PLEASE HELP

[Mreese]

I’m a recently divorced female and have a 2019 Unlimited Sahara I bought brand new with 14 miles on it back in 2019 of course. 2 months ago at 47, 876 miles I started experiencing most of the problems listed in this thread with some exceptions. My Jeep always starts, the auto start stop has never stopped working, I lost power steering once, and the engine started jerking once. My biggest problem has been that all the warning lights come on and the wind shield wipers a couple of times but EVERY single time that happens if I pull over and put in park or if I start the car and it immediately does all that, I cannot get it out of park. I have one of those diagnostic plugin things that I‘ve had for a few years and most of the codes that came up were about certain things not responding or communicating correctly however P0562 came up most of the time as well. Last November I wasn’t having any problems but ran a diagnostic on it anyway and found I needed to get a new battery. I took it to a friend to make sure and he agreed so I started researching the best battery to get and learned about the AGM so thats what I got. I have no way to test the auxiliary battery separately with my diagnostic thing so I saved money for a couple of months and bought one. I was going to install it myself and chose to go about it by taking the tire off and fender liner Instead of getting to it from the top. Anyway, everything went very smoothly but I found I don’t have an auxiliary battery and it was obvious it never has had one because the inside of that case (?) was almost spotless and I live off dirt roads. When I googled that question I was told that it was because my 2.0-L L-4 DOHC 16V Turbo was an eTorque engine. For a while I could could run the diagnostic on it then clear the warning lights and everything went back to normal, then that stopped working, so I started disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes until that stopped working so I would do a hard reset over night and that would work for a couple of days. Y’all my warranty had already expired before all this and I finally saved up a couple of hundred bucks and took it the dealer today. I was hoping it was a ground wire or the PCM needed an update but they called and said that I needed a $400 dollar canbus system. Of all the things I’ve read that could be the problem I had never heard of this thing at all. I’ve got to call him tomorrow and let him know if he can order the parts or not. If you y’all think I should let them I’m going to have to keep riding the bus for a couple more months to save some more money but have no problem doing that. I just don’t know if I should do it or not. I read that most Jeep dealers don’t charge to do the PCM update and I don’t know if they do or not but I assume if that‘s true it can’t be to much of a big deal to go ahead and run it first. He also said that they checked all the ground wires and they were fine so they take to some Jeep people and they told them 9 times out to 10 the canbus was the problem. It just seems Ike they checked one thing out of the several I’ve read about and came up with this. If anyone can give me some advise I would greatly appreciate it and I apologize to everyone that this is such a long text.

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[m3reno]

From what I've read recently, the canbus is a 45 dollar item and is an easy fix. I would wait for someone else to chime in that is more experienced with this system. You may want to do a search and see if anything shows up.

 

[jaymz]

If this is what your problem is, you can fix it yourself in less than 15 minutes with no tools. It just snaps in behind the glove box and has a bunch of wires connected to it. They don’t even need to be plugged back in exactly the same spot that they were originally.

 

[Mreese]

From what I've read recently, the canbus is a 45 dollar item and is an easy fix. I would wait for someone else to chime in that is more experienced with this system. You may want to do a search and see if anything shows up.

Thank you for your quick response Sir.

 

[Mreese]

If this is what your problem is, you can fix it yourself in less than 15 minutes with no tools. It just snaps in behind the glove box and has a bunch of wires connected to it. They don’t even need to be plugged back in exactly the same spot that they were originally.

Thank you so much for your response!

 

[Heimkehr]

+1 to the CANBUS suggestion mentioned by @jaymz. It's an inexpensive way to determine if that particular component is faulty.

I purchased these spares precisely to have a DIY solution on hand, if or when similar electrical issues can't be definitively linked to the batteries nearing the end of their practical service life.

 

[VKSheridan]

Stop, stop, stop, for the love of all sacred STOP!

CANBUS is a network of wires connecting devices digitally. It’s a car version of your home network (LAN) that has devices all talking to each other through your router and over your WiFi and Cat-6 wires.

