JLU Rocklander Build

[THAW]

Nice compressor install.

Regarding fuses, are you indicating you ditched the two 40 Amp ARB fuses for one 60 Amp?

Also, if you're triggering the purple ARB relay wire with a factory Aux Switch, you should swap out the factory fuse for a 2 or 5 Amp to protect that long small gauge purple wire.

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[SherpaJLU]

Nice compressor install.

Regarding fuses, are you indicating you ditched the two 40 Amp ARB fuses for one 60 Amp?

Also, if you're triggering the purple ARB relay wire with a factory Aux Switch, you should swap out the factory fuse for a 2 or 5 Amp to protect that long small gauge purple wire.

From what I could tell the compressor itself was drawing 40Amps so I assumed a 60 would probably cover my bases. Should I have done an 80?

Also good note on upsizing those fuses. Appreciate the help. Hard to find this info sometimes.

 

[THAW]

From what I could tell the compressor itself was drawing 40Amps so I assumed a 60 would probably cover my bases. Should I have done an 80?

Also good note on upsizing those fuses. Appreciate the help. Hard to find this info sometimes.

My guess is you can get away with a 60 Amp fuse most of the time. But it might blow under heavier use in more extreme conditions (higher heat and pressure and/or lower voltage), so be sure to have spares.

 

[SherpaJLU]

After doing so many projects on the Jeep, the one thing I haven’t done is just flex it out with the forklift to see how it's all “working”. I haven’t had any issues with it out on the trails but I hadn’t checked for rubbing, stretched lines, or general clearances. I could see that I wasn’t using the full travel on my shocks so I had a feeling I needed to lose some bumpstop spacer.

Another issue I am having is spring bow. I am not sure if this needs to be tended to or if it is just normal.

After getting the truck on the forklift, I found a few things.

1. I do infact need to remove roughly 3 inches of bump stop in the front. I was shocked there was still so much room with the Genright fenders.
2. There is a little bit of binding happening in the bottom misalignments on the shocks up front.
3. The coil bowing seems to be pretty dang bad at full compression. I cannot imagine this is good. Maybe someone here will have some advice.
4. I need to add a smidge of bump in the rear to keep the tires off the fenders. I am a little concerned with clearances when I go to 40’s with these fenders.

 

[Roky]

After doing so many projects on the Jeep, the one thing I haven’t done is just flex it out with the forklift to see how it's all “working”. I haven’t had any issues with it out on the trails but I hadn’t checked for rubbing, stretched lines, or general clearances. I could see that I wasn’t using the full travel on my shocks so I had a feeling I needed to lose some bumpstop spacer.

Another issue I am having is spring bow. I am not sure if this needs to be tended to or if it is just normal.

After getting the truck on the forklift, I found a few things.

1. I do infact need to remove roughly 3 inches of bump stop in the front. I was shocked there was still so much room with the Genright fenders.
2. There is a little bit of binding happening in the bottom misalignments on the shocks up front.
3. The coil bowing seems to be pretty dang bad at full compression. I cannot imagine this is good. Maybe someone here will have some advice.
4. I need to add a smidge of bump in the rear to keep the tires off the fenders. I am a little concerned with clearances when I go to 40’s with these fenders.

That spring bow is normal……this is mine at full stuff……

 

[Remorseless]

For the PRP seats - did you do anything to get them to play nice with the Jeep's systems (occupant detection/airbag) or just live with dash lights galore?

 

[Maverick909]

for the shock mounts check out metal cloaks outward bound shock relocation brackets. they recommended them with the long arm kit.

 

[SherpaJLU]

For the PRP seats - did you do anything to get them to play nice with the Jeep's systems (occupant detection/airbag) or just live with dash lights galore?

I moved the seat pressure sensors to the new seats and used the Tazer to turn off a few items. I still have an airbag light on the dashboard, and I have been experimenting with different resistors, trying to figure out how to get it to turn off.

for the shock mounts check out metal cloaks outward bound shock relocation brackets. they recommended them with the long arm kit.

This is awesome. I will have to get a set of these. Did a good bit of reading on them and really like what they were after with this one.

 

[Roky]

Love the build, Icon is legit…..
Just wanted to throw this out there….. Those MC brackets raise the shock bottom about 1.5” so it gonna decrease up travel and increase droop…. Depending on where your shock is sitting at ride height it may or may not make a difference to you….. I am running long travel shocks on a 3.5 inch lift so I didn’t want to sacrifice the 1.5” of up travel…..I opted for the MC relo brackets that don’t change the shock bottom elevation…..again, this is just a heads up in case you weren’t aware…..

https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-...0EOEE-pTJhBWjPDYFR8v04UVljOnKSowQLZTMYlfEcKTY

 

[Maverick909]

I moved the seat pressure sensors to the new seats and used the Tazer to turn off a few items. I still have an airbag light on the dashboard, and I have been experimenting with different resistors, trying to figure out how to get it to turn off.



This is awesome. I will have to get a set of these. Did a good bit of reading on them and really like what they were after with this one.

so far so good with them. went out two weeks ago to flex everything out on the trials and didnt have any issues

 

[SherpaJLU]

Wanted to officially share some updates here of a rear cargo system I have been working on. This is my first real CAD project and it's been to tinker with. Still needs a few adjustments after real world testing out at EJS.

This isn't a perfectly weather-tight compartment, but I wanted to swap that for "features". This is technically 3 separate "modules." A baseplate, enclosed sides, and then a load deck shelf that can come in and out quickly with knobs. It works with or without the top and the focus is giving customers a more functional space to work with for storage. The driver side has a cubby for packing in things like coats, recovery gear, or whatever you might need.

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