The second number is “degrees”, suggested as turn “x” amount degrees extra, after proper torque is achieved.This is great information. Thank you for posting, but for the torque values can you tell me the number after the "+" sign mean?
Thank you so much for this.Our great friends and sponsor (@Northridge4x4) maintain this list for our use:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/pages/quick-reference-chart
Thank you so much for the information.The second number is “degrees”, suggested as turn “x” amount degrees extra, after proper torque is achieved.
Those specs (other than the lug nut reference) are for a JK. Much of the JL hardware is different (mostly larger - i.e. shocks are 18mm not 13mm, upper track bars are 18mm not 15mm etc.)Our great friends and sponsor (@Northridge4x4) maintain this list for our use:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/pages/quick-reference-chart
From @JebiruphHow about the nuts on the terminals of the electrical bus bar next to the PDC?
Does anyone have a complete, updated list for the JL?Those specs (other than the lug nut reference) are for a JK. Much of the JL hardware is different (mostly larger - i.e. shocks are 18mm not 13mm, upper track bars are 18mm not 15mm etc.)
Nerds unite! I love this. Thanks for pulling it together.Nerd level achieved = 9.3
Lol
This^^^If you're doing the work at home, try SAE if you get some slop w/ metric sockets/wrenches. I've found a few cases where Metrics aren't a tight fit, and especially the lower control arms that are high torque fasteners, sure don't want to round off bolt heads at 190 ft lbsAlso if you swap out suspension components you will find a lot use SAE hardware versus metric. So you quickly end up needing both metric and SAE but note that some do cross over.
Also think through what you can/will tackle on the trail versus not. As a guy who just needed a tow home it has caused me to rethink what I carry.