Passenger spring and perch notch gap

[entropy]

While I was installing disconnects I noticed a small gap between my passenger rubi spring and perch's notch. Is this an issue? I figured I need to rotate the spring the get to touch the notch, is there an easy way to do this? or do I have to do the whole drop axle thing to be able to rotate it.

Other than the gap there is no spring bending or deformation, also seems to be sitting right and seems to be well positioned at the top.

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[limeade]

I guess if there's no ill effects, then you could just leave it. But to rotate the spring to have the end butted against the spring pad you can do the following:

Disconnect the sway bar and raise the frame (side you need to adjust) so you can get as much droop from the axle end as possible. Place a jack stand under the frame and use a floor jack under the end of the axle so you can manipulate the height of the axle. Be careful to not overextend brake lines, abs line, and any wiring harnesses as you lower the jack to get the axle to droop. Hopefully that relaxes the spring enough for you to grab it and rotate it. If that doesn't work, then you might have to disconnect the lower shock mount and/or one end of the lower control arm. Disconnecting both the shock and LCA should definitely allow for enough droop to relax the spring.

Another trick you can use if you can't get enough droop is to let the side you're working on to hang down without a jack stand or jack supporting it (again, making sure any lines/wires aren't overextended and having the frame supported with jack stands) and use a floor jack under the opposite end of the axle and jack that side up. That will normally create a little more droop and freedom to work on the spring. I use this procedure when installing springs so I don't have to use a potentially dangerous spring compressor tool.

 

[entropy]

I guess if there's no ill effects, then you could just leave it. But to rotate the spring to have the end butted against the spring pad you can do the following:

Disconnect the sway bar and raise the frame (side you need to adjust) so you can get as much droop from the axle end as possible. Place a jack stand under the frame and use a floor jack under the end of the axle so you can manipulate the height of the axle. Be careful to not overextend brake lines, abs line, and any wiring harnesses as you lower the jack to get the axle to droop. Hopefully that relaxes the spring enough for you to grab it and rotate it. If that doesn't work, then you might have to disconnect the lower shock mount and/or one end of the lower control arm. Disconnecting both the shock and LCA should definitely allow for enough droop to relax the spring.

Another trick you can use if you can't get enough droop is to let the side you're working on to hang down without a jack stand or jack supporting it (again, making sure any lines/wires aren't overextended and having the frame supported with jack stands) and use a floor jack under the opposite end of the axle and jack that side up. That will normally create a little more droop and freedom to work on the spring. I use this procedure when installing springs so I don't have to use a potentially dangerous spring compressor tool.

Thanks. I think I am gonna leave it like this for a while since it seems to be fine. Ill rotate the spring in a month or two. I have just done so much work on this jeep the past 3 weeks I am tired lol. Might ask a shop to do it, hopefully they can do this for next to nothing since doing this on a lift would be a piece of cake.

 

[mwilk012]

Thanks. I think I am gonna leave it like this for a while since it seems to be fine. Ill rotate the spring in a month or two. I have just done so much work on this jeep the past 3 weeks I am tired lol. Might ask a shop to do it, hopefully they can do this for next to nothing since doing this on a lift would be a piece of cake.

It's not too bad, but you're looking at a hundred dollars at least.

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