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New Jeep! Questionable Suspension?

The Last Cowboy

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Just looking at the pics, those are tall spacers. Even with the shock extentions, the shocks look bottomed out. The right front spring my be upside down, as the tags are usually at the top. The salesman likely had a nice lift that he swapped over to his next Jeep and had someone throw the spacer kit in the one you bought.

The Willys comes with Rubicon shocks and Sport springs, as stated above. You can return it to stock, although the springs and shocks may not be stock suspension parts that came with your Jeep.

My guess is that they are Rubicon springs with 2” spacers and that’s why your shocks are close to bottomed out. It probably sits like a Jeep with a 3 1/2” lift. Do the 35s look smallish on it? To confirm, get the numbers off of the springs.

If you have Rubicon springs, you will want to go down to 1/2 or 3/4 max spacers and new lower control arms. Or you could get a new lift kit and be done with trying to fix that mess.
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Jesster58

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Just looking at the pics, those are tall spacers. Even with the shock extentions, the shocks look bottomed out. The right front spring my be upside down, as the tags are usually at the top. The salesman likely had a nice lift that he swapped over to his next Jeep and had someone throw the spacer kit in the one you bought.

The Willys comes with Rubicon shocks and Sport springs, as stated above. You can return it to stock, although the springs and shocks may not be stock suspension parts that came with your Jeep.

My guess is that they are Rubicon springs with 2” spacers and that’s why your shocks are close to bottomed out. It probably sits like a Jeep with a 3 1/2” lift. Do the 35s look smallish on it? To confirm, get the numbers off of the springs.

If you have Rubicon springs, you will want to go down to 1/2 or 3/4 max spacers and new lower control arms. Or you could get a new lift kit and be done with trying to fix that mess.
I think the best solution for my use case here is to get a new set of control arms, and some new springs. I am doubtful anything was switched out, as it rode harsh when I was test driving it too, and was able to make an educated guess on the suspension setup. I appreciate all the input here. Since I would be getting new springs, any recommendations for a replacement that sits only slightly higher than rubicon ones?
 

The Last Cowboy

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LazyJL

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There’s the expert! I didn’t even think of that.
Compression rates, weight, dampening/valving all don’t take geometry into account.
The longer Mopar lower control arms are inexpensive and the added caster will help stabilize the steering a lot on a lifted jeep.
I find the Rubicon shocks to be hard and harsh, both of our Rubicon rear shocks starting leaking at less than 4000 miles, obviously a high-quality shock and another trip to the dealer.

I can't wait to get a plusher riding shock, the stock Rubicon's shocks are beating this old guy's back too much. I got used to my 2001 XJ's Bilstein 5160s smooth street ride and great offroad ability, now I need to save up for better shocks for the JL.
For as much as this Jeep cost, it's a shame to have to spend so much to make it what it should've been from the Factory.
I hope the Bronco lights a fire under FCA to improve its product. This isn't rocket science.
 

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Since I would be getting new springs, any recommendations for a replacement that sits only slightly higher than rubicon ones?
I had a Willys with Sport springs and Rubicon shocks. I changed to Rubicon springs. It definitely gained me some height, but it didn't ride that well. I ultimately went with the TeraFlex 2.50" base spring lift with the cheap VSS shocks. How much height did I really get? Meh. I didn't do the before and after measurements, and can't really say. Maybe more than 2.5", but not enough to make the Jeep feel like the driveline was all out of whack due to bad angles. The new spring/shock/tire combo is honestly a little more squirrely on the highway. I have to slow down for curves I used to take full throttle.

Where the difference really shows is on the trail. It rides soooo much better on the trail. Even with the crappy cheap VSS shocks, because I couldn't afford $15,000 extra for the good ones. Or maybe it was only $3,000, but whatever. It was way out of budget.

I also had spacers with my Rubicon takeoff lift, to try to compensate for my extra heavy front end with a steel bumper and winch. I deleted the spacers, and I'm riding entirely on springs and shocks now. Plus bump stop extensions, and I added the progressive bump stop bumper doodads, so slamming into a rut is less harsh.

