Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

[azwjowner]

Here is the CFII dry vacuum procedure. So if you don't have their rubber gasket then you can create something similar. I wish I had tried this before I gave up and towed it to the dealer.

Are you saying that as an alternative to all the complex bleeding attempts, elevating the rear of the Jeep, etc., you can just pull a vacuum for a long time and get all the air out? I would be tempted to get an electric vacuum pump and just run it for a day or two. Sounds so much easier.

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[SadRobot]

Are you saying that as an alternative to all the complex bleeding attempts, elevating the rear of the Jeep, etc., you can just pull a vacuum for a long time and get all the air out? I would be tempted to get a vacuum pump and just run it for a day or two.

Well the first thing we (I say "we" because I was moral support over the phone) did was pull vacuum from the slave cylinder and then do the pump the pedal bleed. I don't know if he ever ended up jacking up the rear. I did a lot of my bleeding that way but in the end I think all it does is trap air in the master cylinder since the slave and master are installed in opposite directions. Then no matter what you do you're fighting yourself on one end or the other.

If you can get most of the air out the normal way and get a pedal back I'd switch to the dry vacuum. Buy the Mityvac at Harbor Freight (don't get the cheaper Pittsburgh one). I'd try it 3 times like the pdf says. Drive it and see how it goes.

 

[fspalt]

I think you can rent a vacuum bleeder from autozone for free. I might give this a try. Maybe jack the front end up or park on a hill to get everything flowing uphill to the reservoir?

Well the first thing we (I say "we" because I was moral support over the phone) did was pull vacuum from the slave cylinder and then do the pump the pedal bleed. I don't know if he ever ended up jacking up the rear. I did a lot of my bleeding that way but in the end I think all it does is trap air in the master cylinder since the slave and master are installed in opposite directions. Then no matter what you do you're fighting yourself on one end or the other.

If you can get most of the air out the normal way and get a pedal back I'd switch to the dry vacuum. Buy the Mityvac at Harbor Freight (don't get the cheaper Pittsburgh one). I'd try it 3 times like the pdf says. Drive it and see how it goes.

 

[SadRobot]

I think you can rent a vacuum bleeder from autozone for free. I might give this a try. Maybe jack the front end up or park on a hill to get everything flowing uphill to the reservoir?

I'd try it flat first. In theory the vacuum should be pulling everything up to it.

Take my advice with a grain of salt though. I'm the one with my Jeep sitting at a dealer for over 20 days so what do I know really?

 

[Gator Overland]

@fspalt @SadRobot @azwjowner I found a video showing a “dry vac”‘method from early 2000’s recognized by Ford and GM, but is common for bleeding concentric (internal) slaves,
video link:
but come to find out now per @SadRobot posting of the centerforce method for their master/slave kit, it’s exactly the same process. I will have a full YouTube “How To” hopefully by the weekend on Gator Overland channel. I tried to upload a short clip of it, but it’s too long. Here’s a link to the Facebook post where I explained what I did.
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/19Za3pL8ir/?mibextid=wwXIfr
Steps:
-make sure your clutch side of fluid in reservoir is full
-find a rubber stopper (make a hole if needed)
-plug in your vac connector
-pull 10-15” of vacuum and let it sit (I left overnite 8hrs)
-Check for improvements and repeat as needed

 

[Duece McCracken]

Well, I have the new CF external hydraulics. Not sure if Im going to install today or tomorrow.

Going to do the shift cable reset, just in case.

Probably going to use a combo of Power bleeding and vacuum bleeding.

 

[melendez69]

Welcome. Curious if you have had an leaks at all. I'm still trying to determine if my clutch operation caused a leak or if the leak is causing my clutch to not operate properly.

On an unrelated note I just checked my dealer paperwork and they marked my Jeep down as an automatic and the official concern description is "Automatic transmission concern - car is leaking fluid". I did talk to the tech so he knows what is up and this is just what the Service Advisor wrote down because he doesn't know how a car works but still.......yikes.

I changed oil today & scanned all over the underbits... no leaks. No trace of anything on the inside of the skids or anywhere else.

 

[SadRobot]

@fspalt @SadRobot @azwjowner I found a video showing a “dry vac”‘method from early 2000’s recognized by Ford and GM, but is common for bleeding concentric (internal) slaves,
video link:
but come to find out now per @SadRobot posting of the centerforce method for their master/slave kit, it’s exactly the same process. I will have a full YouTube “How To” hopefully by the weekend on Gator Overland channel. I tried to upload a short clip of it, but it’s too long. Here’s a link to the Facebook post where I explained what I did.
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/19Za3pL8ir/?mibextid=wwXIfr
Steps:
-make sure your clutch side of fluid in reservoir is full
-find a rubber stopper (make a hole if needed)
-plug in your vac connector
-pull 10-15” of vacuum and let it sit (I left overnite 8hrs)
-Check for improvements and repeat as needed

I'm happy that we got at least 1 manual back out on the road this week. Maybe next week will by my week.

 

[SadRobot]

I changed oil today & scanned all over the underbits... no leaks. No trace of anything on the inside of the skids or anywhere else.

And you checked the hydraulic line in the engine bay as well, correct? Just trying to cover all the bases. I have high hopes mine is still a hydraulic issue but if you have no leaks at all then I'm stumped again.

 

[melendez69]

And you checked the hydraulic line in the engine bay as well, correct? Just trying to cover all the bases. I have high hopes mine is still a hydraulic issue but if you have no leaks at all then I'm stumped again.

Yes, ma’am…. When I change the oil, I scan the engine bay for anything shiny or wet-looking…. Dry as can be under the hood as well.

 

[SadRobot]

Yes, ma’am…. When I change the oil, I scan the engine bay for anything shiny or wet-looking…. Dry as can be under the hood as well.

Did you remove the slave cylinder to check if it has a leak at all under the plastic boot? That's the only other place then if it were a leak situation.

 

[bjm00se]

On an unrelated note I just checked my dealer paperwork and they marked my Jeep down as an automatic and the official concern description is "Automatic transmission concern - car is leaking fluid". I did talk to the tech so he knows what is up and this is just what the Service Advisor wrote down because he doesn't know how a car works but still.......yikes.

I'm not sure I'd worry too much about that. It's possible the service writer is just an idiot, but it seems more likely to me that the writer has to pick from a limited set of "multiple choice" selections on the dealer service entry software, and "leaking clutch hydraulics" isn't one of the choices.

 

[SadRobot]

I'm not sure I'd worry too much about that. It's possible the service writer is just an idiot, but it seems more likely to me that the writer has to pick from a limited set of "multiple choice" selections on the dealer service entry software, and "leaking clutch hydraulics" isn't one of the choices.

Yeah I did get to talk to the tech because once I started talking about slave cylinders and hydraulic lines to the service writer and he looked at me like I had 2 heads and said hold on and went to go get the transmission tech that does all the clutch work. I'm pretty sure the tech and I are on the same page on what is going on. Whether or not he can get it bled correctly I just don't know and have to wait.

 

[Gator Overland]

Yes, ma’am…. When I change the oil, I scan the engine bay for anything shiny or wet-looking…. Dry as can be under the hood as well.

This is what mine look like from the outside of the slave cylinder on the bell housing… to my surprise. It was actually somewhat dry when I removed the slave cylinder, And then I pulled back the boot to reveal the weeping seal..

 

[melendez69]

Did you remove the slave cylinder to check if it has a leak at all under the plastic boot? That's the only other place then if it were a leak situation.

That’s about the only thing I hadn’t done…. I didn’t go that in-depth.

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