To say, “your CANBUS is bad” is the same as saying, “The internet is broke”.

You need to ask the Einstein that’s trying to sell you $400 worth of “auto network” to show you what specific component within the network is bad and demonstrate what tells him it’s bad.

Since CANBUS is a network used for inputs and outputs, your OBDC reader should be pitching a code that would indicate which device is not connected, shorted or failed. If the dealer can’t even tell you that, you’ve got a guy just tossing shit to the wall to see what sticks. Rant done, let’s get this solved:

P0562 means your Powertrain Control Module saw less than 10.0 volts for at least one minute. When a car has low voltage, it’s the equivalent to making a controller “drunk”. It doesn’t have enough voltage to make proper decisions so whatever decisions it does make aren’t usually the brightest. With low voltage, it’s extremely common to get communication error codes. In fact, it’s not uncommon for your electronic control modules to misinterpret commands and flash your lights, turn on wipers and basically make your dash look like a Christmas tree. When those additional electrical loads are added to an already low voltage situation, it self perpetuates. Damn them drunk bastards…..

When you disconnect the battery and de-energize the control modules, you stop the self-perpetuating cycle of low voltage insanity but you’re not fixing the thing that caused the low voltage in the first place. That’s why your roadside trick and hard resets aren’t working anymore. Yukky is getting yukkier.

First things first:

Take the lid off your fuse box and (firmly) push down every fuse and really you can touch. Jeep doesn’t install them tightly at the factory which all but encourages issues from normal vibration and corrosion. I don’t think that’s your issue but do it because it can become an issue down the road.

Next, (get a jumpstart if needed) and drive to an NAPA, AutoZone, O’Reily’s or any reputable auto parts store and ask them to load check your battery.

Have them remove the negative battery clamp from the battery to fully isolate the battery for the test.

If not, they’re likely to get misled by your E-Torque battery hidden out of their view.

If you’ve never changed the main battery, odds are significant you’re needing to. I honestly suspect that’s your issue but let’s “trust but verify”.

While you’re there, have them confirm your alternator output is sufficient as well as drive belt tension/condition.

If all that checks good proceed:

Down in that R/H wheel well where you were chasing the auxiliary battery, look to your left near the bottom of the firewall. You’ll have to pull the inner fender liner forward to see it but there should be a relatively large connector with something like 30 wires going through it clipped to the wall.

That connector feeds data to/from your PCM. Being right behind a friggin’ wheel, that connector is also susceptible to corrosion. In fact, it’s notorious for it. Disconnect it, inspect the pins and sockets for corrosion and clean em’ up. If you don’t have contact cleaner, perfume/cologne on a Q-Tip will work just as well. All we’re trying to do is get rid of any patina (oxidization) on the pins and seal them with patina of our own. Don’t laugh and no, I’m not making this shit up.

Now, if you’re hell bent on doing something/anything to the CANBUS, pop open your glovebox and remove it. Look down and you’ll see a white plastic bus (rectangular socket) that has multiple sets of twisted pair wires plugged into it. That Is your primary CANBUS junction. If you had accidentally dumped Pepsi on that piece of plastic and corroded the multiple wires being joined at that junction, you can clean it too with Old Spice, Chanel #7 or whatever perfume you have. If you don’t have perfume, regular ‘ol isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) will do. If you haven’t dumped “liquid corrosion” on that junction block, leave it the hell alone. It’s less likely to be the issue than the air pressure in your uncles spare tire on his Volvo.

