PUP beats Amsoil again

[Tr4ckD4ys]

remember the good old days at the county fairs when they would drain the oil out of the briggs and straton lawn mower engine and run it tell it failed......that was a real test.....
just got three more jugs of PUP 0w20 delivered via amazon.... still waiting on the PUP 5w30 for my mazda to be delivered tho...seems like 5w30 PUP is in short supply...amazon keeps delaying the shipment and my walmart said not available as did O'rielys and napa said $65 a jug yikes.....

0W20 …. Ewww!

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[BDinTX]

It's not a drastic change in viscosity, so it likely wouldn't even be perceptible, but you are already running a much thicker oil than we have generally been discussing here, so I don't believe that you have issues with running beyond the hydrodynamic range and sheer of that oil in your engine. Can you do the RPM fan controller to increase fan speed sooner?

Yeah it's possible it wouldn't be perceptible. Last I saw the fan controller had not been tested with the diesels.

 

[jadmt]

0W20 …. Ewww!

I am in the run what the manufacturer recommends camp....been that way since the 70's and never once have i had an oil related issue....

 

[NWJeepr]

Any oil that can be purchased without having to join a cult and pay middlemen is high quality in my book.

I read other forums where Amsoil is religion and the cult descends on you whenever you doubt its greatness. And yet... people who change their oil on schedule and have Jiffy Lube do it seem to get 200k+ out of an engine just the same. Maybe it's not just about the sauce, but how you cook with it.

 

[Badunit]

Any oil that can be purchased without having to join a cult and pay middlemen is high quality in my book.

You can buy directly from Amsoil. No need to go through any middleman. You can pay a yearly fee ($20?) and you'll get discounted prices that far exceed that yearly fee. Buy enough at one time and you'll qualify for free shipping. I usually stock up on stuff I know I'll need soon because I can't pop down to the local store and pick up a few quarts when the time comes to do maintenance.

I don't know what it is about engine oil that makes people so crazy. Arguments over brand. Arguments over viscosity. Arguments over whether it makes any difference to engine life or is cost effective over the life of the engine to use expensive vs cheap oil. Never a concensus. Lots of illogical, false, and unsupported statements from all sides, stated as if they were God's own truth handed down from on high and etched into stone tablets. You cannot even post a "what if" question without stones getting thrown at you. So, use whatever oil you are happy with. Be prepared for a stoning if you post about it.

 

[NWJeepr]

You can buy directly from Amsoil. No need to go through any middleman. You can pay a yearly fee ($20?) and you'll get discounted prices that far exceed that yearly fee. Buy enough at one time and you'll qualify for free shipping. I usually stock up on stuff I know I'll need soon because I can't pop down to the local store and pick up a few quarts when the time comes to do maintenance.

I don't know what it is about engine oil that makes people so crazy. Arguments over brand. Arguments over viscosity. Arguments over whether it makes any difference to engine life or is cost effective over the life of the engine to use expensive vs cheap oil. Never a concensus. Lots of illogical, false, and unsupported statements from all sides, stated as if they were God's own truth handed down from on high and etched into stone tablets. You cannot even post a "what if" question without stones getting thrown at you. Do whatever you think is right. Be prepared for a stoning if you post about it.

So the cult has a club card and membership fee “for additional savings”

But I know what you mean. Everyone should do what they think is right for them and their machines.

 

[CarbonSteel]

My diesel is already running much hotter than I'd like. Texas summers give me 230 oil temps all day long and 239-241 on hills with a headwind... So I'm not going to push the limits of my cooling system and go to a 10w50. I just think it's fair to point out the tradeoff, there is no free lunch.

5W-40 would serve you well. My 6.7L Power stroke loved it.

 

[ASSFROW]

You can buy directly from Amsoil. No need to go through any middleman. You can pay a yearly fee ($20?) and you'll get discounted prices that far exceed that yearly fee. Buy enough at one time and you'll qualify for free shipping. I usually stock up on stuff I know I'll need soon because I can't pop down to the local store and pick up a few quarts when the time comes to do maintenance.

I don't know what it is about engine oil that makes people so crazy. Arguments over brand. Arguments over viscosity. Arguments over whether it makes any difference to engine life or is cost effective over the life of the engine to use expensive vs cheap oil. Never a concensus. Lots of illogical, false, and unsupported statements from all sides, stated as if they were God's own truth handed down from on high and etched into stone tablets. You cannot even post a "what if" question without stones getting thrown at you. So, use whatever oil you are happy with. Be prepared for a stoning if you post about it.

I will say that I agree that Amsoil is quality oil, but the chance that it might be better than PUP doesn't out way the additional cost or the convenience of driving down the street to WallyWorld to pick up oil and a filter. I prefer not to stockpile oil or filters, because I may not own the vehicle long enough to use it all.

 

[Pape]

Do we actually think the engine will fail sooner (due to miles/usage) using Amsoil versus Pennzoil? This is the question that should be asked and answered.

My opinion? There will be no discernible difference...

Hard to say, currently the only thing that come to mind are hearsay on that topic. Technically oil can affect significantly engine life. I would say for example the shell additive in gasoline case that ended up killing fuel system of certain car maker. Even if you fit the API requirement, does not stop the manufacturer putting in some unregulated additive.

But all in all you are probably right.

It is for testing the health of the oil and to a much lesser degree measuring wear. A UOA is to check fuel dilution, viscosity, additive pack health. oxidation, nitration, and the like. It is and never has been a "wear gauge".

Fleets use UOAs to see how far the oil can ran before it has to be changed thereby saving tens of thousands of dollars on maintenance. No fleet manager has ever said, oil "X" produces the least amount of wear...

UOA is a tool, maybe not the best for measuring accurate wear, but still can be use for this purpose to a certain degree. As I mentioned having some data is better than no data.

UOA can be a nice addition to magnetic oil plug and oil filter inspection to get a better picture of the wear. Would it be the ultimate wear measurement system, no, but get you some idea.

 

[GW’s JL]

This is one of many examples of why a UOA or VOA is the wrong tool to compare or rank oils.

In this case all metals are within a few ppm of each other except copper. Ester creates a reaction with copper. So oils with high ester like Redline, Amsoil SS, and HPL will show elevated copper which will eventually return to normal after a few oci’s. There is no ill effect to the engine and it’s not a wear metal in this case. Here is a paper by Mobil that explains it.

https://www.mobil.com/lubricants/-/media/global/technical-topic-copper-leaching.pdf

 

[CarbonSteel]

Hard to say, currently the only thing that come to mind are hearsay on that topic. Technically oil can affect significantly engine life. I would say for example the shell additive in gasoline case that ended up killing fuel system of certain car maker. Even if you fit the API requirement, does not stop the manufacturer putting in some unregulated additive.

But all in all you are probably right.


UOA is a tool, maybe not the best for measuring accurate wear, but still can be use for this purpose to a certain degree. As I mentioned having some data is better than no data.

UOA can be a nice addition to magnetic oil plug and oil filter inspection to get a better picture of the wear. Would it be the ultimate wear measurement system, no, but get you some idea.

Meh...how many parts per million of iron are there in an engine? Hint - it is more than a million.

How many are needed to begin to see wear that affects performance? Unknown and this is why a UOA is not a tool to measure wear.

But give it a go if it makes you happy.

 

[Badunit]

Meh...how many parts per million of iron are there in an engine? Hint - it is more than a million.

I must be missing something. 1 million parts per million is 1 million/1 million = 100%, right? How can it be "more than a million" parts per million, wouldn't that be more than 100%?

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