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Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

andrei

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As of now I have zero shifting issues. Just the slight creeping when first putting into gear and that annoying noise when i press and release the clutch pedal after the jeep is warmed up. Not sure I want to do anything to it with under two weeks until we head out on our 2-3 week trip.
Slight creep is because clutch is not fully disengaged. You have mentioned applying more of "the magic grease" and i assumed that is to alleviate the creep you are experiencing.
If you think that clutch is not fully disengaging because of not enough lubrication on guide causing too much friction with TOB, doing what i have suggested will yield positive result and your creep should disappear.

Obviously with caution and mindful of your planned adventures
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andrei

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Here's the latest update on mine. Unfortunately, after 2 days I'm locked out of 1st/reverse and now 2nd gear. So hoping to get this resolved soon so I can get the Jeep back on the road again. It was a nice 2 days though of getting to drive it again. Now it will stay parked until the transmission can get dropped again.
Just read your post, our shifting experiences are identical now after using dry lube, and you described it very well in your words:

" I could not go into 1st or reverse from a stop. Today it was shifting even worse. Now I'm locked out of 2nd as well. The most consistent way to get going I've found is to put it in 4th, then neutral, then over to 1st then go. Sometimes if you hit the wall in 1st you can pull back slightly and then it will go in. That's not very consistent though. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get that to work. "

If for what ever reason 4th decided to give me a hard time before I figure this out, I will be completely locked out of all gears.
 

gek

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Okay, do you have any more information ACT diagnostic?
I am doing my best not to shit on this "wrong grease" theory, but when it is being thrown around as a solution, on my end that opens a can full of questions that are begging to be asked.

Too much and wrong lubrication has been mentioned
How much is too much?
  • How does one person measure it and another replicate it?
  • If too much is a problem, then not enough must also be a problem — so how little is "not enough"?
  • What is caused caused by too much grease? What about not enough?
What makes wrong grease a wrong grease?
  • Viscosity?
  • Lubricating properties?
  • Its behavior under heat or over time?
  • See how much loaded is into that one simple statement? If it is viscosity and lubricating, well guess what a mixture of dirt + grease does? Or even worse, friction dust from the clutch + grease. IF one grease is so wrong, why is it not wrong for the first 7000 - 15000 miles before it fails and causes issues?
The list of questions can be expanded way further. I will throw this one last thing in here just to get all your gears spinning:
IF "wrong grease" was used and it was doing its job well for 10000 miles, it means that over time its properties degraded and now it fails to meet the demand of the task. I will tell you a little secret, all grease wears out, becomes contaminated and loses its properties over time, there no magic grease out there. Even ACT supplied mystical purple unicorn will do the same.

So with that said, how many more times will you all going to pull the transmission and reapply “the right grease” before realizing the issue might not be the grease at all — but the design itself?

The problem is not in the complexity of the situation, It is not a rocket science. Problem is that the answer is to vague, it does not address anything. It is equivalent to someone responding to you with nonsense, and then trying to make you feel stupid for not understanding the nonsense, because they don't know the answer and are refusing to admit it.
The issue with wrong grease was the normal grease that some shops use loses its lubrication properties as it gets more and more clutch material in it. It seems to get sticky, which is the opposite of what you want. Not all grease is created equal.

As far as too much grease and not enough grease, I have no idea where that is coming from or where it was said. Just give it a good coating and it should be fine. That's what I did.
 

BHank0688

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Slight creep is because clutch is not fully disengaged. You have mentioned applying more of "the magic grease" and i assumed that is to alleviate the creep you are experiencing.
If you think that clutch is not fully disengaging because of not enough lubrication on guide causing too much friction with TOB, doing what i have suggested will yield positive result and your creep should disappear.

