an undervolt.

Good you got-er done!

Note: After you change out an Aux battery...a Main battery.... say in 3 or days and you see the JL running constant 14.0ish, and maybe you see an EVIC notice, it is indicative that when you fooled with the JL's battery(2) you inadvertently blew a fuse in the High Amp Fuse Array..

Also.... after you change-out battery(s) expect weird readouts until IBS has did it's relearn that takes a few days of your using/driving your JL.

Give your JL's IBS some time to learn. Don't just replace ..
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/ibs-clear-reset.67955/

Remember what I said about blowing the High Amp Fuse array fuse... as it happening is fairly common.
Read this terrific thread: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-cable-caution-and-ess-n3-fuse-warning.6624

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

I appreciate the heads up. I’ll actually test the block tomorrow. Looks like a new block is $53. Might be handy just to have on hand in case it just quits on me. (Or swap N3 with N4 to get home).


EDIT: you got me paranoid enough to check it now. I don’t want to get stranded or kill $400 in batteries. All fuses are good.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I appreciate the heads up. I’ll actually test the block tomorrow. Looks like a new block is $53. Might be handy just to have on hand in case it just quits on me. (Or swap N3 with N4 to get home).


EDIT: you got me paranoid enough to check it now. I don’t want to get stranded or kill $400 in batteries. All fuses are good.

Good to see a guy that is pro-active.... on top of things..

I keep a spare High Amp Fuse Array in the vehicle at all times.

I see you have a 68368853AA Mopar Z Case Fuse Array (has the 60 amp fan fuse).

JL's with the trailer package have /use a different array that has a 100 amp fan fuse.

Read here: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/alert-high-amp-fuse-array-related.65085/

After communicating with a few dealership techs and fellow JL owner's, it has become pretty apparent to me, that Stellanits had a problem sourcing fuse arrays for a while and they used 60 amp and not 100 amp on some vehicles leaving the factory that had the tow package and should have had the 100 amp fuse.

Suggest, if yours is one of those, buy a 100 amp, install it and keep the 60 for your spare.

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