Oil consumption 3.6l v6

JJMalone

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Every engine should burn a little oil. The valve guides need a little oil. The only exit for this oil to the guides is into the combustion chamber for intakes and out the exhaust for exhaust vlvs. Granted, not much but any oil the guides get is burned and if they get none they will gall and stick. The cyl walls need enough to create an oil wedge to prevent metal to metal, a minute amount is lost there also.
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blnewt

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I am at 20158 miles on my 3.6, it doesn't and hasn't burned any oil since new. I change my oil every 5k. I pour my used oil back in the same jug it came out of, 5 out and 5 in every time. I'd freak out if only 3.5 came out.
I'm almost to that same mileage, and same results that you're seeing. Just checked oil level this AM after a 2000 mile road trip (and 5k miles since last change) and oil level still at the top of the hatch marks on the stick :)
 

MattLaurence

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Having a similar issue with my 2019 JLUS 4door, manual transmission. I have about 56,000 miles on it.

Last oil change was about 8,000 miles ago; I normally change every 5,000 but decided to go by the oil life range on the dash cluster. By that reading, 8,000 miles still showed I had 11% left, but I went ahead and changed it anyway.

Drained the pan, and only had 4 quarts in there. Oil level on dipstick read just above the low mark at last check a couple weeks back.

I was concerned, but then remembered those last 8 000 miles have 3,000 or so while towing a camper. When I'm towing the camper (about 2,200 lbs), I'm mostly in 4th gear on the highway doing 65, as 5th and 6th are basically overdrive gears and have a noticeable dip in throttle response (meaning almost no response lol).
With that in mind, I'm not too concerned as I feel this could be normal consumption while towing, hard driving, etc.

I'll be keeping a closer eye on this though
 

DanW

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Having a similar issue with my 2019 JLUS 4door, manual transmission. I have about 56,000 miles on it.

Last oil change was about 8,000 miles ago; I normally change every 5,000 but decided to go by the oil life range on the dash cluster. By that reading, 8,000 miles still showed I had 11% left, but I went ahead and changed it anyway.

Drained the pan, and only had 4 quarts in there. Oil level on dipstick read just above the low mark at last check a couple weeks back.

I was concerned, but then remembered those last 8 000 miles have 3,000 or so while towing a camper. When I'm towing the camper (about 2,200 lbs), I'm mostly in 4th gear on the highway doing 65, as 5th and 6th are basically overdrive gears and have a noticeable dip in throttle response (meaning almost no response lol).
With that in mind, I'm not too concerned as I feel this could be normal consumption while towing, hard driving, etc.

I'll be keeping a closer eye on this though
Remember, it only holds 5 quarts, so you were still at 80%. And the engine is certified to perform at 100% with 1 quart low. So just take oil with you. Mine doesn't use any but I always have a quart with me, just in case. And unless i'm going to Moab or somewhere with extreme off-roading, I'll put about a cup extra in there. They are also certified to perform at 100% with 1 quart over full, but won't like extreme angles with that load.

Good thing they design them that way, with all the folks who have had their dealers mistakenly put 6 quarts in them!

Btw, that info on low/high fill is straight from one of the designers of the Pentastar. Not some internet BS. All FCA engines have that 1 quart safety margin, both ways. It is a corporate design requirement and has been for years. He did say you don't want to go an ounce over a quart overfilled, though. If you were lower than 4 quarts, you probably are fine, if you didn't go too far. These new 0w20 full synthetic oils are outstanding, so they can take a lot of stress.
 

blnewt

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Remember, it only holds 5 quarts, so you were still at 80%. And the engine is certified to perform at 100% with 1 quart low. So just take oil with you. Mine doesn't use any but I always have a quart with me, just in case. And unless i'm going to Moab or somewhere with extreme off-roading, I'll put about a cup extra in there. They are also certified to perform at 100% with 1 quart over full, but won't like extreme angles with that load.

Good thing they design them that way, with all the folks who have had their dealers mistakenly put 6 quarts in them!

Btw, that info on low/high fill is straight from one of the designers of the Pentastar. Not some internet BS. All FCA engines have that 1 quart safety margin, both ways. It is a corporate design requirement and has been for years. He did say you don't want to go an ounce over a quart overfilled, though. If you were lower than 4 quarts, you probably are fine, if you didn't go too far. These new 0w20 full synthetic oils are outstanding, so they can take a lot of stress.
Like I posted many months ago, there should be a folder on this site titled "Dan The Oil Guy" w/ running oil-related threads, would be a must read!
 

