Mopar 2in lift fixes

[mortsco]

Bought and installed the Mopar 2in lift on my 2018 Sahara. Looks awesome, drives like a shit wagon. Haven’t seen my plan to fix mentioned elsewhere so thought I’d start a thread.

I have all the problems mentioned on the forums: bump steer, rear bump body roll, high speed deadzone scaries, and generally a stiffer ride. (I’m okay with the stiffer ride part)

My plan is to first try AEVs drop brackets to solve the front end issues. If they add too much castor angle with the 2in lift lower control arms, I can give the stock ones a shot as well. Otherwise I’ll pick up some adjustable ones. I’m hoping the drop brackets result in a better ride than only correcting the castor angle with adjustable LCAs.

AEV’s drop bracket writeup:
https://www.aev-conversions.com/product/jl-geometry-correction-brackets/

For the backend bump sway (idk what to call it?), I’m planning to add the Terraflex track bar relocation bracket to level out the trackbar:
https://teraflex.com/shop_items/jl-jlu-2-5-4-lift-rear-track-bar-bracket-kit-axle-end

Curious if anyone has any experience with these products on a Mopar 2in lift or have other recommendations before I pull the trigger. Thanks!

Shameless Jeep pic:

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[Carlton]

I would pass on the AEV brackets. They only have one setting. Choose Rancho or Rubicon Express which have three different holes to select.

My suggestion:

Adjustable front track bar (Rough Country makes a solid one)

Rancho or RE geo brackets (I suggest the middle hole)

Rock Krawler front spring perches

I highly doubt the rear end is an issue. However, if you are convinced that it is, superlift makes a cheap bracket or Rough Country just released their rear track bar.

The dead zone is not caused by your lift. Pretty much all lifts will result in a stiffer ride. You may just not be used to a lifted vehicle.

 

[Jerrybizzle]

Front adjustable track bar if you don’t have one yet.
I did the rear track bar bracket from super lift.
Have an upgraded steering stabilizer as well.
Rides pretty good with the 37s for me.

 

[NPE102414]

I don’t know if you installed your lift or the dealer, in either case make sure everything is properly torqued. Bump steer is usually caused by a suspension component being loose or your track bar isn't running parallel to your drag link because you maybe got too much lift out of that “2” lift. Most lift manufactures underrate their actual height because they take into account you loading it up with gear, steel bumpers, winch, etc., Mopar is no different and is known to give over 3” of actual lift on certain jeeps. As far as the swaying your feeling in your rear end, check your rear control arms and make sure they are torqued correctly. I had the exact same swaying feeling about a week after I installed my lift because the flag nut on the rear lower control arm walked its way out while driving, fortunately my bump stop extensions kept the bolt from walking out as well. What wheels are those and what are the specs of you don't mind me asking? Are those 35’s? When I moved up from 35’s to 37’s I got a very slight “bump movement” I call it. It happens! I have all 8 adjustable control arms, complete steer smarts front end, and aligned perfectly so not much else I can do, some things are just a “Jeep Thing”. Here’s a few shameless pics, couldn’t help it lol. Yours looks great btw!!

 

[7tmotorsports]

I had my mopar 2 inch lift installed by my dealer prior to purchase. What I have noticed is the front end does not sit level. The drivers side is approx 1/2 inch higher than the passenger side. Is this normal? I checked the rear and it is sitting level. I also looked at the spring perches and it almost looks like the springs may not be seated properly..... any advice would be appreciated

 

[NPE102414]

I had my mopar 2 inch lift installed by my dealer prior to purchase. What I have noticed is the front end does not sit level. The drivers side is approx 1/2 inch higher than the passenger side. Is this normal? I checked the rear and it is sitting level. I also looked at the spring perches and it almost looks like the springs may not be seated properly..... any advice would be appreciated

How many miles have you driven on the lift? I ask because the springs will settle with time and mileage. Also, the fuel tank is on the passenger side and plays a role. Lastly, all springs just won’t sit the exact height, just the nature of Springs. I suggest you drive it and reassess after you get some miles under it. And unless it’s absolutely noticeable I wouldn't loose any sleep over it. One more question, how are you measuring the spring height? If you’re doing it ground to fender or ground to a fixed point on the body you’re not getting an accurate measurement. I would honestly be more concerned about your axles being centered. Try this method to measure each spring for accuracy.

