JLU pulling a travel trailer? No problem!

[ResqFE]

I am in the process of buying a Rpod 196 (3000 lbs) that may be towed with Jeep occasionally, primary is my Tundra. I rented a Rpod awhile back and saw 4 MPg climbing Interstate 15 out of LA area. Flat and level was good but expect to use the Tundra for those 7000' ft elevations.

Would love to hear any experiences towing the steep Rockies or Sierras.

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[Jgeiken]

So I just got back from a 2200mi round trip pulling this from Chicago to the Outer Banks (NC) and back. Weight is right at 3500lb. It towed pretty well stability wise. The RPMs stayed pretty high when we hit the mountains in PA (I want to say 4th gear at 65 MPH). This type of camper is absolute sail...
Kept it at 65 the whole way and averaged 9.8MPG. Not great, but not terrible considering. The mountains definitely cut the avg way down.
Temps never got outside of the normal range.
2” lift and 35’s. Factory tow package.

 

[Fuzzy Dave]

here is my setup....

running a 3/4 in spacer all around, 35's redarc brake controller and put air bags in the rear for when i need them.

tows suprising well when i need to pass semis on 2 lane roads..

 

[Fuzzy Dave]

and follows me on the trails

 

[CallMeJoe]

I have a 2018 JLUR with the 2.0 and AT. My trailer is a 2017 T@G teardrop by NuCamp in Oh. Wet, loaded trailer weight with generator is 1680 lbs as shown by CAT scale. I've added tons of options on the trailer to include diesel heater, electric furnace, dual awnings, Apple computer with 28 inch monitor running off of a PSW 12 to 110 Volt inverter, Timbren long travel suspension and a pintle hitch just to name a few. I pull it everywhere, day camping as a kitchen for fishing trips, general goofing off, trips from Wi to Ca, Moab, you name it. The 2.0 handles my trailer better than my JKUS (3.73 gears and AT) ever did. By far the best upgrade I've done for towing, both on and offroad, has been the Timbren suspension. It's amazing....

 

[RogueV]

Just drove to Durango from Houston to pick up an E Pro 19BH and had no issues during the 1,100 mile drive back other than the cross winds through west Texas! Camper held tight on the road. And weight distribution hitch really made the difference. Only issue was the soft top fluttering in the cross wind can make your knuckles tighten up though. Lol

Dry weight of the camper is about 3100 and loaded up with gear I am calculating it’s about 3400.

I weighted it on a Cat scale on the way back and attached are the results. I didn’t weigh the Jeep and trailer separately so the weights represent both the Jeep and trailer weights with weight distribution hitch employed.

what do you all think? Do these numerals look okay?

also wondering if you all have enough clearance for turn radius with the spare tire on the gate. I took mine off and put in the cargo area to be safe. Would prefer to keep on gate if possible.

thanks

 

[Fuzzy Dave]

Just drove to Durango from Houston to pick up an E Pro 19BH and had no issues during the 1,100 mile drive back other than the cross winds through west Texas! Camper held tight on the road. And weight distribution hitch really made the difference. Only issue was the soft top fluttering in the cross wind can make your knuckles tighten up though. Lol

Dry weight of the camper is about 3100 and loaded up with gear I am calculating it’s about 3400.

I weighted it on a Cat scale on the way back and attached are the results. I didn’t weigh the Jeep and trailer separately so the weights represent both the Jeep and trailer weights with weight distribution hitch employed.

what do you all think? Do these numerals look okay?

also wondering if you all have enough clearance for turn radius with the spare tire on the gate. I took mine off and put in the cargo area to be safe. Would prefer to keep on gate if possible.

thanks

might need to weigh it again....and make sure your front and rear tires are on 2 separate pads...

my rubicon axle capacitys are 3100 lbs front, and 3100 lbs rear...i think you had the front and rear tires on 1 pad which is why your numbers are skewed

 

[Fuzzy Dave]

might need to weigh it again....and make sure your front and rear tires are on 2 separate pads...

my rubicon axle capacitys are 3100 lbs front, and 3100 lbs rear...i think you had the front and rear tires on 1 pad which is why your numbers are skewed

so if your front axle weight which showed 5600 are actually total for front and rear axle you should be good....more than likely the 3300 was the trailer axle by itself

 

[RogueV]

might need to weigh it again....and make sure your front and rear tires are on 2 separate pads...

my rubicon axle capacitys are 3100 lbs front, and 3100 lbs rear...i think you had the front and rear tires on 1 pad which is why your numbers are skewed

Thanks. You are correct. I had trailer on one pad and Jeep (both axles) on separate pad.

next time, should I unhitch and weigh each separately or keep Jeep rear axle on trailer pad and Jeep front axle on separate pad?