I mean sure, if you have $232,657 to spare to get a good lift kit and good shocks, knock yourself out, but this deal was about $900, and it made a lot of difference over stock + Rubicon takeoffs. I kept the longer LCAs from the Mopar 2.0" lift, and while I never bothered to measure my caster before and after, my steering is perfectly satisfactory now.
 

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If you want to keep the lift, or use a different lift, yet get the on road handling closer to stock, you could look in to a set of geometry correction brackets.

they will flatten out the control arms which will soften up the front on bumps / imperfections. They will also correct the caster which will help.
 

Zandcwhite

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If you want to keep the lift, or use a different lift, yet get the on road handling closer to stock, you could look in to a set of geometry correction brackets.

they will flatten out the control arms which will soften up the front on bumps / imperfections. They will also correct the caster which will help.
Not a fan of bolting low hanging brackets to the bottom of the jeep. As is, the control arm brackets are the first thing we seem to bang on rocks with 3" of lift and 37's. Longer lca's, preferably adjustable, are a much better option for a Jeep that sees anything more difficult than dirt roads in my opinion. The caster is marginal on a stock Rubicon, so something to correct that with any height will definitely improve the ride and driveability. Load Range D mt's will never ride as smooth as the lt's on a stock sport, but with the right shocks and caster can ride very well on the street.
 

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Not a fan of bolting low hanging brackets to the bottom of the jeep. As is, the control arm brackets are the first thing we seem to bang on rocks with 3" of lift and 37's. Longer lca's, preferably adjustable, are a much better option for a Jeep that sees anything more difficult than dirt roads in my opinion. The caster is marginal on a stock Rubicon, so something to correct that with any height will definitely improve the ride and driveability. Load Range D mt's will never ride as smooth as the lt's on a stock sport, but with the right shocks and caster can ride very well on the street.
If the OP’s intention is to do serious trails, i agree completely. My point was related to road handling. The adjustable control arms will not be as smooth a ride as the brackets, since the adjustable arms simply give you back caster, and if using both sets, also allow you to recenter the axle. (You mentioned the downside about potentially hitting the brackets off-road, i would also say the other issue is that the brackets will give you a static caster setting.).

If it will be mostly a daily driver with just light off road the brackets can be a good option, as long as the brackets are paired with the same lift height.

i personally prefer, and went with adjustable arms to go with my lift, like you mentioned, but i did it with the knowledge that the ride would be a little more firm due to the change in the angle of the control arms with the lift.
 
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Jesster58

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If the OP’s intention is to do serious trails, i agree completely. My point was related to road handling. The adjustable control arms will not be as smooth a ride as the brackets, since the adjustable arms simply give you back caster, and if using both sets, also allow you to recenter the axle. (You mentioned the downside about potentially hitting the brackets off-road, i would also say the other issue is that the brackets will give you a static caster setting.).

If it will be mostly a daily driver with just light off road the brackets can be a good option, as long as the brackets are paired with the same lift height.

i personally prefer, and went with adjustable arms to go with my lift, like you mentioned, but i did it with the knowledge that the ride would be a little more firm due to the change in the angle of the control arms with the lift.
thanks, this is an excellent comparison. I do expect that I am not going to be doing serious off-roading, more just trails and camping, so I am thinking the brackets are a decent option. I read a lot of good things about this so far, and think my first move will be the longer control arms as they are pretty cheap and appear to be fairly easy to install myself. I will post updates!
 

Terminex

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thanks, this is an excellent comparison. I do expect that I am not going to be doing serious off-roading, more just trails and camping, so I am thinking the brackets are a decent option. I read a lot of good things about this so far, and think my first move will be the longer control arms as they are pretty cheap and appear to be fairly easy to install myself. I will post updates!
Great thing about adjustable control arms, is that if you do want to do the brackets later, you can still use the adjustable control arms with them to dial in the caster that works best for you.
 

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Terminex

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They would work, but i think there are a lot better brands for the money. (i have RC track bars, and while beefy, they rust really easy, and the quality of the bushings isn’t great.).

I have the Terflex alpine IR arms.

Lots of great reviews on the metalcloak arms as well.
A lot better brands "for the money"...lists 2 that cost twice as much. The rough country are good for the money, personally we went with Rubicon express. Any aftermarket arms are an upgrade from stock.
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