Quad ARB Air Compressor System

[brewski]

Installed in the engine bay, passenger side on top. Had no problem for months, then couple months ago it started popping fuses.

The reason why I had suspected heat is because the fuses seem to blow at the flip of the switch, basically as soon as I get off the trail and open the hood and flip the switch ON.

I'd change them out and may have one or both pop again....after that I am able to air up without trouble.

I suspect that the fuses stop blowing for the reason that the hood is open long enough to make a difference in temperature

I am going to test that theory with a thermometer OR leaving the hood open for about 5 minutes before I flip the switch ON.

That pump gets as hot as the engine when running. While it could be heat I would be surprised.
My recommendation for things to check
- check ARB relays on the Air Compressor. You take off the black sheet metal shield and there is one for each pump. I can’t remember if you have to only remove the black cover or have to remove the pumps actual cover on the fan side.
- trace the ground and power line, as well as others and look for where wires could be rubbing and maybe are creating a short. Over a short time period vibration could wear thru wire jacket
- check your ground is tight and not loose
- check connectors to make sure they’re fully plugged in. Also give each wire going into a connector a light pull to make sure there isn’t a bad crimp on one creating a loose connection.

what you’ve said in this thread sounds like a short to me, not a heat issue. also ARB tech support is great. US support is in WA and they’re very good about helping diagnose problems. I don’t know where in WA you are but they’re in Auburn and before the pandemic you could go there and get help. Unsure on that stuff currently. ARB support: 425.264.1391

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[Go4Low]

"ARB tech support is great..."


I'll second that, GREAT! customer service too.

 

[JimLee]

That pump gets as hot as the engine when running. While it could be heat I would be surprised.
My recommendation for things to check
- check ARB relays on the Air Compressor. You take off the black sheet metal shield and there is one for each pump. I can’t remember if you have to only remove the black cover or have to remove the pumps actual cover on the fan side.
- trace the ground and power line, as well as others and look for where wires could be rubbing and maybe are creating a short. Over a short time period vibration could wear thru wire jacket
- check your ground is tight and not loose
- check connectors to make sure they’re fully plugged in. Also give each wire going into a connector a light pull to make sure there isn’t a bad crimp on one creating a loose connection.

what you’ve said in this thread sounds like a short to me, not a heat issue. also ARB tech support is great. US support is in WA and they’re very good about helping diagnose problems. I don’t know where in WA you are but they’re in Auburn and before the pandemic you could go there and get help. Unsure on that stuff currently. ARB support: 425.264.1391

Intermittent shorts in a scenario where everything is static are rare, usually something is either shorted or not shorted. I could see if it was popping fuses while he is moving, a worn wire intermittently rubbing up against something metal, but sitting still with the only variable being time in between popping fuses and not popping fuses. I'm not saying it's not possible and definitely warrants a look, but these compressors are known to have heat related issues when mounted in the engine bay depending on the climate. I know where I live mounting under the hood is just a no-go right out the gate, the people I know that have tried either ended up moving it or have constant problems in the summer. Not trying to start a pissing match, just give the OP more options to troubleshoot his problem.

 

[oceanblue2019]

Intermittent shorts in a scenario where everything is static are rare, usually something is either shorted or not shorted. I could see if it was popping fuses while he is moving, a worn wire intermittently rubbing up against something metal, but sitting still with the only variable being time in between popping fuses and not popping fuses. I'm not saying it's not possible and definitely warrants a look, but these compressors are known to have heat related issues when mounted in the engine bay depending on the climate. I know where I live mounting under the hood is just a no-go right out the gate, the people I know that have tried either ended up moving it or have constant problems in the summer. Not trying to start a pissing match, just give the OP more options to troubleshoot his problem.

I wheel with a group and all with it up under the hood or in the drivers fender near the cat location have experienced either slow filling or system shutdowns due to heat.

Of all the guys with it in the cabins there has been no issues; and much faster fills.

The best install from a speed perspective is under the passenger seat with the AC duct right into the fan inlet. Even in 100F temps no issue filling multiple jeeps back to back as HVAC is blowing 70F air into the compressors and keeping them cool.

 

[JimLee]

I wheel with a group and all with it up under the hood or in the drivers fender near the cat location have experienced either slow filling or system shutdowns due to heat.

Of all the guys with it in the cabins there has been no issues; and much faster fills.

The best install from a speed perspective is under the passenger seat with the AC duct right into the fan inlet. Even in 100F temps no issue filling multiple jeeps back to back as HVAC is blowing 70F air into the compressors and keeping them cool.

I have mine in the AAL rear tub mount, it gets hot but has never shut down on me yet, operating temps have dropped quite a bit since I got rid of that giant muffler right underneath the tub. I also gave my broke ass TJ owning buddy a Viair portable so I don't usually have to do multi fills anymore. I've considered a couple of holes in the rear deck with some small fans mounted in them but it doesn't look like it will be necessary. If I ever had to re-do it I would put it under the passenger seat, that definitely seems like the best place for temps.

 

[LooselyHeldPlans]

I have the dual but use my PowerTank as my primary. I installed the PowerTank valves, now that is fast!!!

Do those work with the pressure sensors?