If you get this far and can’t clear the code, please advise what battery voltage is being reported in your EVIC under these conditions:
A) Key on, engine off
B) Key on, engine on, low idle
C) Key on, engine on, 2,000 R.P.M.
D) Key on, engine off, headlights on

The reason I’m leaning hard to the battery is any code that pops up after P0562 is typically a result of the condition P0562 is reporting. Controllers designed to run on 12 Volts get awful stupid when they’re given 10 volts or less. You mentioned you could “fix it” by cycling power (disconnecting power electronically at first then mechanically at the battery clamps). By disconnecting, you removed ECM and any parasitic draw which would have allowed the battery to recover enough to be higher than 10 volts and kill the code. My hypothesis is it’s now to the point your battery is too degraded to recover anymore. Let us know what you find…

 

[Old Jeeper]

I’m a recently divorced female and have a 2019 Unlimited Sahara I bought brand new with 14 miles on it back in 2019 of course. 2 months ago at 47, 876 miles I started experiencing most of the problems listed in this thread with some exceptions. My Jeep always starts, the auto start stop has never stopped working, I lost power steering once, and the engine started jerking once. My biggest problem has been that all the warning lights come on and the wind shield wipers a couple of times but EVERY single time that happens if I pull over and put in park or if I start the car and it immediately does all that, I cannot get it out of park. I have one of those diagnostic plugin things that I‘ve had for a few years and most of the codes that came up were about certain things not responding or communicating correctly however P0562 came up most of the time as well. Last November I wasn’t having any problems but ran a diagnostic on it anyway and found I needed to get a new battery. I took it to a friend to make sure and he agreed so I started researching the best battery to get and learned about the AGM so thats what I got. I have no way to test the auxiliary battery separately with my diagnostic thing so I saved money for a couple of months and bought one. I was going to install it myself and chose to go about it by taking the tire off and fender liner Instead of getting to it from the top. Anyway, everything went very smoothly but I found I don’t have an auxiliary battery and it was obvious it never has had one because the inside of that case (?) was almost spotless and I live off dirt roads. When I googled that question I was told that it was because my 2.0-L L-4 DOHC 16V Turbo was an eTorque engine. For a while I could could run the diagnostic on it then clear the warning lights and everything went back to normal, then that stopped working, so I started disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes until that stopped working so I would do a hard reset over night and that would work for a couple of days. Y’all my warranty had already expired before all this and I finally saved up a couple of hundred bucks and took it the dealer today. I was hoping it was a ground wire or the PCM needed an update but they called and said that I needed a $400 dollar canbus system. Of all the things I’ve read that could be the problem I had never heard of this thing at all. I’ve got to call him tomorrow and let him know if he can order the parts or not. If you y’all think I should let them I’m going to have to keep riding the bus for a couple more months to save some more money but have no problem doing that. I just don’t know if I should do it or not. I read that most Jeep dealers don’t charge to do the PCM update and I don’t know if they do or not but I assume if that‘s true it can’t be to much of a big deal to go ahead and run it first. He also said that they checked all the ground wires and they were fine so they take to some Jeep people and they told them 9 times out to 10 the canbus was the problem. It just seems Ike they checked one thing out of the several I’ve read about and came up with this. If anyone can give me some advise I would greatly appreciate it and I apologize to everyone that this is such a long text.

What is is: Controller Area Network (CAN bus) bus transfers data between components inside a computer, and it comes in width, such as 16.32/64 bit and so on.

You have multiple modules that perform various functions from headlight to other components; There ar 4 types of buses: memory buses, system buses, front-side buses, or internal data bus

Basically its a traffic cop directing traffic in you Jeep..

They come in modules and I THINK? you can replace various modules or just go whole burger and the the universal set up and yes its about $400. Yes its plug in behind the dash and you can prob do it yourself??

https://www.amazon.com/2018-2020-Wr...MI8drdiomR_wIVHiezAB0Fiwo1EAQYASABEgIWXPD_BwE

If you Jeep to last forever, buy a TJ, the LAST of the REAL Jeep they lack the complexity of CANBUS and all the other BS that is it gets wet its dead!




In this case

 

[Deleted User 38384]

Something tells me it's the CANBUS...

I'd try one of these before you try anything else. https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-connector-can-buss-68230877aa

I'm at work and can't look them up, but I know they sell them cheaper elsewhere.

 

[CT_LFC]

I’m a recently divorced female and have a 2019 Unlimited Sahara I bought brand new with 14 miles on it back in 2019 of course. 2 months ago at 47, 876 miles

OEM or aftermarket?

