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Metalcloak ball joints

Headbarcode

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I've had great results using Loctite when rebuilding transfer cases with spun bearings. (aluminum cases with high heat cycles & lubricant). I'm confident I could seat worn tapered ball joint pockets with these.

Loctite®680
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_680.html

Loctite® 660
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_660.html
I've also used these products. They're good for slight irregularities in light press fits, like bearing race and seal journals. I personally wouldn't use it on wallowed out knuckle tapers or the straight bored holes in the inner C's.

The nuts for the ball joint stems are only there to dissuade unwanted movement from starting. The condition of the taper itself is what dictates how long that friction joint will last after being put back into service. A properly fit and set taper can withstand a substantial amount of operating and impact forces. On the other hand, a wonky fit will never set, regardless of how much the castle nut gets over torqued. A cured liquid will mold itself to the contours of the ball joint stem, but won't do anything towards setting the taper. Even a hair of movement in that joint will lead to premature wear and failure, and it won't take long in this specific case.

Similar premature wear and failure will occur if the ball joint housings don't have a properly sized and continuous straight bore to press into. Unlike the light press fit of a bearing race in an aluminum case, a steel bushing housing in a ductile iron axle requires an interference fit. Too little of interference will jeopardize holding strength which could lead to unwanted movement, this premature wear and failure. Too much interference can potentially lead to stress cracking the iron or compressive damage to the ball joint, depending on which one is more resilient.

When not in use, a bearing race in an aluminum case is only under the load of the weight of the shaft assembly. In use, it will see gradual increases of load due to the gear mesh wanting to spread opposed shaft assemblies. The Loctite only has to fill in the air gaps, created by small dimensional irregularities, and buck up against the outer race to prevent it from spinning. If the spun race doesn't mangle the case, the Loctite has a strong chance of extending the service life to vehicle retirement, without the cost of replacing the whole case. I personally never saw a job return to the shop that had anything to do with that specific repair.

On the other hand, a ball joint pressed into the inner C and its set taper in the knuckle is under the directional force of roughly a quarter of the vehicle weight when parked. In use, those 2 important structural friction joints will see increased weight forces every time the suspension compresses, along with a wide range of much higher impact forces. Nothing will stand up to that better than proper continuous dimensions of the parent material. Any foreign materials used in those structural joints will inevitably become the starting point to unwanted movement, thus premature wear and failure. A cured liquid just simply doesn't provide the same compression resistance as the parent material.
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mnjeeper

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I can’t speak to the new MC bjs but dynatrac cost 150. 00 to rebuild uppers /lowers both sides. That’s 75.00 a wheel, your not gonna replace them that cheap… So even if you do this once it’s worth it, especially sparing the aggravation of pulling them. To me that’s worth it by itself…. I do all my own work so it might not matter as much to the ones who take their rigs to a shop……
Thing is, The $150 rebuild is the same cost as synergy ball joints. Still that steep entry point. Probably a better product, but how much better?

One of my duties, over a lot of years, at a heavy equipment repair shop was being the in house machinist. Every time a pressed joint is disturbed, there's a very small loss of dimension, and that results in a lighter fit on each consecutive go around.

The knuckles themselves can potentially last longer than several sets of ball joints, because they only house the tapered holes for the ball joint stems. The only way to damage those tapers is if the nuts loosen up enough to allow the tapers to unseat, allowing movement between the ball joint stem and the knuckle tapers. This movement will quickly wallow out those aluminum tapers. Even ductile iron knuckles will wallow, it'll just take a bit longer. Knuckles and ball joints can easily be replaced.

What can't easily be replaced are the inner C's that are welded to the axle tubes. Those are what house the bored holes that the ball joint housings get pressed into. Those bores will most definitely not survive more than a couple of pressings before losing too much holding dimension. That's why some manufacturers provide knurled ball joint housings, which are only used as a last ditch effort when the standard smooth housings don't provide enough holding power.

When I did a front end overhaul on my JLUR about 1.5 years ago, I opted for the Dynatrac HD's. Not only are they rebuildable, but they are also constructed from high quality materials and are greaseable.
Good info here also, appreciate it. Especially since I wasn't sure the point to the knurled versions, now I know.

Mentally, for me this is a smaller version of the RCV axle issue. If I spend $700 here, and $700 or so on steering, and $3900 on shafts f/r to beef up stock axles...I'm at $5300 in. Stock axles will sell for $4K. That's halfway to tons, without the obvious regraring. I don't want to go that direction...at least not for a long time. I personally plan to see how long things take to wear, and what if anything breaks. If anything, I think rebuildable ball joints might be the thing I would spend on if other things aren't breaking. I did learn enough from this thread to see that. Every situation is different, but I do plan to watch this a bit and see how often/regularly people are having this issue and compare to my use. I also have a bit of a benefit of low miles. Almost 2.5 years and I am under 9K miles. I'll stop rambling now...but I did learn some, thanks for that.
 

Roky

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Thing is, The $150 rebuild is the same cost as synergy ball joints. Still that steep entry point. Probably a better product, but how much better?
Yeah, rebuild in place is what it’s all about for me, ymmv…….
 

mnjeeper

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Yeah, rebuild in place is what it’s all about for me, ymmv…….
Yea, the comment on the inner C being a weak point does make me want to lean that way.
 

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Yea, the comment on the inner C being a weak point does make me want to lean that way.
Just to clarify for other readers that come along. The inner C's aren't weak points in themselves. It's just the unavoidable nature of their interference press fit bores to lose dimension every time a ball joint is pressed in and out. After a couple of ball joint replacements, the last ditch effort knurled versions become a requirement for proper holding strength.

After that, the inner C's need to either be replaced or prepped, built up with welding rod, and line bored back to the original dimension. I've done a lot of lineboring, and it's not cheap and it can take longer to do than replacing the whole inner C.
 

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mnjeeper

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Just to clarify for other readers that come along. The inner C's aren't weak points in themselves. It's just the unavoidable nature of their interference press fit bores to lose dimension every time a ball joint is pressed in and out. After a couple of ball joint replacements, the last ditch effort knurled versions become a requirement for proper holding strength.

After that, the inner C's need to either be replaced or prepped, built up with welding rod, and line bored back to the original dimension. I've done a lot of lineboring, and it's not cheap and it can take longer to do than replacing the whole inner C.
I can't tell why you didn't explain again that they are the weak points 😂
 

sherpaJL

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I've also used these products. They're good for slight irregularities in light press fits, like bearing race and seal journals. I personally wouldn't use it on wallowed out knuckle tapers or the straight bored holes in the inner C's.
agreed, depends on the extent of the damage. loctite won't do much on thrashed knuckles
 

mtbjeep

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MC is running a V day sale. My BJs are getting sloppy. I will talk to the wife about getting new BJs on V day.

(yes this post is dripping with puns)
So much fun and inappropriate stuff to stay to this!. My poor 6 year old brain is going to meltdown!!!
 

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They also are better built than other brands to begin with. So there’s that. The real problem with pressing ball joints in and out repeatedly is wear on the knuckle. Rebuilding them in vehicle saves that wear.
My Jeep may be different than the one's you work on. The ball joints press into the axle housing yoke.
 
 



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