Lets talk Anti-Seize

[roaniecowpony]

Don,
That's a great post and full of the same information I read to conclude zinc anti-seize was the proper anti-seize for a steel bolt in aluminum wheels. This parallels your use of zinc plated bolts.

And that link you posted to those wheels are the wheels I bought and are awaiting backordered tires for. By design, they don't require the maintenance conventional beadlocks require. But that in itself is the reason I'm concerned about long term issues of dissimilar metal reaction of those bolts. So, the proper anti-seize becomes more important because maintenance intervals will be much longer than conventional beadlocks.

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[roaniecowpony]

I will say I never got into that game. It was never ending and it got everywhere!

In some of the machine shops I worked in as a young man, there was a bit of tomfoolery with prussian blue die sinker's high spot marking grease. One tiny spec of that on a doorknob or drawer handle and it moved through the shop faster than covid in a retirement home.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

sooo... how can I get Nuclear Anti-Seize? ? ??

 

[roaniecowpony]

sooo... how can I get Nuclear Anti-Seize? ? ??

Go to work at 3 Mile Island and pilfer it. ?

 

[roaniecowpony]

sooo... how can I get Nuclear Anti-Seize? ? ??

That nuc grade stuff has nickel in it. That's gonna make a battery in aluminum applications and cause galvanic corrosion.

 

[OSCAR II]

Go to work at 3 Mile Island and pilfer it. ?

Or Salem/Hope creek, Oster Creek... been in a few. I'm sure mcmaster has it if you really need it.

With the exception of nukes and bakerys this is what just about every plant, refinery, power house specs.

 

[Vanburi]

Recommend or not, the STL8 is way out of my price range.

 

[OSCAR II]

In some of the machine shops I worked in as a young man, there was a bit of tomfoolery with prussian blue die sinker's high spot marking grease. One tiny spec of that on a doorknob or drawer handle and it moved through the shop faster than covid in a retirement home.

We had a guy that was ruthless with the stuff and loved to torment an out of town Forman. He pasted up the head band in his hard hat with gray stuff. Had a job meeting first thing in the morning with the plant manager, all the brass. He takes off his hat and has a big gray band across his forehead and in his hair. He was a trooper, I wouldn't have handled it so well.

 

[OSCAR II]

Recommend or not, the STL8 is way out of my price range.

Yeah I have no idea what warrants the price, you just have to get on the right job.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Bolting rings to aluminum wheels

Ask Google “Correct anti seize for steel bolts in aluminum”

The results are extensive. After reading many of these and other links I conclude that Nickle is the one to use. That Is what was recommended years ago for general use. The various links seem to confirm that choice.

BTW, do not forget to decrease the torque for lubed threads vs dry threads. Reduced torque by 30 %. An example is ARP who has their own anti seize and their own reduction %.

And in my other world of aircraft design cadmium plated nuts, washers, and bolts, are used dry to prevent galvanic corrosion with the aluminum.

Selected links that summarize anti seize application.

Don’t forget to watch the videos.

Loctite Anti-Seize types.

https://www.hisco.com/loctite-anti-seize#:~:text=Loctite® Heavy Duty Anti-Seize&text=Provides outstanding lubrication to all,F (1315°C).

== ==

Copper vs Nickel

https://blog.thepipingmart.com/metals/copper-vs-nickel-anti-seize-an-overview/#:~:text=Generally speaking, copper anti-seize,as well as stainless steel.
== =

Effective use

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/6-tips-for-effective-use-of-anti-seize

That blog is in error, IMO. Nickel and aluminum are incompatible in terms of galvanic reaction. But let me clarify. The nickel or even the copper anti-seize compounds will work on any metals if the grease protects the metals from the environment of moisture and oxygen. That may be why people have reported breaking off beadlock bolts even though they used an anti-seize compound. Possibly, they didn't use a compound containing the correct sacrificial metal (zinc) and they got moisture in the joint for long enough to allow it to work to provide the conditions needed for galvanic corrosion.

 

[Old Jeeper]

Don,
That's a great post and full of the same information I read to conclude zinc anti-seize was the proper anti-seize for a steel bolt in aluminum wheels. This parallels your use of zinc plated bolts.

And that link you posted to those wheels are the wheels I bought and are awaiting backordered tires for. By design, they don't require the maintenance conventional beadlocks require. But that in itself is the reason I'm concerned about long term issues of dissimilar metal reaction of those bolts. So, the proper anti-seize becomes more important because maintenance intervals will be much longer than conventional beadlocks.

Go for it on those ICONs...I like everything I read and would not the hesitant to buy a set. Albeit I don't know the wheel strength, the Walker Evans I ran were rated around 4200 lbs IIRCbut they were Baja grade, which destroys the cheap wheels.

You can be old school and skip the anti seize and do a full fun man chun maintenance x 2 every year. I did it and as a result, I never had an issue in over 90k miles on those Bead Locks.

You got one chance to do it right the first time...

Will you do a report on those ICONs? would like to see your take on them, I have a 2024 on order and may make the jump, I am a bleeding-edge engineer.

 

[roaniecowpony]

== =
Do you really think broken bolts are caused by galvanic corrosion? There are many other reasons. Properly applied anti seize theoretically should prevent moisture at the faying surfaces. All anti seize compounds if properly applied will do that.
We were taught that in university, and taught that in the field, and by MIL standards.

Yes, certainly galvanic corrosion can initiate the conditions that lead to galling and/or locking the bolt threads. It has certainly been something I've experienced on fasteners. From my reading of the various manufacturer's recommendations, nickel is not recommended for aluminum by any maker of anti-seize I found.

That blog may be right. But, I'm using what the manufacturer's recommend.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Go for it on those ICONs...I like everything I read and would not the hesitant to buy a set. Albeit I don't know the wheel strength, the Walker Evans I ran were rated around 4200 lbs IIRCbut they were Baja grade, which destroys the cheap wheels.

You can be old school and skip the anti seize and do a full fun man chun maintenance x 2 every year. I did it and as a result, I never had an issue in over 90k miles on those Bead Locks.

You got one chance to do it right the first time...

Will you do a report on those ICONs? would like to see your take on them, I have a 2024 on order and may make the jump, I am a bleeding-edge engineer.

I'll do my best to report on the icon wheels. Be aware they are cast (356?) Chinese wheels, not forged, like your Walker Evans wheels likely were.

But the deal on the bolts is that Icon calls for anti-seize and from what I can see, the bolts have some kind of black wash type coating, typical of Chinese products. I guess I could take them to a plating shop (if I can still find one in southern Cal) and have them zinc plated like I'd do when rebuilding an airplane engine for one of my airplanes.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I lubed 2 wheels worth, 32 bolts total. Slow process, unpack the wheel from box, bag, and foam.

The yellow coating:
Grade 8 zinc plated alloy steel bolts are thru-heated and thru-hardened with a CR+5 zinc plating.
What you want for your wheels rings.
Not the ones with a black coating.

These are a unique innovation type of beadlock. The bolts are a proprietary configuration.

 

[Jtclayton612]

All this reminds me after getting them mounted at discount who didn’t have anti seize that they used I meant to go back and apply it. 12k miles ago, whoops

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