 

[7tmotorsports]

Thanks for the input. It has only been driven about 200 miles since new so not much driving at all. My measurement was ground to the fender. I have the parts to reenter the axle and that is my next job lol.

 

[NPE102414]

Thanks for the input. It has only been driven about 200 miles since new so not much driving at all. My measurement was ground to the fender. I have the parts to reenter the axle and that is my next job lol.

No problem buddy, ground to fender can be misleading sometimes. Give it some time to settle and make sure you bring it back after 300 miles to get all suspension components re torqued because they can and will loosen up. I didn’t re check mine even though I new better and the nut walked out on my rear lower control arm when I was driving. Fortunately the bolt was wedged in place by the bump stop extension and didn’t come completely out.

 

[7tmotorsports]

Yes I definitely will as I saw your post. That is crazy how it worked itself loose. I've got 4 things to add first front and rear adjustable track bars, front geometry correction brackets and dual steering stabilizer which I plan on doing this week.

 

[NPE102414]

Yes I definitely will as I saw your post. That is crazy how it worked itself loose. I've got 4 things to add first front and rear adjustable track bars, front geometry correction brackets and dual steering stabilizer which I plan on doing this week.

I would get a good quality set of adjustable lower control arms and ditch the geo brackets. Also, skip the rear track bar, your probably not very likely kicked out enough to warrant the time and cost or a rear track bar. Skip the Rancho junk dual SS and get a get a falcon adjustable. Worth its weight in gold, but pricy. This is just my opinion and what I would do in your shoes. Definitely do the front track bar and instead of the rear track bar maybe swap out that tooth pick stock tie rod. I am extremely partial to Steer Smarts and Teraflex so that’s where I would guide you. Get a track bar with a pinch collet not a jam nut, you’ll thank me later. A couple pics of my fron’t end.

 

[7tmotorsports]

The Mopar lift springs are side specific the passenger side springs are 1/2” taller , make sure you have them on the right side.

Yes that was the first thing I checked!

 

[7tmotorsports]

I would get a good quality set of adjustable lower control arms and ditch the geo brackets. Also, skip the rear track bar, your probably not very likely kicked out enough to warrant the time and cost or a rear track bar. Skip the Rancho junk dual SS and get a get a falcon adjustable. Worth its weight in gold, but pricy. This is just my opinion and what I would do in your shoes.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Roky]

Yes that was the first thing I checked!

If the lean doesn’t settle out, you can get some rock krawler rear coil spring correction isolators. The passenger side is a half inch higher, they work great.

 

[7tmotorsports]

If the lean doesn’t settle out, you can get some rock krawler rear coil spring correction isolators. The passenger side is a half inch higher, they work great.

Thanks for the info!

 

[mortsco]

I don’t know if you installed your lift or the dealer, in either case make sure everything is properly torqued. Bump steer is usually caused by a suspension component being loose or your track bar isn't running parallel to your drag link because you maybe got too much lift out of that “2” lift. Most lift manufactures underrate their actual height because they take into account you loading it up with gear, steel bumpers, winch, etc., Mopar is no different and is known to give over 3” of actual lift on certain jeeps. As far as the swaying your feeling in your rear end, check your rear control arms and make sure they are torqued correctly. I had the exact same swaying feeling about a week after I installed my lift because the flag nut on the rear lower control arm walked its way out while driving, fortunately my bump stop extensions kept the bolt from walking out as well. What wheels are those and what are the specs of you don't mind me asking? Are those 35’s? When I moved up from 35’s to 37’s I got a very slight “bump movement” I call it. It happens! I have all 8 adjustable control arms, complete steer smarts front end, and aligned perfectly so not much else I can do, some things are just a “Jeep Thing”. Here’s a few shameless pics, couldn’t help it lol. Yours looks great btw!!

Jeep looks great! Seems like 37s are the way to go for rubicons with the 2 inch lift, 35s for sport or Sahara.

I have 35 inch KO2s and fuel d667s with 4.5in backspace.

I checked all control arm bolts and everything is solid. Ended up installing the Teraflex rear track bar bracket because it won’t clash with a rear diff cover, like some of the other options. The bracket seems really solid, only downside is having to drill two half inch holes in the stock bracket to reinforce the new one.

So far seems like the rear bump sway issue is resolved. The track bar is much closer to level than before.

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