Obviously with caution and mindful of your planned adventures
I think my annoying noise might be caused by not enough grease on the throwout bearing sliding surface(assuming it’s not hydraulics). So far it is just an annoyance that I haven’t done much to fix since I don’t have any driving issues. The creep is always present, the noise is only after the vehicle warms up. The creeping forward I’m questioning if the disc is sticking just slightly and causing the issue. It will only creep for a split second. And I can rev the motor after and no movement in any gear. Without letting off the clutch pedal and shifting into any gear any amount of times it will not move. Once I release the pedal and press it again and go to put into any gear slight creep again. The creep is so minor I’ve had it up on jack stands and can hold the back tire by hand from the driver seat (2 door jeep) and stop the tires from ever moving, but can feel a little force.
 

andrei

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The issue with wrong grease was the normal grease that some shops use loses its lubrication properties as it gets more and more clutch material in it. It seems to get sticky, which is the opposite of what you want. Not all grease is created equal.

As far as too much grease and not enough grease, I have no idea where that is coming from or where it was said. Just give it a good coating and it should be fine. That's what I did.
All grease will lose lubricating properties with enough contamination in it.
No grease has mystical self cleaning or contamination resisting properties, once it is mixed it is mixed.
Post #664, 6th photo down, splines covered with clutch dust

Just saying, that is a whole lot of nonsense.
Not directed at you.
 

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gek

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All grease will lose lubricating properties with enough contamination in it.
No grease has mystical self cleaning or contamination resisting properties, once it is mixed it is mixed.
Post #664, 6th photo down, splines covered with clutch dust

Just saying, that is a whole lot of nonsense.
Not directed at you.
No one said it is self cleaning, just that some grease handles the contamination better than others. As I said before, not all grease is created equal.
 
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SadRobot

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Just read your post, our shifting experiences are identical now after using dry lube, and you described it very well in your words:

" I could not go into 1st or reverse from a stop. Today it was shifting even worse. Now I'm locked out of 2nd as well. The most consistent way to get going I've found is to put it in 4th, then neutral, then over to 1st then go. Sometimes if you hit the wall in 1st you can pull back slightly and then it will go in. That's not very consistent though. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get that to work. "

If for what ever reason 4th decided to give me a hard time before I figure this out, I will be completely locked out of all gears.
Yeah I read your post about trying dry lube but I think it was after the clutch was already back in. So my hope is by removing that graphite lubricant and going back to ceramic it will go back to shifting like normal.
 

andrei

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No one said it is self cleaning, just that some grease handles the contamination better than others. As I said before, not all grease is created equal.
What does it mean "handles better"?

By how much?" In our case, how many miles are we talking before it has to be replied again in order to prevent the issue from coming back?

Past the certain point of contamination, what grease is being used is irrelevant, because friction/resistance from contamination is the deciding factor.

"not all grease is created equal" - obviously, how is that applicable here? What data can i use from your statement to get me to the solution and make everyone happy?
 

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What does it mean "handles better"?

By how much?" In our case, how many miles are we talking before it has to be replied again in order to prevent the issue from coming back?

Past the certain point of contamination, what grease is being used is irrelevant, because friction/resistance from contamination is the deciding factor.

"not all grease is created equal" - obviously, how is that applicable here? What data can i use from your statement to get me to the solution and make everyone happy?
I get your frustration, but fuck dude. No one has any specific data. We all have the same info as everyone else here. There is no definitive number because every one drives different. All we can do is all share our stories so we can try to put the pieces together.

Currently it seems like the purple grease works better. It also seems like the slave cylinders tend to go bad and let air in. It also seems to happen regardless of what brand clutch you have. I'm sorry there is no definitive solution for you, but there isn't one for anyone else either.
 

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I also have ACT, but there are just as many who are complaining about CenterForce. One guy ditched his SouthBend after just 400 miles (and they copied OEM). One guy had McLeod fail its hydraulic throw out almost immediately.

Do they all suck? Doubt it. Something about the JL setup makes this all too complicated. Cable shifter, shared master cylinder, dry lube, no pilot, etc. This shit was figured out 80 years ago! Ugh.

What I can’t find is data on CF’s newish hydraulic throw out solution. I hate the idea of that failing and leaking inside the bell housing, but am intrigued by the idea of completely redoing the hydraulics.

This sucks. I’ve had my Jeep 7 years and it’s in awesome shape with low mileage. Loaded with options it was “only” $44k back in 2018. I realllly don’t want to pay today’s prices for something else, and realllly don’t want an automatic.

