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JL Wrangler Wheel Alignment Specs - Toe, Caster, Camber

LazyJL

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It may be time for adjustable LCAs.
I wonder why the a difference, Has the Jeep been in a front-end accident?
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cosmokenney

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Right...I went a degree beyond 90 on the flat spot next to the diff and also measured at knuckle...if you have shimmy over washboard or potholes I recommend taking your front control arms and lengthening them another 1/4 inch at a time until it goes away...Don't be afraid of going a bit over 6 degrees every jeep is slightly different. good luck! Make sure your track bar is torqued and not moving back and forth either of course.
This stuff is all new to me, I assume you are adding length to the LCA to get 1 degree more positive caster? And one could also shorten the UCA for the same effect?
 

ejewels

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Whats the difference between "measurement specs" and "set-to specs"? The former seem more forgiving...
 

swampflyer

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Just an FYI the castor I found to get rid of all the shimmy in my steering wheels on bumps was around 7 degrees...the JLs love castor and the rubicons are terribly anemic stock. Add a littel spacer lift and it gets way worse...its the reason a lot of people get "death wobble" on stock JLs sometimes...I use some Teraflex alpine lower adjustable control arms because they use factory style clevite bushings and not flex joints...zero maintenance and no rattle or wobble over time.
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This may be a dumb question but you like 7 degrees of positive caster? And I believe that if the flat spot at the axle is 90 degrees, then you have 6 degrees caster. So you bring it in one more degree? I ask because I am getting a lot of feedback coming from my steering.
I read on the forum a while back some guy running in high 7’s and one 8 and the jeep drove perfect. No lift. Stock.
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