Dan M.

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This might be why so may dealerships but 6 quarts of oil in instead of 5 when doing oil changes. :)
 

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Like I posted many months ago, there should be a folder on this site titled "Dan The Oil Guy" w/ running oil-related threads, would be a must read!
Lol, I just repeat what I learn from others, except that which I learned by my own dumb mistakes!

It is good to have a buddy who designed that 3.6. He cuts throught the BS and never tires of questions about it. He loves the engine!
 

BlackGenesis

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Change to different brand, had issues in my other cars with Mobil 1 disappearing. I switched to Quaker State and it folds always full and is considerably better in ware protection according to mine and independent oil analysis/test.

Try QS or Amsoil.
 

intentsrig

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Figured I would add a data point and say I burn no noticeable amount of oil at 30k miles.

Now the 3.8 I had in my JK was a different story...lol
 

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Change to different brand, had issues in my other cars with Mobil 1 disappearing. I switched to Quaker State and it folds always full and is considerably better in ware protection according to mine and independent oil analysis/test.

Try QS or Amsoil.
Ok.

I wouldn't get my hopes up on changing brands making any difference, but there's nothing to lose in trying. If it did, I'd bet money that a lower Noack number would prevail. Good luck finding an oil with lower Noack than M1 EP, or even AFE, for that matter. Particularly an oil with a majority group III base stock.

But hey, everyone should run what gives them confidence. All the 0w20 oils are very good these days, including Walmart Supertech full synthetic.
 

BlackGenesis

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Ok.

I wouldn't get my hopes up on changing brands making any difference, but there's nothing to lose in trying. If it did, I'd bet money that a lower Noack number would prevail. Good luck finding an oil with lower Noack than M1 EP, or even AFE, for that matter. Particularly an oil with a majority group III base stock.

But hey, everyone should run what gives them confidence. All the 0w20 oils are very good these days, including Walmart Supertech full synthetic.
Additives in the oil play biggest role.
M1 0w20 European is far superior to regular synthetic M1 0w20.
 

DanW

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Additives in the oil play biggest role.
M1 0w20 European is far superior to regular synthetic M1 0w20.
That'd be nice if there were a regular M1 0w20 in existence. But there's not. And regular M1's have a high percentage of group III, just like QS, but still at least a small percentage of PAO. So probably the closest to that would be Truck and SUV. Not sure of its base stock make-up. Next would be AFE, which is at least 40% PAO base. EP is at least 70%. And the base stock DOES make a huge difference, particularly in cold flow and tolerance of high heat. There is simply no group III that can compete on either end of the scale. Pennsoil's Gas to Liquid (GTL) comes closest, but even it doesn't quite get there. Group III's and even GTL will gel up or burst into flames at the extremes sooner than a PAO base. The additives that are on top of the base, are not all that different among the major brands of premium oils, except when they are required to make up for shortcomings in the base, which all bases, even PAO, do have in particular areas. But group III typically needs more help, particularly in the form of viscosity improvers.

Besides that, what exactly is in M1 Euro 0w20 that makes it better?

That's all complicated stuff. But at the end of the day, there's no major brand of synthetic oil with SAE SN+ or SP certification that can't work very well in this 3.6 and get it to 300,000 miles or more if cared for properly and not abused. This engine does not put oil to the test like a DI turbo engine does. It's an easy ride for an oil. That's why I don't think a brand change will make a difference. But again, it can't do any harm, either, so why not?

But one word of caution. Running a Euro spec oil in your 3.6 might void the warranty in some situations because it does not have the appropriate API certification. Would it hurt the engine? No way.
 
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Rodeoflyer

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There's another .5 quart in the motor after a drain so you were only a quart low. I wouldn't be 'that' concerned with a quart low after that many miles. I'm of the 'opinion' that the PCV system on these motors isn't the best and oil is consumed through it. I can drain a 1/4 cup out of my catch can every 2k miles.

I've only done 3 changes on my jeep but a 5qt change goes from a bit above the full line on the dipstick to close to the low mark at 7500mi changes (or whatever the oil life indicator shows)
 
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If anyone is still following - dealer said normal consumption is about 1qt every 3000 miles, so 1.5qts burned in 5k miles is about normal. Told me to keep changing at 5k and to monitor dipstick and top off if necessary but if it gets any lower than that i’d bring it in.

guess i need to stop flooring it haha
 
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