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Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

BHank0688

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I still get a rub groan, its a byproduct of a singlemass flywheel. As far as a creak goes, I'll have to pay attention on my way home.

The throwout bearing is most likely fine, but maybe the clutch fork is deflecting a bit under the pressure. Which may contribute to a poor feeling, but not sound.

Sound is sound for me, lol
The ratcheting feel in the pedal that goes along with the sound is more the concern. Once the Jeep sits for a while / overnight the clutch is smooth as butter and no sound. But 10 minutes down the road it’s back.
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BHank0688

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I know I’ve posted this before . But here it is again.

 

roaniecowpony

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I’d be curious what the force of springs on the act pressure plate are vs stock jl vs stock jl. My biggest annoyance so far is the creaking / ratcheting feel and sound the pedal makes when pressing and releasing the pedal only when vehicle has been driving for 10-15 mins. Sound seem to be coming from bellhousing to me. Putting the scope in there multiple times hasnt showed me anything. I’m really wondering if my issue is plastic throwout bearing with heat and extra force of act pressure plate springs cause it to deflect and make it collapse around the transmission shaft some. Had anyone heard of issues with a centerforce clutch with their internal hydro/ throwout ?
This creaking has been an issue for ACT JL clutches. Maybe other aftermarket higher pressure clutches as well. I know the owner of ACT was working on the issue. He probably knows the cause. Last I heard he was looking at the plastic bore of the throwout bearing and considering a metal bore to slide on the transmission snout. I haven't heard where the issue is currently.
 

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How many miles do you have on that setup ? Any other issues like gear lockout or anything?
30,000 on the current setup. Its acting up now. Hard to get into and out of 1/R. Pretty sure its the spline again.

I am talking with CF about the next thing to try.
 

BHank0688

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This creaking has been an issue for ACT JL clutches. Maybe other aftermarket higher pressure clutches as well. I know the owner of ACT was working on the issue. He probably knows the cause. Last I heard he was looking at the plastic bore of the throwout bearing and considering a metal bore to slide on the transmission snout. I haven't heard where the issue is currently.
I’d be interested in keeping the external slave and clutch fork setup but getting rid of all the plastic. Or really I’d most likely be willing to drop the transmission again to go to an all metal throwout bearing if someone would make one.
 
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SadRobot

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I know I’ve posted this before . But here it is again.

Yeah mine started doing that again after about 1k miles of most recent re-install. As long as I don't get lock out I'm ok with it though.
 

BHank0688

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Yeah mine started doing that again after about 1k miles of most recent re-install. As long as I don't get lock out I'm ok with it though.
I agree. If I knew / or even remotely thought this would just be how it is forever I’d be fine with it. Something tells me it’s the sound of something bad to come though.
 

andrei

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Could the tire size and or gear ratio (diff) potentially be a factor in what causes all of these shifting issues. Increasing the tire size and lowering the diff gear ratio is going to put more torque and stress on the clutch. Overtime could this be a contributing factor into what is causing them to not engage/disengage fully resulting in all these issues?


Thoughts?

No.

By lowering your ratio in difs, you are inherently reducing load on all the components before the difs (engine > trans > tc > dif > axle shaft > wheel).

Further more, the load on clutch will always be a factor of 2 things: engine force and and resistance force. These two will be proportional UP TO the power limit of the engine. In other words, regardless of everything else, it will come down to a single question of "can the clutch handle power output of the engine?". If yes, everything else is irrelevant and not applicable.

I don't know how much your set up (4.88s on 37s ) deviates from the stock, it is very likely that 4.88 with 37's is just a numerically higher 4.1 with 33's. You increased resistance with larger tire size, and compensated for it with lower dif ratio, that is it. So i will not criticize that, but understand that your upgrade HIGHLY LIKELY plays no role here.

And lastly, one simply factor that nearly completely nullifies your assumption - before release of the clutch and the shift, you (I HOPE) release the throttle pedal. Release of throttle equals what? And that what causes what? And if there is no what, then what? Exactly.
 

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OldGuyNewJeep

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Had anyone heard of issues with a centerforce clutch with their internal hydro/ throwout ?
I have this. First I had the ACT and gave up on it.

The CF II with *all* custom hydraulics (not the external JK ones with an extension, but internal slave/throwout, new line, replaced master) has amazing pedal feel. Zero crunch and linear engagement.

Does not completely solve 1st from a dead stop. My mechanic is very familiar with CF and said he throughly cleaned the input shaft and did not add any lube because CF comes pre-lubricated. That said, it way better than the ACT was. No lockouts (yet), and all I have to do at stop lights is bump the shifter against the 2nd gate. I don’t have to put in second, just bump the gate and the 1st is butter.

Full disclosure: I don’t have that many miles on it, yet. Maybe 2,000 over three months.
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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Oh, for you guys who experience lock out. I’m remembering from when I had ACT that lockout almost only ever happened when I’d stop the engine while in gear. If you get in the habit of shutting down engine in neutral I think you’ll find it happens less frequently. (Just putting gear after engine is off.)
 
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SadRobot

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Oh, for you guys who experience lock out. I’m remembering from when I had ACT that lockout almost only ever happened when I’d stop the engine while in gear. If you get in the habit of shutting down engine in neutral I think you’ll find it happens less frequently. (Just putting gear after engine is off.)
I always turn the engine off when in neutral and put it into gear once it's off so not sure if your situation was just a coincidence.
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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I always turn the engine off when in neutral and put it into gear once it's off so not sure if your situation was just a coincidence.
And even so you’d be stuck in gear when starting? That’s odd.

I threw in the towel on ACT when I started the engine, let go of the brake, then started rolling with the clutch pedal buried in the floor. Almost hit my garage wall, and that was the straw that broke the camel’s back.
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