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Officially done.

Howardlv22

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Mudduck

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Pictures or its BS, next to the 911s and give me the finger. Its the internet, anyone can say or be anything. I'm actually Slovakiansplugebubblinwienernosedwatermelonfartmidgetwoman.
………. Like I said.
 

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This may be somewhat of a game changer.
Better get in quick as i read somewhere yesterday that it is only available for 90 days. How true that is, i dont know. I hope this helps you stay with us Jeepers :).
 
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OP
Jeep&dogs

Jeep&dogs

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I actually found this in a different group. The poster had a similar issue and was also running the Clayton arms. Apparently the outer part of the lower control arm bushing had cracked. The inner portion of the bushing was able to move and you couldn’t see it. I might have to actually pull the arms off again and take a look to see if they are cracked internally.

Jeep Wrangler JL Officially done. 70CD82A9-4575-4294-9871-2C67EF4B7368


Jeep Wrangler JL Officially done. 0BDBF1B2-C3F4-45F7-A887-B28BBE72F908
 

Howardlv22

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I actually found this in a different group. The poster had a similar issue and was also running the Clayton arms. Apparently the outer part of the lower control arm bushing had cracked. The inner portion of the bushing was able to move and you couldn’t see it. I might have to actually pull the arms off again and take a look to see if they are cracked internally.

70CD82A9-4575-4294-9871-2C67EF4B7368.jpeg


0BDBF1B2-C3F4-45F7-A887-B28BBE72F908.jpeg
The plot of the DW thickens ? Does the OP sell?… or not… shocking new details
 

Beachcomber72

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So…. I may be lost a little on this whole crazy thread but he is or is not officially done?

I’m just looking for some clarity, which I believe none of us are truly getting from this fiasco.

and in response to the photo of the supposed internally cracked lower control arm bushing, we’ll it’s not internally cracked and only thing wrong is the side space shim/washer thats used to fill the gap inside the control arm bracket because someone obviously designed their stuff wrong. And two, regardless if that washer/shim is broken the way it’s pictured if it was torqued properly it wouldn’t matter. That is not causing any death wobble.
 

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J0E

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Well after 2 years of fighting with this thing, 1/2 a dozen gear boxes, track bars, stabilizers, tires,wheels, control arms. I’m done fighting it. Yesterday doing 70 on the expressway I hit a small bump, Jeep literally went across 3 lanes of rush hour traffic, over the curb and into the grass shoulder.

I hate to say it but there will be a new Bronco sitting in my garage before long.
I gotta ask, do you wheel?

Why are you driving a lifted Jeep 70 on the freeway. I take my vett on the freeway, it's not lifted.

A few of you should go back and read some old posts. I have probably built more high end Jeeps and drag cars than most of the people on here combined. I have literally cut Jl’s in half and rebuilt them from the ground up. Not to mention 4000+ HP twin turbo drag week cars from a pile of tube and carbon fiber. I didn’t just throw parts at the thing. I have been in this thing as far as measuring the exact over center adjustments on the gear box, most of the smart asses don’t even have a clue what an over center adjustment is let alone how to measure it. I have been on the phone with engineers form Stellentis for hours discussing this thing, they have sent me multiple gear boxes to try out. Anyone else have a direct contact with the steering and suspension engineers from Stellantis? I had three of the latest design gear boxes sitting in my shop to test before they were available. I picked which one I wanted and sent the others back.
Build drag cars and you drive a lifted JLUR on the freeway?

Just an FYI, the Jeep has all Clayton suspension, 2.5 ton steering, Dynatrac ball joints, Reid racing steering knuckles, Fox ATS dampener, Fox DSC racing shocks all tuned by Accutune for the the corner weight of the Jeep. Steersmarts brace, ApEX steering boost system. Welded and trussed axles, trussed axle c’s.

The PSC system is way too over driven and there is zero road feel to it, with a 35” tire there is absolutely no reason to have a hydro system. If you have ever actually seen the frames on these Jl’s and how they flex near the steering box I would guarantee that is the cause of the the problem on these things.
The Rubicons are awesome off road, not so great on the freeway. Sounds like your priority is not off road capability, but freeway capability. Ruby is a poor choice there.

I think the DW is part of life with solid front axle vehicle. My 2018 F250 had this issue, so does my 2021 F350 Dually. Have less than 5k miles on Dually and it happened a few times. Ford offers a life long stabilizer replacement but won’t fix it. Just part of life. That being said, have not experienced this on my JLUS yet.
Op responds

Respectfully have to disagree. I've had a couple of CJ-7's, an '85 GMC, a '22 F350 (12k miles), and my '22 JL Willys. Never once experienced death wobble or anything close.
Op is a genus but doesn't know what an anecdote is. That OP's entire problem. He's generalizing from his first false premise, his lifted + 35's JLUR has DW -> all JL's are DW defective and he's leaving for a Bronco. OP's has owned a few non Jeep solid axles that didn't have DW, therefore, solid axles don't have DW.

Not all JL's experience DW, not all solid axles do either. Experienced it a few times in my F-250's but didn't rush to trade it for another brand. I slowed down on the interstate and drove my vett.

Keep all the factory parts from upgrades as well.. so you can swap those back on... I know death wobble from every solid front axle vehicle I've ever owned over 30 years.

They keep saying it's resolved but its never been resolved.

I had a CJ back in 85 same thing, it's not resolved.
Yup, the price you pay for a straight axle.