 

[tmcarr]

Thanks. You are correct. I had trailer on one pad and Jeep (both axles) on separate pad.

next time, should I unhitch and weigh each separately or keep Jeep rear axle on trailer pad and Jeep front axle on separate pad?

Using CAT scales, the original weigh is $12, "Re-weigh" is $3. With no weight distribution connected, you may want to put Steer Axle on one pad, Drive Axle on the second pad, and Trailer Axle(s) on a third pad. Do the initial weigh, then; disconnect the TT and "Re-weigh" just the TV with Steer and Drive Axles on separate pads. Now you have the info necessary to calculate your individual weights.
Your Steer Axle weights should be similar. To determine Tongue Weight, subtract Rear Axle ,TT detached , weight from TT attached weight. To determine overall TT weight, add calculated Tongue Weight to TT Axle weight. TV weight will be the sum of Steer Axle plus Drive Axle (with the TT detached).
I'm sure a trucker who weights often can explain this much better, sorry it is so long-winded. Hope this helps.

 

[RogueV]

Using CAT scales, the original weigh is $12, "Re-weigh" is $3. With no weight distribution connected, you may want to put Steer Axle on one pad, Drive Axle on the second pad, and Trailer Axle(s) on a third pad. Do the initial weigh, then; disconnect the TT and "Re-weigh" just the TV with Steer and Drive Axles on separate pads. Now you have the info necessary to calculate your individual weights.
Your Steer Axle weights should be similar. To determine Tongue Weight, subtract Rear Axle ,TT detached , weight from TT attached weight. To determine overall TT weight, add calculated Tongue Weight to TT Axle weight. TV weight will be the sum of Steer Axle plus Drive Axle (with the TT detached).
I'm sure a trucker who weights often can explain this much better, sorry it is so long-winded. Hope this helps.

Great, thanks! That really helps. Will do this weekend when I head back out.

 

[RogueV]

Had another question...How are You all getting so much clearance from hitch?
I had to remove the tire and stick it into cargo area!

didn’t try to hitch with tire on but assume it would become a turn bumper if I left on.

 

[Jgeiken]

Had another question...How are You all getting so much clearance from hitch?
I had to remove the tire and stick it into cargo area!

didn’t try to hitch with tire on but assume it would become a turn bumper if I left on.

I have 35’s on my stock carrier and they fit fine. It looks tight but with the way it pivots it never makes contact.

 

[Badweissenbier]

I have 35’s on my stock carrier and they fit fine. It looks tight but with the way it pivots it never makes contact.

That sure looks like a short tongue on there

 

[_olllllllo_]

We bought and pulled a new Forest River R-POD 179 this weekend. I wanted to share this for those on the fence about buying or towing anything with alot of weight with a JLU. A few notables here:

1. The Wrangler tow capacity with 3500lbs.

2. The R-Pod is 2600lbs (dry weight).

3. I have a class 3 Curt hitch. (You can use class 2 but your square receiver will only be about 1 1/4 compared to the 2 inch that the class 3 is, but I got a good deal on a price match for a class 3)

4. We installed a weight distribution hitch for 2 reasons.
A. The Jeep doesn't 'sag' or go into a "V" when hooking up the RV. It stays pretty much even with the trailer.
B. The trailer stays in ONE place directly behind the Jeep without going all over the road.

5. I installed the "autowbrake" (spelled just like if you want to Google it) its wireless and installed on the trailer and NOT inside you jeep cab. This thing is awesome! Took about 20 min to install and calibrate.

I will admit, driving in the Smoky Mountains (there are some STEEP grades) I had my doubts for sure. The jeep never ever complained and the 8 speed auto trans was an absolute beast. It shifted when it was supposed to (no high revving for a long time) and the temperature stayed the same through out.

My gas mileage was about 20 MPG unhitched to 13.5 MPG hitched.

The jeep and its capabilities have totally won me over this weekend and for those wondering to get an RV, do it! (I was almost about to get a truck just for pulling because of the worries)

Here you can see that the weight distro hitch keeping things even (and again, no swaying on the roads)

Thanks for the great write-up and sharing your experiences. I am leaning towards an Off Grid Trailers Expedition 2.0, but will have to look at the R-Pod.

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