 

[Bandit59]

I’m a recently divorced female and have a 2019 Unlimited Sahara I bought brand new with 14 miles on it back in 2019 of course. 2 months ago at 47, 876 miles I started experiencing most of the problems listed in this thread with some exceptions. My Jeep always starts, the auto start stop has never stopped working, I lost power steering once, and the engine started jerking once. My biggest problem has been that all the warning lights come on and the wind shield wipers a couple of times but EVERY single time that happens if I pull over and put in park or if I start the car and it immediately does all that, I cannot get it out of park. I have one of those diagnostic plugin things that I‘ve had for a few years and most of the codes that came up were about certain things not responding or communicating correctly however P0562 came up most of the time as well. Last November I wasn’t having any problems but ran a diagnostic on it anyway and found I needed to get a new battery. I took it to a friend to make sure and he agreed so I started researching the best battery to get and learned about the AGM so thats what I got. I have no way to test the auxiliary battery separately with my diagnostic thing so I saved money for a couple of months and bought one. I was going to install it myself and chose to go about it by taking the tire off and fender liner Instead of getting to it from the top. Anyway, everything went very smoothly but I found I don’t have an auxiliary battery and it was obvious it never has had one because the inside of that case (?) was almost spotless and I live off dirt roads. When I googled that question I was told that it was because my 2.0-L L-4 DOHC 16V Turbo was an eTorque engine. For a while I could could run the diagnostic on it then clear the warning lights and everything went back to normal, then that stopped working, so I started disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes until that stopped working so I would do a hard reset over night and that would work for a couple of days. Y’all my warranty had already expired before all this and I finally saved up a couple of hundred bucks and took it the dealer today. I was hoping it was a ground wire or the PCM needed an update but they called and said that I needed a $400 dollar canbus system. Of all the things I’ve read that could be the problem I had never heard of this thing at all. I’ve got to call him tomorrow and let him know if he can order the parts or not. If you y’all think I should let them I’m going to have to keep riding the bus for a couple more months to save some more money but have no problem doing that. I just don’t know if I should do it or not. I read that most Jeep dealers don’t charge to do the PCM update and I don’t know if they do or not but I assume if that‘s true it can’t be to much of a big deal to go ahead and run it first. He also said that they checked all the ground wires and they were fine so they take to some Jeep people and they told them 9 times out to 10 the canbus was the problem. It just seems Ike they checked one thing out of the several I’ve read about and came up with this. If anyone can give me some advise I would greatly appreciate it and I apologize to everyone that this is such a long text.

I do know when battery is not good things like this do happen. Get it checked

 

[Shibadog]

+1 on the batteries. Bad batteries cause weird stuff to happen. If the fuses are snug, batteries are the next most likely culprit, Unless you’ve had this puppy in deep water I’m betting fuse or battery issues are your problem

 

[SlickRickMotoADV]

Any news?

 

[kellywi]

I just went through this for 6 months replaced my canbus with one off ebay, takes about 5 mins and two screws and have had no issues since. You can take the glovebox off with a few clips and then unscrew the screw and replace this with a new canbus. Look on ebay for the below part #. I think I paid 11 bucks for two of them.

ETE 2-2272352-5

 

[kellywi]

Stop, stop, stop, for the love of all sacred STOP!

CANBUS is a network of wires connecting devices digitally. It’s a car version of your home network (LAN) that has devices all talking to each other through your router and over your WiFi and Cat-6 wires.

To say, “your CANBUS is bad” is the same as saying, “The internet is broke”.

You need to ask the Einstein that’s trying to sell you $400 worth of “auto network” to show you what specific component within the network is bad and demonstrate what tells him it’s bad.