I’d invest another $2-3k for the latest CF solution *if* I had confidence it’d solve the issues, but I don’t.
I was having issues of either not being able to get into gear (1st and reverse) where it felt like I was hitting a wall or 1st or reverse would stick and I had to give a strong pull to get it out of gear as the clutch pedal seemed to do nothing. I took it to a shop and they determined that the previous shop had used Red N' Tacky and it was causing sticking and the shift fork wasn't engaging properly. The shop talked to Centerforce and I purchased the hydraulic throw out bearing. The difference is amazing and it is a joy to drive. The clutch pedal engagement is smooth, linear, and consistent in the take up point. I wish they had the hydraulic throw out bearing when I bought the kit back in early 2023.
 

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andrei

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I get your frustration, but fuck dude. No one has any specific data. We all have the same info as everyone else here. There is no definitive number because every one drives different. All we can do is all share our stories so we can try to put the pieces together.

Currently it seems like the purple grease works better. It also seems like the slave cylinders tend to go bad and let air in. It also seems to happen regardless of what brand clutch you have. I'm sorry there is no definitive solution for you, but there isn't one for anyone else either.

Exactly, that is why i asked the one who have worked with ACT directly to resolve this issue and hopefully they can share exact diagnostic provided by ACT.

ACT said wrong grease was used, beautiful, my notepad is out and they have my full undivided attention. Now let see if ACT actually identified and addressed the problem OR spewed 1st semi-related good sounding answer out of his ass just so he could be left alone.

Blaming wrong grease is easy. Wipe it off old coat, apply new coat, and come back here to share your great experience... until 10000 miles later you are back here again, complaining about the same thing.
 
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I was having issues of either not being able to get into gear (1st and reverse) where it felt like I was hitting a wall or 1st or reverse would stick and I had to give a strong pull to get it out of gear as the clutch pedal seemed to do nothing. I took it to a shop and they determined that the previous shop had used Red N' Tacky and it was causing sticking and the shift fork wasn't engaging properly. The shop talked to Centerforce and I purchased the hydraulic throw out bearing. The difference is amazing and it is a joy to drive. The clutch pedal engagement is smooth, linear, and consistent in the take up point. I wish they had the hydraulic throw out bearing when I bought the kit back in early 2023.
Did they use grease at all with the CFII kit? I've been trying to find any kind of install video or instructions on that. I had been told that they recommend the dry moly lube for the CFII.

Of the CFII kits I've read a lot of good things about the hyrdaulic throwout bearing with the only negative being if something fails the transmission has to get dropped again of course.
 

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Did they use grease at all with the CFII kit? I've been trying to find any kind of install video or instructions on that. I had been told that they recommend the dry moly lube for the CFII.

Of the CFII kits I've read a lot of good things about the hyrdaulic throwout bearing with the only negative being if something fails the transmission has to get dropped again of course.
I wasn't there for the removal of the shift fork and plastic throw out bearing and installation of the hydraulic throw out bearing, but the mechanic spent plenty of time on the phone with Centerforce prior to installation. The kit comes with a new master cylinder at the clutch pedal (that may not be the proper term), a stainless line with heat protection on it, and all the necessary installation goodies. I had him save the vacuum discs so that I could bleed the system if necessary.

All I know is I love driving the Jeep without playing funny games with the stick shift to get it into gear. The best part is my wife no longer comments every time asking what is wrong with the shifter and she can focus on pointing out other vehicles on the road, pedestrians, how to park, etc.
 
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SadRobot

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I wasn't there for the removal of the shift fork and plastic throw out bearing and installation of the hydraulic throw out bearing, but the mechanic spent plenty of time on the phone with Centerforce prior to installation. The kit comes with a new master cylinder at the clutch pedal (that may not be the proper term), a stainless line with heat protection on it, and all the necessary installation goodies. I had him save the vacuum discs so that I could bleed the system if necessary.

All I know is I love driving the Jeep without playing funny games with the stick shift to get it into gear. The best part is my wife no longer comments every time asking what is wrong with the shifter and she can focus on pointing out other vehicles on the road, pedestrians, how to park, etc.
Ah ok I found some instructions on install and it says it comes pre-lubed with dry moly.
 

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…the only negative being if something fails the transmission has to get dropped again of course.
Which seems to be happening anyway…. Just sayin’ 😳
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