 

[brewski]

Intermittent shorts in a scenario where everything is static are rare, usually something is either shorted or not shorted. I could see if it was popping fuses while he is moving, a worn wire intermittently rubbing up against something metal, but sitting still with the only variable being time in between popping fuses and not popping fuses. I'm not saying it's not possible and definitely warrants a look, but these compressors are known to have heat related issues when mounted in the engine bay depending on the climate. I know where I live mounting under the hood is just a no-go right out the gate, the people I know that have tried either ended up moving it or have constant problems in the summer. Not trying to start a pissing match, just give the OP more options to troubleshoot his problem.

the pumps can thermally shit down but that does not blow a fuse.
I had an ARB twin under the hood of my JK for 6yr and did a lot of desert trips in UT, SoCal and NV and never had an issue. I also live in the same state and climate as the OP.

when using the pump you have the engine running, that creates a vibration.

Lastly, it is quite common on vehicles to have intermediate issues with circuits if there is a loose connection and/or a compromised wire. I’ve had so many people try to tell me about how it can’t be a short because it’s sporadic only to find the short and show them the cut wire or slightly loose nut. Usually it’s a cable jacket that is cut. Now I’ve only seen this with aftermarket wiring, not OEM wiring which is very well captured and isolated from edges/sharps that could naw thru a cable jacket. But I’m not saying that it definitely has to be a short, it just sounds like it is a short

I’d agree with you on a sporadic short in a house and other such things that are not exposed to the vibrations vehicles live in.

 

[JL GOAT]

I have the single arb compressor as I was “never” going bigger than 33s. I would like to purchase a second single arb compressor and plumb the two singles together BUT, I do not know how to accomplish that and have been unable to find online. Help please, diagrams/video appreciated.

sorry if wrong thread….

 

[brewski]

I have the single arb compressor as I was “never” going bigger than 33s. I would like to purchase a second single arb compressor and plumb the two singles together BUT, I do not know how to accomplish that and have been unable to find online. Help please, diagrams/video appreciated.

sorry if wrong thread….

wrong thread but it is not too hard. The power to each pump would be their own separate lines and the relay and switch to activate could be shared. Depending on how you have this set up and would set each pump you might be able to do it super simply.

as far as plumbing the air, you just need a 3way or T connector to have both pumps go into 1 QR NPT fitting (which you should already have)

 

[JimLee]

the pumps can thermally shit down but that does not blow a fuse.
I had an ARB twin under the hood of my JK for 6yr and did a lot of desert trips in UT, SoCal and NV and never had an issue. I also live in the same state and climate as the OP.

when using the pump you have the engine running, that creates a vibration.

Lastly, it is quite common on vehicles to have intermediate issues with circuits if there is a loose connection and/or a compromised wire. I’ve had so many people try to tell me about how it can’t be a short because it’s sporadic only to find the short and show them the cut wire or slightly loose nut. Usually it’s a cable jacket that is cut. Now I’ve only seen this with aftermarket wiring, not OEM wiring which is very well captured and isolated from edges/sharps that could naw thru a cable jacket

I’d agree with you on a sporadic short in a house and other such things that are not exposed to the vibrations vehicles live in.

Yea, I could factually counterpoint every line of your post but as I said I'm not interested in an internet pissing match here. I'm simply trying to help the OP with his problem.

 

[Brew211]

Do those work with the pressure sensors?

These are new valves that you drill into your wheel. Extremely simple to do. Air down each tire 20psi in about 4 seconds. Air up in about 10-15 seconds.

 

[oceanblue2019]

I have mine in the AAL rear tub mount, it gets hot but has never shut down on me yet, operating temps have dropped quite a bit since I got rid of that giant muffler right underneath the tub. I also gave my broke ass TJ owning buddy a Viair portable so I don't usually have to do multi fills anymore. I've considered a couple of holes in the rear deck with some small fans mounted in them but it doesn't look like it will be necessary. If I ever had to re-do it I would put it under the passenger seat, that definitely seems like the best place for temps.

Yeah my tub is a ton cooler with the Borla climber exhaust as well.

I think the real issue is when it's pulling in elevated temps as compressing naturally rises it further and you get to critical situation. Do you have the remote filter mount by AAL as well?

 

[JimLee]

Yeah my tub is a ton cooler with the Borla climber exhaust as well.

I think the real issue is when it's pulling in elevated temps as compressing naturally rises it further and you get to critical situation. Do you have the remote filter mount by AAL as well?

Yup, what a PITA that was.

 

[Digger 5]

I've had blown fuses due to a bad connection at the battery. The connection to the battery was good but the connection from the battery to the cable was bad.
Low voltage batteries will also cause a spike in amperage which can blow a fuse. This is much more common now due to alternator technology. The alternators don't charge all the time anymore. They read the motor requirements and only charge when needed.

 

[brewski]

Yea, I could factually counterpoint every line of your post but as I said I'm not interested in an internet pissing match here. I'm simply trying to help the OP with his problem.

I am trying to help the OP. Did you just try to tell me that you can prove my experiences helping fix other peoples rigs and what the root cause of the failures were couldn't have happened? Because that would be pretty asinine for you to claim you know more about what I've experienced than I do.
By trying to discredit me and dismiss things I have seen multiple times, you are potentially hurting the OP by saying don't check any of that stuff, it can't be that.

Your advice was:

Heat, or undersized power wiring.

ARB twin has a thermal shut off if it gets hot enough, but that does not blow the fuses. OP has fuses blowing when he flips the switch on.
Undersized wiring could be an issue if the OP didn't use ARBs wiring harness, but in the engine bay their supplied wiring harness is long enough to not need extending.

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