Since CANBUS is a network used for inputs and outputs, your OBDC reader should be pitching a code that would indicate which device is not connected, shorted or failed. If the dealer can’t even tell you that, you’ve got a guy just tossing shit to the wall to see what sticks. Rant done, let’s get this solved:

P0562 means your Powertrain Control Module saw less than 10.0 volts for at least one minute. When a car has low voltage, it’s the equivalent to making a controller “drunk”. It doesn’t have enough voltage to make proper decisions so whatever decisions it does make aren’t usually the brightest. With low voltage, it’s extremely common to get communication error codes. In fact, it’s not uncommon for your electronic control modules to misinterpret commands and flash your lights, turn on wipers and basically make your dash look like a Christmas tree. When those additional electrical loads are added to an already low voltage situation, it self perpetuates. Damn them drunk bastards…..

When you disconnect the battery and de-energize the control modules, you stop the self-perpetuating cycle of low voltage insanity but you’re not fixing the thing that caused the low voltage in the first place. That’s why your roadside trick and hard resets aren’t working anymore. Yukky is getting yukkier.

First things first:

Take the lid off your fuse box and (firmly) push down every fuse and really you can touch. Jeep doesn’t install them tightly at the factory which all but encourages issues from normal vibration and corrosion. I don’t think that’s your issue but do it because it can become an issue down the road.

Next, (get a jumpstart if needed) and drive to an NAPA, AutoZone, O’Reily’s or any reputable auto parts store and ask them to load check your battery.

Have them remove the negative battery clamp from the battery to fully isolate the battery for the test.

If not, they’re likely to get misled by your E-Torque battery hidden out of their view.

If you’ve never changed the main battery, odds are significant you’re needing to. I honestly suspect that’s your issue but let’s “trust but verify”.

While you’re there, have them confirm your alternator output is sufficient as well as drive belt tension/condition.

If all that checks good proceed:

Down in that R/H wheel well where you were chasing the auxiliary battery, look to your left near the bottom of the firewall. You’ll have to pull the inner fender liner forward to see it but there should be a relatively large connector with something like 30 wires going through it clipped to the wall.

That connector feeds data to/from your PCM. Being right behind a friggin’ wheel, that connector is also susceptible to corrosion. In fact, it’s notorious for it. Disconnect it, inspect the pins and sockets for corrosion and clean em’ up. If you don’t have contact cleaner, perfume/cologne on a Q-Tip will work just as well. All we’re trying to do is get rid of any patina (oxidization) on the pins and seal them with patina of our own. Don’t laugh and no, I’m not making this shit up.

Now, if you’re hell bent on doing something/anything to the CANBUS, pop open your glovebox and remove it. Look down and you’ll see a white plastic bus (rectangular socket) that has multiple sets of twisted pair wires plugged into it. That Is your primary CANBUS junction. If you had accidentally dumped Pepsi on that piece of plastic and corroded the multiple wires being joined at that junction, you can clean it too with Old Spice, Chanel #7 or whatever perfume you have. If you don’t have perfume, regular ‘ol isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) will do. If you haven’t dumped “liquid corrosion” on that junction block, leave it the hell alone. It’s less likely to be the issue than the air pressure in your uncles spare tire on his Volvo.

If you get this far and can’t clear the code, please advise what battery voltage is being reported in your EVIC under these conditions:
A) Key on, engine off
B) Key on, engine on, low idle
C) Key on, engine on, 2,000 R.P.M.
D) Key on, engine off, headlights on

The reason I’m leaning hard to the battery is any code that pops up after P0562 is typically a result of the condition P0562 is reporting. Controllers designed to run on 12 Volts get awful stupid when they’re given 10 volts or less. You mentioned you could “fix it” by cycling power (disconnecting power electronically at first then mechanically at the battery clamps). By disconnecting, you removed ECM and any parasitic draw which would have allowed the battery to recover enough to be higher than 10 volts and kill the code. My hypothesis is it’s now to the point your battery is too degraded to recover anymore. Let us know what you find…

Hate to tell you this but For me this was 100% wrong, replaced the canbus box behind the glovebox and all my problems stopped. The old one looked to have residue in it left over from a bad solder job. been a few weeks and zero issues.

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