You seem a little more understanding of analysis than most. There are actually formulas the OE’s use in computer simulators that help them determine the “right combination” to avoid the harmonics. Here is a link that gets deeper into the science behind it. https://vehiclephysics.com/advanced/how-suspensions-work/#studying-the-oscillating-behavior this has more to do with spring rate but the same principle applies.
Does the OE's PDE solvers account for lift + 35's?

Put ton's on your DD and 40. I guarantee that will solve your DW. I simulated it with my Harmonic PDE solver software and in low range, no DW.

it is absolutely true. Where would you like to start ? Design parameters or mechanical construction methodology? Cheapest fit and finish? That is utter nonsense. Do you own either? You say “driven” what in the world full sized Bronco did you

Fair question. I own both. A 2019 Sahara with mods including in-house designed steering geometry corrections. This includes a full finite element analysis model of the Sahara front end. We needed to develop that model to understand what was wrong and the execute a solution. Actually it was 3 attempts, the first two we had wrong. I am a professional engineer a Mechanical Engineer if that matters. My other degree is an MBA, from UCLA. I own the firm. Im ancient and nearly fossilized at 61. I also own a 21 Bronco / BL/ Sasquatch. I have built 2 Factory Five Cobras and one SF cobra. We race a bit. Generally one of 2 Porsche 911’s. One vintage S 2.9 and a later 3.2L 991.2. I think I understand suspension pretty well. Not the worlds expert, but we get the math and have a full fabrication facility including CNC (HAAS VF1) a big ass mandrel bender, an Omax 144x72 waterjet and full tig/mig welding suites. There is also full cad/cam Solid and Edge Works as well as Vector-cam in the shop. Other than the GT, I have personally owned every SVT/SVO vehicle that Ford has produced. I would love a GT. THE 250k sticker is a bit much. My kids kart driving instructor Joey Hand took one to the winners circle at leMons. I had hoped knowing him mighta got me a deal. No dice. You asked. So how about you? What’s your data, experience and qualifications?
My finite element analysis software shows tons + 40's will cure his DW in low range. It's still running for 70 MPH. Can you run it on yours to confirm OP shouldn't switch to Bronco?

It 100% would have but I wanted the Orange and it was discontinued 2 weeks after I order it. If it was still available I would 100% have swapped it out.
Orange is the #1 feature of your JEEP?



This may be somewhat of a game changer.
Orange is the winner. Perhaps orange is causing the DW? Not one mention of off road capability but lots of kudo's for orange.

Same certified tech has replaced the tires three times since, pulled all the Jeep apart 3-4 times and still there. What’s your point? Keep reading, you will see all the other things that were done to the Jeep. All the times it was back at Jeep, all the gear box swaps, and a few 100 other things that were done to isolate it or eliminate it. I’m pretty sure there is even a picture in one of the posts of the 3 gear boxes getting bench tested.
The same wheels/tires generate the same harmonics. Try tons and 40's.

well my point is trying to figure out what you messed up on with your jeep, if you damaged tires/rims out off roading, then i been thinking if maybe you messed up your control arm mounts.
and i seen you have trussed axles.
so maybe they were welded off set or you may have bent a axle and welded it bent.
we already talked about your frame being straight... so process of elimination.
you can be upset all you want at some of us that are commenting, heck i find it silly you did not take a buyback just because they didnt have your color.
That was my first thought. Why truss a DD that's rarely driven off road?

That's a question only you can answer, I'm afraid. But I can say that the number of folks around here with perfectly functioning Jeeps suggests that the problem you've had is not necessarily systemic. I don't think it's a fait accompli that you'll have the same problem with a new Jeep if a new Jeep is what you truly want. And the fact that you're still here suggests that you do.
Wait a minute. What about the guy that had two 2.0T engines blow, low miles. Doesn't that prove all 2.0T are bad. Mine is a ticking time bomb. I'd be frustrated too and PO'd at Jeep as I picked up my new JLUR and started modifying it. What alternative do I have, I'm addicted to climbing.
 
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Mudduck

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JUST STOP IT! ??⚰
I would love to, but I don't recall where it all started exactly. I fell 42-foot, coma for 6 weeks, woke up speaking Alien, common sense gone, and I love pot ever since. definitely a sideshow unto myself.
 

Howardlv22

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I would love to, but I don't recall where it all started exactly. I fell 42-foot, coma for 6 weeks, woke up speaking Alien, common sense gone, and I love pot ever since. definitely a sideshow unto myself.
I didn’t have to fall and go into a coma to like pot…
 

Hucke_250

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I actually found this in a different group. The poster had a similar issue and was also running the Clayton arms. Apparently the outer part of the lower control arm bushing had cracked. The inner portion of the bushing was able to move and you couldn’t see it. I might have to actually pull the arms off again and take a look to see if they are cracked internally.

70CD82A9-4575-4294-9871-2C67EF4B7368.jpeg


0BDBF1B2-C3F4-45F7-A887-B28BBE72F908.jpeg
Post #47 of this thread https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/bad-idea-…-opinions.101746/page-4 he found a torn bushing on the upper Clayton track bar
 

TaiMc

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I would love to, but I don't recall where it all started exactly. I fell 42-foot, coma for 6 weeks, woke up speaking Alien, common sense gone, and I love pot ever since. definitely a sideshow unto myself.
well, we are glad you are here to type about it! ???
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